[moose]

Anyone got any beta, or better still photos / videos of this.  I quite fancy having a local traverse to project, but I cannot see how this one goes at all - the initial section across Almost Pleasant looks particularly impossible.  Is there some knack / trick, or like all of the stuff on the back of the Calf, whatever the supposed grade, is it just very hard and unpleasant?!

[moose]

A bump.... but without much hope. 

That said, having looked again at this problem, I still have no idea how to climb a single bit of it...but I'm not sure that's a great loss.  I'd forgotten just how painful and horrible the back of the Calf is - that, despite living in Ilkley for the last 6 months, I hadn't felt any urge to visit, should have been a hint!  Still, any sequence beta would be appreciated  - be good to have the option of a perma-dry local project.

Also - any tall man's sequences for First Arete and Ringpiece?  Re Ringpiece, I can always get my LH on the arete or undercut, with my RH on the pinch, but I just cannot find a way to bump my RH up to the next hold (just below and right of the ring).  I just can't find any combo of foot positions that takes any weight off whilst allowing me to reach over.

[lagerstarfish]

It is some time since I did the traverse (easiest version), so I can't remember the holds/moves, but I'm sure that if I stood in front of it I'd remember some beta. I'm pretty sure that I won't be able to do much of it at the moment.
My folks live in Ilkley and I owe them a visit, so I'll give you a shout when I'm up.
I do remember that I used reach.

[lagerstarfish]

3 DNAs in a row leaves me with time to dick about...

just looked on YG.com at the back of the calf

The last part of the traverse is nice on it's own. Can't remember the foot sequence. Jump to the jug on BTB, get both hands into the big undercut/sidepulls pocket just R (crossed so LH is at R side of pocket). Then RH down and right to a side pull, re-adjust feet and go again with R (reachy) to the big peg-scarred flake (comfortably smooth compared to other holds). Swing feet out R and match hands then it's all over.

The crux for me on the full trav is getting round that bulge above the start to Almost Pleasant and then across to the jug on BTB - can't remember it at the moment

[moose]

Cheers - I had a look at the finish and just could not find a way to match in the high (~8-9') undercut - it only seems to take one hand (at its top RHS).  I tried crossing through into it with the LH (keeping RH on initial big jug) but it left me too twisted to get the thrust to pop for the finsihing sequence of RH go-agains on sidepull/flakes.   

Are you somehow managing to get both hands inside the high undercut pocket that's immediately next to the jug - both being at 8-9ft height?  Or are you climbing down from the high jug to a lower big undercut (one of the ones used on the V5 sitstart problems?).

[lagerstarfish]

Sorry, I can't remember. It's one of those problems that I used to do a lot, so didn't need to make a conscious effort to remember the sequence.

I think I stood high so that the pocket was easier to undercut, rather than trying to use it in front of my face.... I'll have to get back on it

[suggy]

At the start I use the good hold from 'almost pleasant' with ur L to reach to a large undercut (feet on the 'almost pleasant' hand-holds) with ur R, cross through with ur L to a good gaston/pocket thing. The next moves are quite height dependant. I use sloper for R, cross under to good undercut pocket with L, slap for the big jug R. Lots of ways of doing the finish.