[205Chris]

Good skills Cofe.

Went back in the afternoon as a mate was keen and unfortunately someone had broken the large flake hold on what I presume was Asylum Sika or Snappy duds, can't quite work it out looking at the picture I'm afraid. The hold has been left under the problem, not sure if anything can be done with it?

Balls  ! Hope it doesn't go walk about before I get a chance to have a look and try to sort. Was it in one piece? Can you figure out from the vid if it was the start flake on AS (the leftmost low flake, close to the left arete)?
If anyone else goes here soon can they stash the hold somewhere safe and PM me the whereabouts, thanks.

If I'd thought about it I could have picked the hold up for safe keeping - sorry!

It did appear to be in one piece though. It was a decent sized hold and more in the centre on the wall than close to the left arete if i remember correctly. It might be the flake above the 'k' of sika on the topo or it might be the thing you pull on with your right hand for the start.

Sorry for the vagueness but I only had a brief look at that side of the block.

[Scouse D]

Lovejoy, your problem is fine (and hard - I couldn't do it at all). The flake which broke is to the right so your sequence from the vid isn't affected.
Went this morning early and it was all a bit damp. Did monobulge from the mono not from low (my fucked hamstring makes lifting my left left foot high very tricky) Very good problem - thought the top out was terrifying but had no spotters.

[a dense loner]

Went out tonight n climbed the line straight up what basically looks like an inch to the left of snappy duds on topo but without the flake since I'm not a magician, a bit of a bastardisation on duds n sika really, we thought this was the obvious line on the face if that makes it any easier to picture. thought this was quite tricky 7b+ maybe 7c. The start holds on this feel like theyll snap if someone of cofes or scouses weight tries to pull on them so pls watch out. Also two trainers on the spinebreaking stump behind help with the last move!
Iain originally climbed mono bulge rh, his description to me ages ago, when we were stood in front of it was nothing short of pathetic. However the way he danced up it tonight left me almost breathless.
Having just watched vid n speaking to jonboy the broken flake is the starting heel on asylum sika.

[r-man]

Dawid told me he's pretty sure he climbed the two obvious front lines, but doesn't remember much more, and says good work for all the cleaning and topo making. He also said he didn't want to retro claim anything, but I think he's forgotten he told people years ago.

[a dense loner]

Ah but not even the mighty polish dave climbed it without the obvious huge flake, unless he snapped it off did said prob n then glued it back on

[Bonjoy]

Why does this thread have to be so confusing? 
R-man - Which 'front' does Dawid mean, the Mono Bulge side or the right hand side? I'd guess the former.
Dense - No wonder I couldn't find Iain's line before...

climb the wall to the right of it trending leftwards. So sit start n climb leftwards kind of on the prow but not underneath it

:  either one or both of you has altzeimer's .  Call me difficult, but how can a hybrid of a 7b and a 6b+ be both "the obvious line of the face" and a grade or two harder than the probs it shares holds with? Any chance you could explain it hold by hold (by all mean by PM if you like) cheers?

[a dense loner]

I pointed out that iains. Description was pathetic, n that was while we were stood there. He says he meant he just didn't use the mono, n he comes further round the right arete cos his lank is outrageous. As for your other point how cam it be harder? Your 7b is an eliminate not at all obvious, n my thing uses a huge flake that's no longer there, so now what ure askin is how can somethin be harder if u take away a huge hold? Madness. We both thought this was the only obvious line up the block.from sitting

[Johnny Brown]

I didn't think any of them were 'obvious lines' to be honest. Its exactly the kind of place where different folk see different things - my inital thoughts years back were that the only likely thing of worth would be going up with the mono without using the aretes. Monochrome made a lot of sense when I did it though.

[Bonjoy]

Thanks for the explanatory text message dense. It makes sense now, the broken flake is the middle one (foothold on AS and start handhold on SD) and you re-climbed Snappy Duds (what you did and Snappy Duds having identical start and finish points) without its broken start hold. Previously SD made a big boring slap to the top from the flake, obviously you now have to climb more to the left with a better harder sequence.
Like JB says the face has no well defined lines (except the lip trav). It's a bit like the Boston Mess face, lots of holds crying out to be used but some interpretation required to make sense of them. Mind you it seems like the hold eliminated on Asylum has fallen off so it's not actually an eliminate now !
Infact it sounds like the breakage may have improved the lines on the face in that AS and SD(or whatever you want to re-name it) now climb the block from defined start points but without other rules. In which case I'll not bother gluing the flake back.
I'll try and get over there to check it out soon and correct info on topo and pb.info.

The only remaining mystery is whether Dawid did Monochrome and Mono Bulge, or Mono Bulge and Mono Bulge RH; both of which could concievably be described as 'the two obvious front lines'?

[r-man]

The only remaining mystery is whether Dawid did Monochrome and Mono Bulge, or Mono Bulge and Mono Bulge RH; both of which could concievably be described as 'the two obvious front lines'?

Having seen your topo, he reckoned it was Monochrome and Mono Bulge, but said he would have to stand in front of the boulder to be sure.

[a dense loner]

Thank god 4that I'll prob be back tonight, just incase anyone wants 2 avoid the place

[dave]

The only remaining mystery is whether Dawid did Monochrome and Mono Bulge, or Mono Bulge and Mono Bulge RH; both of which could concievably be described as 'the two obvious front lines'?

Having seen your topo, he reckoned it was Monochrome and Mono Bulge, but said he would have to stand in front of the boulder to be sure.

Well the most important thing is monochrome ended up with a decent name, so I can rest easy.

[Bonjoy]

Had a look at the breakage today. As I thought, the start jug of Snappy Duds (clue in the name) had snapped off. No point gluing it on as the new sequence looks miles better, but have backed up the remainder of the flake so hopefully it's all rock solid now. Also rubbed some dirt into rock scars to make them look less grim.
All holds on Asylum Sika are unchanged and with the jug out right now gone it's totally uneliminate, result!
Do you want to rename your line Dense (by all means do, the original one was a throw away)? Does it have any rules re hands/feet in flakes on right, or use of start hold on AS? Let me know and i'll update pb.info.

[a dense loner]

Cheers for stabalising hold Jon uve saved me from doing a bad job 
No rules per se, I pulled on rh on broken flake lh below n left, both obvious, then straight up via 2 obvious methods. I used r heel on flake to right. Keep name as snappy duds I quite like it

[Yoof]

Was down there today, a good set of problems, with the majority too hard for me (at the moment). Don't know if anyone's noticed but the starting foothold of Monochrome wobbles significantly. I doubt it would change the problem massively if it were to go, but if people want to preserve it something should probably be done soon-like.

[galpinos]

Don't know if anyone's noticed but the starting foothold of Monochrome wobbles significantly. I doubt it would change the problem massively if it were to go, but if people want to preserve it something should probably be done soon-like.

Just came on to post the same. We were using the small scoop just above the hold in order to preserve what's there. Worth stabilising if possible I think.

[Johnny Brown]

I don't remember a starting foothold - massive shelf, left heel, off you go.

[dave]

There is a flake foothold at the bottom of the plinth, we noticed it was wobbly last summer. Easily avoidable but might leave an ugly scar if it goes. Probably just needs a dab of sika behind.

[galpinos]

There is a flake foothold at the bottom of the plinth, we noticed it was wobbly last summer.

This is the one, didn't realise it had always been wobbly, just assumed it'd deteriorated since this block became everyone's favourite boulder.

Easily avoidable but might leave an ugly scar if it goes. Probably just needs a dab of sika behind.

We thought the same.

[Drew]

what's the consensus on grade, been given 7B there but I recall Dave mooting 7B+ originally?

     for dragging up an old topic

Went out yesterday and did Monochrome. Awesome problem! I must admit I thought it was more like 7A. Thought it was a touch easier than Made In Sheffield.

I did it in a similar way to Nathan, but with less intermediate moves, and every move static. I did do the start slightly differently. Right foot shoved where the hands start from, and you can take both hands off and reach the good sloper with the left hand, and the mono with the right. Then left heel, and left hand straight to the good pinch, same right heel hook, but go straight to good seam, swing left heel back on, and go straight to top sloper/guppy. Finish the same. Or maybe I'm just getting strong and got my first 7B flash?

[dave]

It could just be cleaning up a bit now, plus the old morphic resonance? You're the first person I've heard suggest 7a though.

[Johnny Brown]

more like 7A... a touch easier... less intermediate moves... every move static... my first 7B flash

[Drew]

To be honest, it was probably in perfect nick yesterday after weeks of cleaning, and a strong wind cooling and drying everything. It also suits me pretty well. Maybe 7A+? I'd be interested in one of the early ascentionists getting back on it, and seeing if it feels easier after multiple ascents cleaning it all up.

[Johnny Brown]

Look, I find stuff totally piss all the time. The trick is to just to muster up a toothy grin, a wry shake of the head, and then take the grade.

[Drew]

The trick is to just to muster up a toothy grin, a wry shake of the head...

Just tried this in the mirror... I make it look a bit creepy...