I also thought that the indoor bouldering would address that. But it doesn't seem to. Can it? Should it?
Different folks are better at different types of probs/routes..
The gains are typically small and incremental.
Quote from: tomtom on June 15, 2011, 01:13:13 pmDifferent folks are better at different types of probs/routes..Yes, but I want to get better at fingery power endurance limestone...
I typically shy away from much less than half a pad indoors because my skin is very soft.
The reason I think fingers are a weakness are that my friends who I climb and train with mostly climb a plus grade harder than me on limestone routes. They burn me off indoors if the holds are small, however I can boulder harder if the holds are big. I can also campus more moves on jugs (get in!!!).
Quote from: shark on June 15, 2011, 12:23:05 pmThe gains are typically small and incremental. Whereas I'd say fingerboarding the gains appear relatively quickly
Give up trying to get to the top of problems, give up competing (with yourself or others) and focus on improvement.
I find the best combination is just to climb on rock as much as possible and supplement it with pure training (fingerboard, core etc.) and just forget about indoor bouldering. Climbing on plastic doesn't seem to make me any better at rock climbing or be that practical for working specific physical weaknesses. I hope that's of use!
As an aside, standing on scales and pulling with single fingers, adding the weight lifted for each finger comes to less than I can pull with 4 finges at once. Why is this?
Quote from: douglas on June 16, 2011, 10:18:06 amAs an aside, standing on scales and pulling with single fingers, adding the weight lifted for each finger comes to less than I can pull with 4 finges at once. Why is this?Synergism
Thanks. For me it's the opposite! Say I can pull 20kg, 30kg, 25kg, 15kg on isolated fingers. This adds up to 90kg. I weigh 75kg. But I can't hang from one hand!
8a/8a+.
Quote from: douglas on June 16, 2011, 10:26:59 amThanks. For me it's the opposite! Say I can pull 20kg, 30kg, 25kg, 15kg on isolated fingers. This adds up to 90kg. I weigh 75kg. But I can't hang from one hand!this has come up before and i think it was Serpico who said he had the same problem, i think it was solved by doing some weights targeted at the back. i did a search but cant find the thread to link to.
Quote from: slack---line on June 16, 2011, 10:23:22 amQuote from: douglas on June 16, 2011, 10:18:06 amAs an aside, standing on scales and pulling with single fingers, adding the weight lifted for each finger comes to less than I can pull with 4 finges at once. Why is this?Synergism"synergy: the working together of two things to produce an effect greater than the sum of their individual effects"Thanks. For me it's the opposite! Say I can pull 20kg, 30kg, 25kg, 15kg on isolated fingers. This adds up to 90kg. I weigh 75kg. But I can't hang from one hand!