[Footwork]

Second session on this today and getting close! Just wondering if it finishes up the headwall using the ear and the two finger pocket for the proper tick? Or does it finish at the break? I can get the two crimps but my foot keeps popping off when I try and go for the break

I had a look for DWR on search and found a grades thread. Feels pretty V7 to me, maybe because I haven't done one yet

[Control freak]

Finish up the headwall for the full tick - tho you shouldnt really fall off this having done the rest. Do you have your right foot in the flake under the roof for the move up?

[Footwork]

Cheers control freak. Yeah I get the left crimp, undercut with my right to get my foot on the flake and then go up to the right crimp. Guess I really need to stick as much boot as i can into the flake..  My left arm isn't very strong either..  It's gonna go!

[ShortRound]

So left hand on the crimp, right hand undercut - I then put my right toe into the flake and rotate my right knee so it moves underneath my right arm and points left. Once you've done that you have time to pause, use the little intermediate crimp on the right and pop up for the break. The top bit after that is fine as you rock up using the ear with your right hand with your left foot on the good crimp (where your left hand was) and into a little mono-ish thing for your left hand.