[shark]

Weight: 11.7-9

M. Noon. Comprehensive strength and fingers session. Eve. Shed bouldering till tweaked finger
T. Eve. Fingery campussing at Edge between belaying Poppy.
W.
T. Day. Endurance session on systems board (should do more of this).
F.
S. Tor with family. Dogged up Tin Of - felt beeter than last weekend. Took 4 goes to get thru PushUp then slipped by Revelations belay. Did a link to small roof then sacked it off and went to cafe. Eve Bike ride with Tom.
S. Tor. Morning. Good conditions. Dogged up Tin Of for warm-up felt ok. First go Crucifixion got straight thru PushUp and up into crux (at 30m) - fell cos got pumped. 2nd go thru Push Up first go and pulled over small roof put fell going for crimp. 3rd go waste of time so dogged up to retrieve QD's.

Need a change to recover mind and body and ideally (loose some weight). Left shoulder still a bit tweaky.

No more climbing or training until Rockover comp next Saturday with boys

[heelhookofglory]

Need a change to recover mind and body and ideally (loose some weight).

Get out on the bike. I find it ideal for when body/mind is tired from climbing.

[heelhookofglory]

M: 10 routes at Stockport AW including leading 3/4 of the way up the long back wall which is a PB!
T: Short recreational MTB ride. Then 35mm Repeaters: Set 1 – 7/3 Set 2 – 7/3 (25mm) Set 3 – 7/3 (25mm) 10mm Repeaters: Set 1 – 7/3 (4-finger) Set 2 – 7/3 (3-finger) 2 mins rest between sets and exercises.
W: 11km recreational MTB ride.
T: Chillin'
F: Very quick session at Cottage Rocks, couple of easy problems bagged.
S a.m: Hard session at Wright's and Ousal working Niche Trav Extension and Ousal Low. Felt best yet on both.
S p.m: Hard session at Awesome Walls; movement, long traverses and steep woody.
S: Mid-hard session at Wright's. Skin is really sore today but movement and commitment felt good.

Weight: 142.6 lbs (goal: 140 lbs)

[Muenchener]

STG: Overhanging pumpy 6b redpoint
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein.
     Overhanging pumpy 6b onsight
   Alpine multi-pitch in Oberreintal end of June
   250 (proper) practice falls (on rope) in 2011. Current score: 43
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl
Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp

M: Wall, Thalkirchen. Short bouldering session after work; not feeling strong at all.
T:  Bike to work
W: Boulderwelt group coaching session. Fun with heels / how to find cunning rests on steep ground.
T:
F: Wall, Thalkirchen. Short session, 7 routes. My steep 6b project has been taken down, nnfn. Onsighted a different non-steep (and very soft) 6b as consolation.
S, S: family hut weekend / active rest: easy hiking in Chiemgau, Bavarian Alps with kids.

[fried]

Too much work and niggling aches so...

Monday - Saturday  - Non-active rest.

Sunday - indoor session - climbed well, lots of new problems to try. Sometimes it's good to take a break. Shoulder stuff.

Weight - Fat

[nai]

Aims

thur - scraped my way up Daylight Robbery.  Did the usual trick of forgetting my foot sequence when pumped and needed it most.  Accounted for failure on RP1 but just managed scrape through and hold things together while one move from the jugs on the 2nd go.
Fri - core, pressups, on the minute deadhangs x17 - ran out of time to complete to failure, arms definitely had a few more reps in them. 

Half term this week so another slow week coming up.

[tomtom]

Stg 7 something on lime....


Wed: almscliff. First time on grit for c.6 weeks. Repeats of dwr, crux low trav, dreamland, Underhand, si's shut me down. Good circuit, not lost any grit skills during my lime period..
fri & sun: Rubicon. Usual problems usual failures.. Some micro progression on a bigger splash, leaving bigger tail as it hurts my lef elbow :-/

But a minor yyfy.. Scales said 11:6 yesterday.. New low..

[joe dobson]

My first post in the power club!

Aims for the end of summer
1. First font 7c
2. The F7c+ traverse at Longridge

Mon: Rockover with core and fingerboard session
Tues: Rest
Wed: MCC
Thurs: Core workout
Fri: Weighted pull ups and core session
Sat: Weighted pull ups
Sun: Rubicon (first time but skin really bad, got bigger splash but thats it) and more weighted pull ups in the evening

Mainly focusing on core and power training atm, i have a tweaked index finger so waiting for it to get better before i hit the finger and campius boards again!

[tommytwotone]

Right, back on it having sorted my troublesome shoulder out.

LTG - Still Font 7b
STG - Tick the Cliff up to 6c+

M - Depot session, good effort after long layoff, ticked plenty of V5ish stuff and got a steep V7
T - Regular Tues session substituted with "rest" - i.e. trip to the boozer for beer and darts. Not sure if darts counts as training.
W - Nowt
T - Depot for the bouldering league, flashed a good few of the tricky probs, got a few to go back for
F - Nowt, beer and curry in the evening
S - Rubicon - good session, ticked a good few of the straight up 6s, got shut down on all the 7s. Keen to get back.
S - Well needed lie-in, short run in the morning

Overall a satisfying week, great to be back on it but feeling at bit under par. The rest seems to have sorted out a good few of my other niggles, but short term think I need to do a bit more running and cut the ale down a bit.

[Fultonius]

Woops, missed this for a few weeks.

Previous week: DIY and nowt much else. (Resting dodgy finger for 2011 Trad Revival^(R) Trip

Last week: Due to the horrific forecast we sacked in our semi-annual trip to Pabbay and drove to Cornwall and camped near Lower Sharpnose. Quality week of Beer, Trad and Cornish Pasties!

Basically got loads of mileage in and went from wobbling up HVS/E1 at the start of the week to getting up Diamond Smile (E3) at Lower Sharpnose without too much difficulty. Awesome crag!

Sunday: Nipped to Dumby and was re-learning the sequences for Pongo Arete 7A+ and Mestizo Traverse 7B. Feeling surprisingly good on them so quite psyched for getting them re-climbed over the next few weeks :-) (One of my STGs)

Weight - a lardy 79.1Kg after too much Pasty/Beer consumption. 

[Luthor]

STG  - Get some sport route mileage in the low/mid sevens.
MTG  - F7c Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.
LTG  - font 7c & F8a

Mon     - rest
Tue     - WCJ Cornice. Got on the freemonster - felt bloody desperate!
Wed     - rest
Thurs   - Circuits session at the Works.
Fri     - Bouldering at the works
Sat     - WCJ Cornice. Got on freemonster again and did more some more moves (in isolation). Cant get through the crimpy bit near the bottom. Still feels desperate! Got on incapacity benefit a few times but failed to do a clean repeat, felt tired from week's climbing.
Sun     - busy / rest

quiet week ahead with family (half term) - but keen to get back on the lime on sat.

[Falling Down]

Denmark, London, Home & Kazakhstan with three dog walks, some half pissed press ups, a run and some pull ups sometime during the week.

Back to it this weekend.

[webbo]

Mon. Short session at Rockcity.
Tue. Another session at Rockcity repeating stuff.
Wed.Nothing.
Thu. Rockcity. Repeating stuff also managed one of the lank v4s
Fri.Nothing.
Sat.Visited the font of the North York moors Clemitts not bad did various stuff including a 6c+ and a 7a.
Sun.Watched it rain.

[cheque]

STG: E1 on big cliffs this summer- specifically Rock Idol in July. 6C.
MTG:  E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Rest.
T-Nothing.
W- Pleasley Vale. 3 new problems ticked. Feeling strong.
T- Rest.
F-Nothing.
S- On canoeing stag trip. 10 miles in canoe. Lots of food. Late night.
S- 13 miles canoeing. Dancing. Late night.

Only one short climbing sesh this week but it went really well. Canoeing was a nice workout.

[i_a_coops]

Another week of unhealthy pre-exam stress, icing foot and finger, and physio for my foot. Sporadic sets of pullups, finally doing 2 one armers on each arm again.

One more week on crutches, two weeks til I can hopefully take my foot brace off! Finger feeling improved too. Keeping the faith cha'mone

[tommytwotone]

Right, back on it having sorted my troublesome shoulder out.

Can you share the beta on that!

I think 5/6 weeks of total rest had a fair bit to do with it - that and the fact that I got a lecture on my posture from my physio so am making an effort to improve it (he says while hunched over the laptop...).

[chris05]

Goals (2011):

10 x 6C (4 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B

Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again

M: 3xDB complex, 4m run, core (500) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex, BM: pull-ups and one arm max hangs, core (500) & theraband
W: 4m run
T: 3xDB complex, BM: pull-ups and repeaters, core (500) & theraband
F: rest
S: Bouldering at the Churnet, managed to get the Nose done at Gentlemans
S: rest

An ok week although I should have made it to the wall as well. Good to get another 6C done fairly quickly, need to get back on some harder stuff now.

Edit: I will be visiting family in Scotland next week so will update in two weeks time.

[Barratt]

Mon: Light Campus
Tues: Not sure which day, but went to Carls Walk, had a really poor session, tired from a few days on.
Wed: Works.
Thur: Rest
Fri: Out with work for beer and curry
Sat: Works, slightly hungover. Tried the wasp circuit. Did most of what I tried, about 30 probs ish, felt rubbish... smelled like curry.
Sun: Works, plodded round the black circuit feeling half asleep.

A bit of a mixed week. Introduced a light campus session on Monday lunches. Taking it steady, want to get alot stronger in the next few months.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: As always..

M: Chill
T: PE Session @ The works - Bottom half of yellow 7b (7b my arse!) into green 6c, 4 times with 3 mins rest - Destroyed! 30 Mins rest then  bottom Half of 7b into 6c any feet, 4 times @ 3 mins - Felt sick! Was really, really shit on last 2 goes... Ace!
W: AeroCap session @ Home - Decided to try this on the beastmaker with feet on a chair (set about 3 or 4 ft back) to help with skin - Worked out well but think I may have drifted into PE territory at some point as ended up a bit too pumped!
T: AeroCap @ The works - Steady
F: Kilnsey - Poor session. Did the Directissima for the first time (good route) to warm up. Aimed to get on The Ashes but it appeared to be seeping at the rest. Decided to settle an old score with Sticky Wicket but it was busy so tried to flash Hardy Annual - Fell off low down and breezed the rest - Should have redpointed it but wanted to get on SW. Got on SW, reached my previous highpoint on the 1st attempt (with running beta from the ground as I couldn't remember a thing), took a massive lob! Got on it again but was too tired so sacked it off... Boooo!
S: Wedding 
S: Power session @ The Works - 6 x Hard(ish) problems (red and waspy) each repeated 3 times - Good session! 

A pretty good week overall - Worked hard! Shame about the Kilnsey performance (especially as it was 4 hrs in the car, 200 miles and cost me £20) but it's all good training and was really good to reaquaint myself with the place. Looking at it now I can see that I made some errors with the training this week that may well have contributed to the general shittness; 4th day on being the major one! Really feeling trashed at the moment, this over reaching shizzle better work!

This week: Last week of training before Spain: 4x4's, AeroCap, Power, PE and onsighting before a well earned week off.

:D

[tommytwotone]

Right, back on it having sorted my troublesome shoulder out.

Can you share the beta on that!

I think 5/6 weeks of total rest had a fair bit to do with it - that and the fact that I got a lecture on my posture from my physio so am making an effort to improve it (he says while hunched over the laptop...).

How bad was it at the outset? You had a tendon impingement, right?

Yeah, though I'm assuming just a flareup of a twinge I picked up around 5 years ago when I lived in London and climbed on plastic way too much.

Was bad in runup to Font trip at end of March, ironically I think I overdid it the weekend before pottering at the Works. No chance of resting / taking it easy in the forest so just took a view that I'd rag myself and take the consequences.

Am really trying to make sure I stretch before and after climbing, which seems to be helping. Going to join gym this week so I can pick up antagonist sessions again, may also get back to yoga / continue with pilates I tried while off.

[andybfreeman]

STG - gert finger sorted and get soem fitness ready for more routes this summer
MTG - 7C and 8a

M - rest
T - TCA - circuits/fitness session. Ciruits felt nails - antging beyond 15 moves was a real struggle. Then tried aerocap but couldn't recover on jugs so was broken after 20 minutes. Finished with lots of easier problems with limited rest to try and kick start some fitness
W - rest
Th - TCA - circuits session. Felt a bit better than Tuesday but still struggled
F - rest
Sa - Ansteys. Pleased to retro-flash Might and Main the warmup 6c+ (I struggled on it last year!) then spent the reminder of the day alternating between getting rained on and getting spanked by the lynch.
Su - Planned mileage day at portland. Tweaked my finger on 2nd warm up  and then played it safe doing nothing but a few easy slabs.

Weight up again but only slightly - average for week = 68.9kg.

[Big Dave]

Mon - gym, full body light weight/high rep
Tue -
Wed - gym, full body heavy/low reps
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - MCC
Sun - gym, bench press/weighted dips/leg press

weather looking better this week, will be heading outdoors again!

[205Chris]

STG: Powerplant

Should probably post something but can't really remember what I did last week as I was fairly busy. Managed to fit in some steep board work / repeaters and a works session somewhere along the line but no climbing Fri / Sat / Sun.

Hoping to get back on powerplant this week with a bit of luck.

[shark]

My first post in the power club!

 

[pyrosis]

Welcome, Joe Dobson!

STG: Become consistent with non-climbing fitness practices, font 7A+ on two different rock types, fall in love
MTG: Font 7B on two different rock types (one to go)
LTG: Font 7C by the end of the year

M: Rock Creek Boulders, a nice circuit of 6B-7A and then sent Boy Named Sue, 7A+ (YYFY!), worked on Clearcut 7A+
T: Pocketopia, nothing of note
W: rest, work
T: rest, work
F: Buttermilk, sent Fly Boy arete 6C and Sheepherder, classic highball 5C slab, really scary for me!
S: Pocketopia, sent Goldenrod 7A, super classic problem with a hard crank off of a shallow mono, ouch
S: rest, hot springs, fell in love

Amazing week all around

[tomtom]

My first post in the power club!

 

Ah! You must have been one of the two joes at Rubicon on Sunday.. Hello!