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guidebook/resource for yorkshire pebble wrestling (Read 3181 times)

Lund

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Yo

Was up in the land of the forefathers at the weekend, traipsing around yorkshire trying to get my accent back.  (It came back when drunk, but otherwise remained sadly dead.)

Going bouldering was a bit of a ball ache.  Mainly because there's obviously so much rock and so many venues - yet my bookshelf is sadly lacking when it comes to a quality guidebook.

I've got the "volume one" book - and whilst I quite liked it a couple of years ago, it's now very irritating.  All the grades are different to the yorkshiregrit website, where the fuck is volume 2 (rhetorical question), and it's hardly definitive.  At least it uses font grades, but I could get over V grades if it had more stuff in.

I can't print out the entirety of yorkshire grit.  Also, that's looking a bit unloved at the minute too (check out the front page).  It's missing tonnes of photos - look at ilkley for example.  Now, I'm all for lurching round like a dog with five dicks, trying everything, SOMETIMES, but sometimes I want to find stuff that's good and seige it.

So I need a better book.  Or ten.  Anyone got any ideas?  Is there another book out there that all the wads are using in Yorkshire?

Yet another question.  I've been on the grit.  And I've done a small amount of chuffing on the limestone.  Is there any bouldering on the limestone?

Feel free to shout abuse and point me at another thread if it's got all the answers.

slackline

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Feel free to shout abuse and point me at another thread if it's got all the answers.

An "amusing" thread from around the time Volume 1 was initially published here (although it doesn't contain anything useful!).

What about getting hold of the older Yorkshire Grit Bouldering guide from Rockfax?

webbo

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the answer to your questions is no.a;lthough there may be hope.
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=snowden_naked_yoga#comments

SA Chris

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What about getting hold of the older Yorkshire Grit Bouldering guide from Rockfax?

That was going to be my suggestion. Served me well for many years.

As far as the lime goes, ther is not a shedload. Some bouldering gets done at Kilnsey (I think) but otherwisw Wretherby is the only commonly used venue I am aware of. There is nothing like in the Peak if that's what you are hoping for.

Stubbs

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There's a topic on here somewhere with some photos of the bouldering at Kilnsey, which is very worthwhile.  There's no easy answer re: the grit guidebook situation, I think vol 1 is fine for getting you to the problems, and if you're bothered about grades then the votes on YG may help. Most of the crags that will be covered in Vol 2 have printable pdf topos on YG, possibly with the exception of Crookrise, which is well covered in the old Rockfax guide.

Andy B

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Here's the Kilnsey bouldering stuff. I can't see if the pictures are still linked correctly as they are blocked at work, but if they aren't I'll try and dig them out again when I get home.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,11561.msg197446/topicseen.html#msg197446

slackline

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pics not there any more.

Andy B

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Not sure why the pics aren't linking any more as they are still in photobucket and haven't moved. I've re-done it all here, and I'll re-post it all in the Kilnsey topo thread too.

The lines are from left to right, on the section around Mandela Traverse. This is the section that doesn't have a ledgy plinth at the bottom. All the grades are my own guesses from mostly hasty ascents (except the diagonal prow in picture three, which I didn't manage), they may well have better sequences. Apologies to locals for mistakes, but at least it's a start. Hope it's of some use.



The left hand groove from sitting, starting on a square cut pocket side pull. 6a





The left arete of the bulging prow, starting sitting off a nice comfy protruding pinch, up to edge or slot then a nice little crimp with your right, to finish up sharp pockets to jugs. 7b



This crosses the Prow diagonally from low left to the jug in the groove on the right. 7c+





There are two lines here, both sharing the same low start right underneath on a juggy pocket. Span out right to a crimp with an uncomfortable knobble then the square blocky undercut just above. A big move reaches the deep juggy pocket, then either finish straight up to the the jug above (7a+), or use a diagonal crimp/ pinch and a further comfy crimp to reach the higher hugs in the groove up and left. (the same finishing holds as the diagonal prow problem). 7b

You can also link the starting hold of this line into the start of the diagonal prow problem. Steve also pointed out a few hard eliminates on this link up but I can't remember them.





The groove line to the right. Start sitting with hands on the good ledge up to crimps in the groove, then span up and right to big protruding jugs. 6c





Leach's Eliminate: From the horn like protruding holds at the back of the roof reach with left hand to the two finger sidepull pocket, then straight through to the juggy slot break. ? ? ? (I didn't try this) The non eliminate version of the line/ area climbs slightly right of this to the juggy slot break 6c/+





From good pocket/slot jugs reach a nice horizontal pinch with right, and pull through to something (I can't remember) then a loose looking juggy flake and more jugs above. 7a





From good holds reach the two finger and mono pocket combo with your left, span to the spike jug up and right, then more good holds above. 7a/+





From good pocket work up the right side of the bulge to high jugs. 6b

Sean_J

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+1 for the old rockfax Yorkshire Bouldering guide. It's dirt cheap now too in some places, i've seen it for under £8 in Mountain Intelligence and it looks like Rock and Run have it for just a fiver plus postage.

Lund

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Am I being a dick?  Or are we ignoring this?

http://info.rockrun.com/articles/yorkshire-grit-bouldering-volume-2-preview.html

Came out months ago.  Have we discussed it but I've missed it?  The search brought me here.  My own bloody thread.

 

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