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A bigger splash... (Read 4870 times)

tomtom

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A bigger splash...
May 20, 2011, 05:01:55 pm
Hello,
In my multi pronged attemt to get a 7 at Rubicon I was making some headway on this today. My question is where/how does it end? What I am doing (so far) is...

Rh in awkward crimpy pocket, RF low out right on huge flake, LH on large hold at chest height.
Pop up with LH to lower flake. Plonk LF on obvious break/hold.
Udge LH up to higher flake
Cross through with RF to small edge about 25cm above and slightly to left of LF.
Then bring LF accross to another small edge...

I run out of beans here, but does it then reach through with the RH for the crimp above and Right of the good flake (that I have with my LH) and finish, or does it trend leftwards and upwards (there seems to be a big gap of fuck all between a good looking flakey jug thing to the left of the good higher flake and much higher up...

Whats the numbers on the end?

tomtom

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#1 Re: A bigger splash...
May 20, 2011, 07:43:54 pm
OK, just seen this... I'll get my coat...


cofe

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#2 Re: A bigger splash...
May 20, 2011, 07:49:24 pm
Most people go across to the Press jug then up.

dave

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#3 Re: A bigger splash...
May 20, 2011, 11:02:58 pm
You can either get the ultrasharp rh crimp then udge onto the good jug with left, or cross through for the jug avoiding the crimp and probably grabbing the press jug to kill the swing. Most finish on either of these jugs.

tomtom

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#4 Re: A bigger splash...
May 21, 2011, 09:53:21 am
You can either get the ultrasharp rh crimp then udge onto the good jug with left, or cross through for the jug avoiding the crimp and probably grabbing the press jug to kill the swing. Most finish on either of these jugs.

That sounds better... schlepping up to the higher holds sounds like trouble for a scaredy-cat like myself. Thanks Cofe & Dave.

schloosh

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#5 Re: A bigger splash...
June 23, 2017, 04:47:58 pm
Sorry to dig out an old post but....

Is the consensus now that this problem finishes on the first jug you get to as here:
at 01:39, is that still 7a+?

Or do you keep going up to the break?

Kingy

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#6 Re: A bigger splash...
June 23, 2017, 05:30:01 pm
Is the consensus now that this problem finishes on the first jug you get to Or do you keep going up to the break?

Finish on the first jug, or continue if you feel like it at no change in grade

dave

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#7 Re: A bigger splash...
June 23, 2017, 06:44:24 pm
After the jug there's a very incut sidepull, then the break. Adds no difficulty or quality. I went up there again about a month ago and it was covered in cobwebs and leaves you having to downclimb or a heavy landing. Basically everyone finishes at the jug.

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#8 Re: A bigger splash...
June 24, 2017, 09:19:00 am
Music to my ears, or my balls at least!

Cheers gents.

tomtom

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#9 Re: A bigger splash...
June 24, 2017, 10:27:42 am
Funny problem ABS - felt really really hard for ages then I guess I just got my body position right and it went. Thankfully I never have to hold that minging crimp on the right again!

 

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