Although this has been covered in
another thread I felt this deserved to be a News item:
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=4275Access and approachesThe railway tunnels are now open for public access on foot or on bicycle, and the large car park at Millers Dale Station is again fully open.
The easiest and preferred way to get to Dogs Dinner, Chee Tor and the Cornice is via the old railway track from Millers Dale Station, or from the large lay by on the A6 at Topley Pike via Old Dale. A well made path leads down to the riverside path from the south side of the railway track just after the long tunnel which starts west of Bridge 75. Please do not use the more direct but unmade eroding descent down the railway embankment to Dogs Dinner on the north side.
This avoids having to park in Wormhill at all. A strong letter of complaint has been received citing almost every form of nuisance behaviour possible, but in particular inconsiderate parking. It’s not the first time there have been such complaints, and not surprisingly the problem is worst when there are long dry spells of weather. Please leave the villagers in peace, and if you do think of going there avoid blocking entrances, damaging soft verges, creating congestion and so on, and remember there are now better alternatives.
All crags in the Dale should be approached from the riverside public right of way and not along the opposite river bank. The alluvial soils are fragile, as are the plants that grow in them, and the Wildlife Trust does not want them disturbed. So approach Two Tier and the Long Wall by crossing the river at the weir opposite Two Tier and Chee Tor by crossing the river at the island opposite Nostradamus.
For Plum Buttress use the stile and path directly below the buttress and avoid using the track across the scree altogether.
A very important point to note is that there is no public access within the Dale away from the public right of way, and as climbers we have unique negotiated concessions.
When crossing the river be careful not to disturb the river bed or anything in the river. This contains a very special fish population, and is regularly patrolled by the water bailiff.
Bolting and other climbing guidelinesBolted routes were in the main established before the Wildlife Trust acquired the site. They would very much prefer there to be no bolts or lower offs at all, but have conceded that where sport routes are established they may remain, though any replacement of fixed gear can only be on a like for like basis and should not be glaringly obvious. Routes should always be left clean of quick draws or tat.
There is an absolute embargo on bolting new routes and on retro bolting. It is really important that everyone observes this. If you came across anyone infringing this agreement please point out it could easily cost all concessionary access for everyone. The Wildlife Trust is absolutely clear this is no idle threat.
Trad climbing is not a problem providing all vegetation is left undisturbed, whether ascending a route or during abseil descent. Leaving vegetation undisturbed applies just as much to venues like Rhubarb and Cosmopolitan where these are re-vegetating.
On some minor or largely unclimbed crags like Waterline and Chee Tor East the Wildlife Trust do not want any climbing access at all – and would prefer the same applied to Nettle Buttress too. The BMC’s priority in negotiation has been to retain access to the major and most popular venues.
Wildlife Trust thanks climbers
And so to the thanks from the Wildlife Trust for the help climbers gave in helping with the new board walk near the Cornice, and to the BMC’s Access and Conservation Trust (ACT) for helping to fund it.
Volunteers needed
Last but not least – the Himalayan Balsam. As a garden escapee without the natural controls it attracts in its native habitat it becomes dominant in preferred locations shading out native vegetation, allowing erosion to set in during winter months and reducing biodiversity. A campaign to remove it from the Wye is underway, and if you can give a hand with this, your help would be much appreciated and help to strengthen climbers’ reputation with the conservation bodies in the Dale as a responsible and trustworthy user group. Please contact Steve Moores on osprey@greenbee.net direct to register you interest or find out more.
