[monkoffunk]

Certainly the age thing doesn’t come across in the studies.

The metanalysis had this demographic: “360 participants, 20.3% were female and 7.2% were elderly males and females (range 55–92 years), but the vast majority of participants (77.2%) were young, healthy, active males.” What is UKB demographic?

Agree that there is huge potential for bias and lots of small studies some with industry donations of product. Six studies with negative results were included in the metanalysis, which I think is pretty good for this sort of thing?? But yes the downside of metanalyses in general is magnification of lots of dodgey primary research.

Not sold, but tempted to give a bash. Plus it’s pretty cheap and relatively harmless as these things go!

[Muenchener]

The key phrase for ukb readership is "Beta-alanine attenuates neuromuscular fatigue, particularly in older subjects..."

Right, I'm in then! Even the thought of it makes me all tingly

[duncan]

Agree that there is huge potential for bias and lots of small studies some with industry donations of product. Six studies with negative results were included in the metanalysis, which I think is pretty good for this sort of thing?? But yes the downside of metanalyses in general is magnification of lots of dodgey primary research.

“We need less research, better research, and research done for the right reasons” (Doug Altman)

Interesting the meta analysis does not come to the conclusions about age made in the Position Statement. The competing interests section is also worth reading.

[monkoffunk]

If this was a medical trial for a treatment I’d been dismissing it out of hand, I mean 360 people even in a well designed study would probably be underpowered (not sure about this though I’ll admit I know very little stats).

The chances of getting a randomised controlled trial with 1000 rock climbers is just unfortunately not that high. I think that’s why I’d be willing to take a punt on something that is almost certainly non harmful. Maybe all the conflicting interests etc should be enough to make me bit it but maybe I’m a sucker after all.

[petejh]

That's exactly the point MofF..

We're talking about something that 'might' let you get 2 or 3 more moves up a rock climb before you feel too pumped. We're not talking about something that might cure a serious illness but alternatively might make you worse.

I think some posters might be prone to either forgetting or ignoring context when they start analysing studies about training and supplements. Really, who else but vested interests are going to push for studies? This thing isn't essential or even important to mankind. Unless you're selling supplements.. or a very well funded national sporting body..   

[moose]

I used beta-alanine last year, during the red-point season.  For what they're worth, most of the studies indicate that you need to load the stuff long term (say, 180 g spread over the test period).  So I imbibed 1.5 to 3 g doses twice daily, the second often in the form of a nightly "Power G&T".... boozing my way to anaerobic endurance! 

Did it work? I dunno... I certainly ticked my season's project quicker than expected and had a reasonable year all-round in terms of in-a-day RPs etc.  That said, I suspect an entire winter of woodie and fingerboard training might have been a factor.  Still, I doubt it harmed, it was pretty cheap, and the addition of gin meant it wasn't entirely unpleasant.

 (once upon a time, gin and quinine laden tonic was the basis of empire building in malarial countries; two centuries later, gin and beta-alanine laced tonic was used to dope an unworthy punter up routes.... am I a one-man emblem for national decay?!).

[TobyD]

That's exactly the point MofF..

We're talking about something that 'might' let you get 2 or 3 more moves up a rock climb before you feel too pumped. We're not talking about something that might cure a serious illness but alternatively might make you worse.

I think some posters might be prone to either forgetting or ignoring context when they start analysing studies about training and supplements. Really, who else but vested interests are going to push for studies? This thing isn't essential or even important to mankind. Unless you're selling supplements.. or a very well funded national sporting body..

I agree entirely. The decision on taking supplements is largely a basic cost benefit analysis. None of the commonly used supplements in climbing are going to instantly make you into Megos, and are somewhat unlikely to kill you or make your legs fall off or something. Really effective supplements are the illegal ones, most of which have some rather unpleasant side effects.

[monkoffunk]

Cheers all!