[Scouse D]

Did a very good new problem today at Stanage.

It's the arete right of 'back in the YMCA'.
Start on Good RH hold to the right of the arete. Bounce LH up to the sidepull into the middle of the wall. Wrap R heel around the arete and make sketchy and reachy moves up to the good hold at the top of the arete (it helps to have a long reach otherwise it's a jump, albeit a very cool jump).
Landing is good but the nature of the last move necessitates a spot and a couple of pads
Can be seen in this photo
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=166328

Add it to your circuit, it's good.

[Percy B]

Nice one. Looked at this with Travs last year but we had to curtail our attempts when Travs bust the starting hold off and sat down rather hard on a rock, which bust his cocsycks/coksics/the bone at the bottom of your spine which I can't spell the name of. Glad its been done at last - a little esoteric but the climbing looked good. And a better name than the Neil Travers Arse Buster.

[mrjonathanr]

Might give that a look and a brilliant name btw. Percy, it's a coccyx. Some people think as a residual tail section it's proof we're descended from monkeys. They might be right.

[Paul B]

Johnny Brown was pointing at this whilst we were playing with camera's, sorry to sound less than positive but isn't there another section of rock just out of the shot which spoils it a bit?

[Scouse D]

The first move takes you onto the face so there is very little dab potential. The other bit of rock would only come into play if you had to climb the arete by clamping. It's a really good independent problem.

[slackline]

You've been saving this for ages just to make the new guide obsolete before its even printed and piss cofe off haven't you?

BTW, get it added to PeakBouldering.info for completeness.

[Paul B]

It's a really good independent problem.

Nicey nice

[nik at work]

Good name

[dave]

We aught to have a whip-round for whoever came up with such a good name.

[dave]

did this tonight, can confirm the quality. And also that despite what it looks like there seems to be no way of making yourself dab the rocks on the right, even with the cutloose for the pocket at the top swings you away from the rock.