UKBouldering.com

Strings (Read 127065 times)

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3063
  • Karma: +168/-4
#350 Re: Strings
February 10, 2024, 11:34:25 pm
That would fall well into the realms of marginal gains for me! Never even considered rope weight.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4327
  • Karma: +335/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#351 Re: Strings
February 11, 2024, 07:38:53 am
That would fall well into the realms of marginal gains for me! Never even considered rope weight.

If you weighted 53 kg, were excessively weak for your grade, and liked to climb 50 m pitches with thin vertical cruxes just below the chains you would! (TBH, I think that drag is often a bigger factor and drag seems to increase with diameter)

MischaHY

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 517
  • Karma: +65/-1
#352 Re: Strings
February 11, 2024, 09:30:36 am
Honestly it’s bizarre to me that nobody is looking at Edelrid ropes. By far the best on the market imo.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9745
  • Karma: +267/-4
#353 Re: Strings
February 11, 2024, 11:50:24 am
My experience of Edlerid ropes are they coil around everything and anything. One of my half ropes was Edlerid and it was terrifying to use in the Verdon as the smallest of juniper roots was a perfect hook in its eyes.

haydn jones

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1060
  • Karma: +96/-2
#354 Re: Strings
February 11, 2024, 01:08:10 pm
That would fall well into the realms of marginal gains for me! Never even considered rope weight.

you can not be serious! have you never done a 45meter pitch before? its horrendous pulling against the weight of a heavy rope.  :blink:

spidermonkey09

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3063
  • Karma: +168/-4
#355 Re: Strings
February 11, 2024, 01:14:06 pm
Of course I have, but can genuinely say I didn't think the rope I was using was the issue. I've never owned a super skinny one as I always buy the cheapest I can find so maybe one day I will have my mind blown!

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5446
  • Karma: +247/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#356 Re: Strings
February 11, 2024, 10:50:48 pm
Honestly it’s bizarre to me that nobody is looking at Edelrid ropes. By far the best on the market imo.

They’re what I use, a pair of Mammut Genesis half ropes excepted, cause they’re tough as old boots.

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4445
  • Karma: +150/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#357 Re: Strings
June 26, 2024, 01:36:42 pm
Did I dream that Simond recalled or stopped selling their 8.9mm?

Google not coming up with much. Need a new rope and apparently many folks are happy with those?

Any other thoughts for a similar offering?

Nemo

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 135
  • Karma: +94/-0
#358 Re: Strings
June 26, 2024, 02:49:50 pm
As I understand it, the recall was just for the 80m and 100m versions of the pink 8.9mm rope.
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/simond-edge-rope-recall

I've still got the 60m version that I've had a few years, and still use it.  It's the best rope for that price I've had by miles.
And they appear to still be selling it, so I'm assuming all's OK:
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/climbing-and-mountaineering-triple-rope-standard-8-9-mm-x-60-m-edge-dry-turquoise/_/R-p-196870?mc=8495202&c=fluo%20ultra%20pink_river%20grey


Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • junky
  • Posts: 765
  • Karma: +41/-0
  • Stealth Punter
#359 Re: Strings
June 27, 2024, 10:58:54 am
Anyone got any gen on good value 60m doubles??? Decided that it's time to retire my old pair of 50m's - probably just going for price over performance considering the amount of trad I actually do...

jakaitch

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 107
  • Karma: +6/-1
#360 Re: Strings
June 27, 2024, 11:42:07 am
Simond!

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3042
  • Karma: +353/-2
#361 Re: Strings
June 27, 2024, 11:54:12 am
Do you need 60s? I can see how they might be useful for winter or alpine climbing where it might be some distance between reliable belays or you might want to link pitches for speed. For general UK rock and the Verdon (for example) I think 50m is usually enough. I've used 50m ropes (8mm Mammut phoenix) for 100s of pitches over 10 years and I can't remember ever needing for anything longer. They are still going strong but it's likely I'll get the same when I need to replace. Current version seem to be the Mammut alpine dry which are £115 from Dick's. If you can manage without dry treatment the alpine classic is £76.50 also from Dick's.

The other ropes ive used a fair amount are Tendon (ambition?) 8.5mms which have been fine and handle reasonably well. These have had less use so I don't know how they wear. £70 for 50m from Outside currently which seems pretty good for a dry treated half rope. Edit: out of stock! Did that just happen?!

The Simond equivalents are £80.

« Last Edit: June 27, 2024, 12:03:35 pm by duncan »

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8796
  • Karma: +646/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#362 Re: Strings
June 27, 2024, 12:02:58 pm
You can just about stretch back to the tree on Darius on 60m.

Just saying

Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • junky
  • Posts: 765
  • Karma: +41/-0
  • Stealth Punter
#363 Re: Strings
June 27, 2024, 12:38:08 pm
Do you need 60s? I can see how they might be useful for winter or alpine climbing where it might be some distance between reliable belays or you might want to link pitches for speed. For general UK rock and the Verdon (for example) I think 50m is usually enough.
Thanks Duncan - I did think this but after this last trip to Verdon 60's were invaluable for some abs, you could then link pitches too (which definitely helps when you want to get up late but still climb 12 pitches ;))

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4327
  • Karma: +335/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#364 Re: Strings
June 27, 2024, 01:58:18 pm
Do you need 60s? I can see how they might be useful for winter or alpine climbing where it might be some distance between reliable belays or you might want to link pitches for speed. For general UK rock and the Verdon (for example) I think 50m is usually enough.
Thanks Duncan - I did think this but after this last trip to Verdon 60's were invaluable for some abs [...]

Which ones? I have only climbed with 60m and 55ms rope there and appart from some sneaky trick-rappels (like getting down Dalle Gris with a 60m ab plus a short scramble/easy solo to a second 60m ab, or rapping 56m down Mort à Venice + a scramble + a second 50m rap to get to sector to get down to sector Frimes), I would think 50m is enough for all mayor rap routes?

csl

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 818
  • Karma: +93/-2
#365 Re: Strings
June 27, 2024, 02:07:43 pm
If you can manage without dry treatment the alpine classic is £76.50 also from Dick's.

I got a pair of these after asking a similar question, apart from being forced to break up Darius with a belay at the early break I've been very happy with them. Although some of my climbing partners have commented on how thin they are  :-\

Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • junky
  • Posts: 765
  • Karma: +41/-0
  • Stealth Punter
#366 Re: Strings
June 27, 2024, 02:18:25 pm
Do you need 60s? I can see how they might be useful for winter or alpine climbing where it might be some distance between reliable belays or you might want to link pitches for speed. For general UK rock and the Verdon (for example) I think 50m is usually enough.
Thanks Duncan - I did think this but after this last trip to Verdon 60's were invaluable for some abs [...]

Which ones? I have only climbed with 60m and 55ms rope there and appart from some sneaky trick-rappels (like getting down Dalle Gris with a 60m ab plus a short scramble/easy solo to a second 60m ab, or rapping 56m down Mort à Venice + a scramble + a second 50m rap to get to sector to get down to sector Frimes), I would think 50m is enough for all mayor rap routes?
Funily enough Dalle Gris springs to mind - it was there we decided that 60's would be the way forward but you're probably right that they're not essential... We did run a bunch of pitches together on Crete des Vernis which they definitely helped with. My partner does have a pair though & we'll take theirs again next time so I guess 50's would be fine for the right price....

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9745
  • Karma: +267/-4
#367 Re: Strings
June 27, 2024, 09:24:22 pm
You certainly don't need them on DG as there are anchors everywhere although I found that trying to cut the number of abs resulted in hang ups.

Personally I'd take the weight penalty of 60s for a bit more flexibility and I've definitely had to clip in to an anchor with a worrying amount of rope left; perhaps guides are getting better but some are still shit!

I'm wondering what to do with my ropes. They're boxed up in the garage but haven't been used now for several years.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11565
  • Karma: +711/-22
#368 Re: Strings
June 28, 2024, 11:15:19 am
You can just about stretch back to the tree on Darius on 60m.

Just saying

I did Supersonic on 2 x 60m 8mms, I was so pumped and it was such a stretch to the tree that I fumble dropped one while lying in the grass trying to tie them together. Char had to second on one which he didn't consider a bonus.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9745
  • Karma: +267/-4
#369 Re: Strings
June 28, 2024, 11:23:58 am
I can't remember if I'd run a few pitches as one but on a low angled slab in Val di Mello I can remember having to take a run up, pre-armed with a sling, to get to a tree belay and as I did Nat shouted off-belay etc.

Duncan Disorderly

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • junky
  • Posts: 765
  • Karma: +41/-0
  • Stealth Punter
#370 Re: Strings
July 02, 2024, 11:29:25 am
Thanks guys - I decided to go for 50's and popped into Outside as they had the Mammut 8mm's in - they actually only had one but seems that my old doubles are the same diameter so just kept the best looking of my old ones and supplemented with the new one - worked pretty well puntering with the GF on Gimmer (not that I was expecting to fall off like)... Probably get another before the next trad outing....

crzylgs

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 297
  • Karma: +8/-1
#371 Re: Strings
July 22, 2024, 02:04:09 pm
Hi all in prep for a trip to north Wales in a few weeks looking to retire my current outdoor 50/60m ropes and pick up a new one. These days I'm essentially a good weather, casual sport climber, mainly doing it with my partner and simply looking for fun days out, Onsight level climbing. Keep any try-hard projects for boulders.

I've seen people on here really rate the Decathlon pink ropes and I'll probably end up going for that option, but am not convinced I 'need' the triple dry treatments. I'd be completely happy paying £130, however if people had any alternative suggestions or were aware of any current offers I'd be open to alternatives.

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4445
  • Karma: +150/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#372 Re: Strings
July 22, 2024, 09:45:28 pm
Dry or not, I think it's the best cheap deal around. I didn't do a load of research but it came up as the cheapest option for me, dry treated or not.

crzylgs

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 297
  • Karma: +8/-1
#373 Re: Strings
July 23, 2024, 01:35:10 pm
Dry or not, I think it's the best cheap deal around. I didn't do a load of research but it came up as the cheapest option for me, dry treated or not.

Thanks for that. I always like to double check to avoid any buyers remorse but that seems good to me!

Catcheemonkey

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 126
  • Karma: +10/-0
#374 Re: Strings
July 26, 2024, 10:33:23 am
50% off Beal Karmas in various lengths at Blacks at the moment and quite a few other ropes reduced too:

https://www.blacks.co.uk/activities/climbing/ropes/

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal