UKBouldering.com

Strings (Read 105970 times)

jwi

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4165
  • Karma: +328/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#325 Re: Strings
June 26, 2023, 01:16:00 pm
If you go for thin half-ropes and believe that the leader could be falling far or close to the belay on a multipitch, get an assist-breaking belay device like the Edelrid Jul, and practice using it. In my experience, it is really difficult to hold hard falls on twins/thin halfs when tied into a belay. I would not trust myself to be able to hold a hard fall by someone my weight or slightly heavier if I belayed with a reverso or ATC when I am tied into a belay.

Edit. I have a Simond Halfrope and am fairly happy with it. I don't use it much though, so my opinion is worthless.

HaeMeS

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 170
  • Karma: +13/-0
#326 Re: Strings
June 26, 2023, 02:14:18 pm
Valid point by JWI. I've been using 7,5mm twin ropes for ages on long rock and ice routes. Love 'm, but you need to be careful whilst belaying and rappelling. Best to use a Microjul or similar device. Your partner as well! And yes, beefier ropes are safer and better suited for Alpine routes. But I prefer twin ropes over a single rope on long multipitch climbs (I'd rather have 2 skinny ropes instead of a single rope). Nearly cut both ropes once during a very long fall and won't use a single rope because of that experience.

Paul B

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9609
  • Karma: +262/-4
#327 Re: Strings
June 26, 2023, 02:28:37 pm
How heavy are you JWI?

We were using skinny half ropes with a Reverso 4 and I definitely tested the setup a few times! We're both pretty light though.

jwi

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4165
  • Karma: +328/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#328 Re: Strings
June 26, 2023, 02:41:08 pm
73 kg. So close to 80 kg when dressed and all racked up.

Paul B

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9609
  • Karma: +262/-4
#329 Re: Strings
June 26, 2023, 02:44:48 pm
Yeah that's a fair difference. I think I said it elsewhere, my super skinny halfs were great on the walk in but not always confidence inspiring with one clipped when heading around a sharp looking arete. We settled for Mammut 8mm half ropes and although I curse them in the walk-in (in comparison) they do seem to be the sweet spot.

csl

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 786
  • Karma: +93/-2
#330 Re: Strings
June 26, 2023, 03:33:23 pm
2nd the 8mm Mammuts plenty solid enough for alpine / big mountain / trad.

Having had a triple rated (that was bought, and handy, for a US trip) I feel they are very niche and you'll know if you need them. If you think you need half ropes, but are "considering" triples, don't bother. They have to sacrifice sheath for core to hit the strength requirements and hence are less abrasion resistant in my experience.

Yeh I think Iíd taken triples to basically be harder wearing halves, which it turns out they arenít. So will just go for halves instead

danm

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 824
  • Karma: +112/-1
#331 Re: Strings
June 26, 2023, 09:32:08 pm
If you go for thin half-ropes and believe that the leader could be falling far or close to the belay on a multipitch, get an assist-breaking belay device like the Edelrid Jul, and practice using it. In my experience, it is really difficult to hold hard falls on twins/thin halfs when tied into a belay. I would not trust myself to be able to hold a hard fall by someone my weight or slightly heavier if I belayed with a reverso or ATC when I am tied into a belay.

Edit. I have a Simond Halfrope and am fairly happy with it. I don't use it much though, so my opinion is worthless.
Jim Titt did some tests showing that for high fall factors, typically these devices have a reduced braking force compared to low fall factor falls. Makes sense as compression of the rope will be greater so the pinching effect will be reduced. Essentially, their braking performance reduces when you ideally need it to increase. You can get a boost to the braking force of a traditional manual belay device by doubling up the belay krab, useful for abbing on skinny ropes too.

Another option if anticipating big falls is to allow body dynamic belaying by extending the belay length. Caveats apply - you need to be prepared to move upwards and ensure there are no things to hit on the way up, but it will have the benefit of a softer catch and if climbing trad with some unreliable protection may mean they are more likely to stay in.

I'd also suggest if using skinny ropes you should also really consider using belay gloves.

Back to the topic, my Petzl Rumba 8mm is fairly skinny and light, and appears to be indestructable. A 60m is all I need for grit trad and pairs up for mountain trad assuming I ever go and do any again!

spidermonkey09

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2765
  • Karma: +157/-4

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29126
  • Karma: +625/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#333 Re: Strings
September 13, 2023, 05:53:58 pm
oof, good prices, i really should replace mine. For general indoor leading and outdoor toproping / leading with the boy (ie nothing where weight of rope will matter). what would be better, 60m O-flex or Flashlight? Look much of a muchness.

Teaboy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1172
  • Karma: +72/-2
#334 Re: Strings
September 13, 2023, 08:07:58 pm
Oh balls! Iíve just paid 150 Euro for one in Decathlon (which is a pretty decent price really)

chickencurry60

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 21
  • Karma: +1/-0
#335 Re: Strings
September 13, 2023, 08:58:15 pm
Bargain :o Anyone in Sheffield want to chop this in half with me?

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29126
  • Karma: +625/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#336 Re: Strings
September 14, 2023, 07:55:04 am
what would be better, 60m O-flex or Flashlight?

Decision made by dithering as one went out of stock. Went for the Flashlight.

petejh

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5736
  • Karma: +621/-35
#337 Re: Strings
September 14, 2023, 01:26:06 pm
You got the one I dithered too long to get!

dunnyg

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1515
  • Karma: +91/-7
#338 Re: Strings
December 06, 2023, 03:43:52 pm
Anyone got any up to date beta on a decent 70m sport rope? For euro cragging and the like.

Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2692
  • Karma: +117/-0
#339 Re: Strings
December 06, 2023, 04:16:47 pm
In recent years I've used the Decathlon pink 8.9 and green 9.5. Found the pink far superior, one of the best ropes I've ever had.

MischaHY

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 493
  • Karma: +64/-1
#340 Re: Strings
December 06, 2023, 04:20:41 pm
Edelrid Swift is extremely durable and well handling for an 8.9. The hummingbird is the 9.2 version which feels very similar but a little more suited to abuse. They last so well I donít see the point in going thicker unless you dog around on bouldery projects a lot.

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2819
  • Karma: +144/-1
#341 Re: Strings
December 06, 2023, 04:26:43 pm
In recent years I've used the Decathlon pink 8.9 and green 9.5. Found the pink far superior, one of the best ropes I've ever had.

Unfortunately the pink simond ropes have been recalled and seem to have been out of stock for quite a while, so could be a while before they're available again (if at all).

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5722
  • Karma: +226/-4
#342 Re: Strings
December 06, 2023, 04:28:45 pm
Anyone got any up to date beta on a decent 70m sport rope? For euro cragging and the like.

buy an 80m one.

Flippancy aside it really is the way, 35+m routes aren't that uncommon, and means you can chop a couple of times and still have a usable length rope too.

spidermonkey09

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2765
  • Karma: +157/-4
#343 Re: Strings
December 06, 2023, 04:35:07 pm
The green simond 9.5 is a perfectly good rope and avoids the tendency to go stiff like a cable that the pink does. I've just bought another one.

Nemo

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 111
  • Karma: +87/-0
#344 Re: Strings
January 05, 2024, 05:19:58 pm
Quote
Unfortunately the pink simond ropes have been recalled and seem to have been out of stock for quite a while, so could be a while before they're available again (if at all). - remus

As I understood from here, I thought the recall was just for the 80m and 100m versions of the pink Simond ropes?
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/simond-edge-rope-recall

I've got a 60m one, and I'm still using it.  @Remus, is there more info you've heard of that I'm missing?


remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2819
  • Karma: +144/-1
#345 Re: Strings
January 05, 2024, 07:03:04 pm
Haven't heard anything since the original recall notice but haven't been keeping an ear out, so it's possible decathlon may have said something else since then.

jwi

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4165
  • Karma: +328/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#346 Re: Strings
February 10, 2024, 05:59:14 pm
As the Simond 8.9 is impossible to get right now, what is the preferred option? Beal Joker?

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2819
  • Karma: +144/-1
#347 Re: Strings
February 10, 2024, 06:42:31 pm
As the Simond 8.9 is impossible to get right now, what is the preferred option? Beal Joker?

The green simond 9.5 rope is decent in my experience.

spidermonkey09

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2765
  • Karma: +157/-4
#348 Re: Strings
February 10, 2024, 07:30:15 pm
Ditto

jwi

Online
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4165
  • Karma: +328/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#349 Re: Strings
February 10, 2024, 09:54:16 pm
As the Simond 8.9 is impossible to get right now, what is the preferred option? Beal Joker?

The green simond 9.5 rope is decent in my experience.

I have one of those for multip-pitch routes, as I'm a bit too paranoid to lead on a single 9mm if there are big features, but 9.5 is too heavy for a very light climber who prefer pitches > 35 m

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal