UKBouldering.com

Strings (Read 98542 times)

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2599
  • Karma: +125/-3
#300 Re: Strings
March 15, 2022, 10:34:02 am
Good knowledge, thanks will give it a go. Psyched for the season now, just need to finish off the boulder projects!

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1592
  • Karma: +60/-1
#301 Re: Strings
March 15, 2022, 10:36:20 am
Any nice simple rope bags these days? Iíve got one which is just a sheet which the rope goes on, which folds into a little drawstring bag. Easy to stuff into a rucksack.

Seems like most are now a full on separate pack from scanning online?

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +317/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#302 Re: Strings
March 15, 2022, 11:26:18 am
Dunno, we just use IKEA bags, but they are not great for 100m ropes. The dedicated rope bags available now all look ridiculous. Around here a cheap bit of tarp + coiling the rope at the end of the day to carry down from the crag seems the most fashionable choice.

IanP

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 676
  • Karma: +34/-0
#303 Re: Strings
March 15, 2022, 11:31:36 am
Any nice simple rope bags these days? Iíve got one which is just a sheet which the rope goes on, which folds into a little drawstring bag. Easy to stuff into a rucksack.

Seems like most are now a full on separate pack from scanning online?

I use an EB one , it goes on the top of my sack and is a simple light tarp/small bag with couple of buckles and a shoulder strap which is useful for moving around the crag.  Since you can get it for £15 could just cut shoulder strap off if you don't need it.

https://www.millets.co.uk/15902207/eb-rope-bag-15902207


Muenchener

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2670
  • Karma: +117/-0
#304 Re: Strings
March 15, 2022, 11:38:21 am
Edelrid Liner is a nice simple sausage shaped ropebag that plays nicely with rope straps on top of rucksacks, thus avoiding having an additional clumsy & uncomfortable item slung on your shoulder

galpinos

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2094
  • Karma: +85/-1
#305 Re: Strings
March 15, 2022, 11:47:20 am
Any nice simple rope bags these days?

Black Diamond Burrito - light, ridiculously easy to pack (just roll it up and the elastic does the rest) and often on sale. Goes in your sac easily, unlike an IKEA bag.

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4142
  • Karma: +128/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#306 Re: Strings
March 15, 2022, 03:07:27 pm
 I've just checked the Simond pink 8.9 against the Joker 9.1 and I reckon the Simon is thicker?!

How have you lot found the longevity? My old triple rated seemed to get wrecked pretty quick.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 28714
  • Karma: +616/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#307 Re: Strings
March 15, 2022, 03:10:43 pm
Further on Decathlon / Simmond, so far they haven't pulled out of Russia, in spite of  mounting pressure to do so.

https://www.connexionfrance.com/article/French-news/Pressure-mounts-on-French-brands-to-close-stores-in-Russia

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2568
  • Karma: +120/-1
#308 Re: Strings
March 15, 2022, 03:23:04 pm
I've just checked the Simond pink 8.9 against the Joker 9.1 and I reckon the Simon is thicker?!

How have you lot found the longevity? My old triple rated seemed to get wrecked pretty quick.

I cant remember the details but there something funky with how rope diameters are measured which means they don't compare very well. I think comparisons between ropes in a brand are ok nut between brands not so much? Im sure danm would know the details.

I've been well impressed with how long my simond 8.9 has lasted. Used it pretty much exclusively for a year (170 routes according to UKC) before having to chop it then got the usual extended life from repeated chops.

cheque

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3334
  • Karma: +509/-2
    • Cheque Pictures
#309 Re: Strings
March 15, 2022, 03:23:40 pm
I've just checked the Simond pink 8.9 against the Joker 9.1 and I reckon the Simon is thicker?!

Don't believe or rely on the stated diameter - manufacturers are allowed a degree of tolerance when giving the diameter which makes it fairly useless for comparing different ropes thickness. Better to compare the weight per metre, which gives a much better guide to how much material is in the rope.

When they do the tests, the rope is always carefully conditioned wrt to temperature and humidity, because this makes a big difference with nylon's physical properties. They hang a weight on a sample of rope, and measure the diameter carefully in 6 different places, and take the average.

The annoying thing is that this figure has to be recorded to the nearest 0.1mm, but there is then an added +/-0.2mm variance allowed in the diameter quoted on the label and rope end marker. As an example, if you measured the diameter at 7.95mm, you could label and sell it as anything from a 7.7mm to an 8.2mm rope. Obviously this is a shoddy state of affairs, (given if you buy a belay device it will have a range of acceptable rope diameters to use with it) but BMC attempts to lobby for a more accurate reporting have so far been resisted, not for want of trying.

Density has to be reported to the nearest 1g using the actual measurements, so is much more accurate.

galpinos

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2094
  • Karma: +85/-1
#310 Re: Strings
March 15, 2022, 04:09:35 pm
I've just checked the Simond pink 8.9 against the Joker 9.1 and I reckon the Simon is thicker?!

Don't believe or rely on the stated diameter - manufacturers are allowed a degree of tolerance when giving the diameter which makes it fairly useless for comparing different ropes thickness. Better to compare the weight per metre, which gives a much better guide to how much material is in the rope.

When they do the tests, the rope is always carefully conditioned wrt to temperature and humidity, because this makes a big difference with nylon's physical properties. They hang a weight on a sample of rope, and measure the diameter carefully in 6 different places, and take the average.

The annoying thing is that this figure has to be recorded to the nearest 0.1mm, but there is then an added +/-0.2mm variance allowed in the diameter quoted on the label and rope end marker. As an example, if you measured the diameter at 7.95mm, you could label and sell it as anything from a 7.7mm to an 8.2mm rope. Obviously this is a shoddy state of affairs, (given if you buy a belay device it will have a range of acceptable rope diameters to use with it) but BMC attempts to lobby for a more accurate reporting have so far been resisted, not for want of trying.

Density has to be reported to the nearest 1g using the actual measurements, so is much more accurate.

As much as all of the above seems appalling, it was me that has been lobbying on behalf of the BMC to get EN 892/UIAA 101 changed but the main reason it hasn't is due to the manufacturing tolerances achievable with softgoods. I am still not happy in the responses I have received and no other associations nor manufacturers appear to be concerned, however, due to a performance aspect being introduced to the new EN 15151-3 (belay devices with assisted braking) and potentially introduced to parts 1 and 2, it will become more pertinent.

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +317/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#311 Re: Strings
March 15, 2022, 04:33:20 pm
I usually just look at the linear density in grams per metres. That is less variable between measurements and tells me pretty much the same thing as the diameter.

Also, some ropes get really fat with age. A really old joker that has been cut down from 80 to 50 m looks like an indoor centre rope, it barely passes through the grigri2

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8796
  • Karma: +271/-42
#312 Re: Strings
June 01, 2023, 01:01:30 pm
Anybody any experience of the Mammut Crag We Care 9.5?

deeba

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 6
  • Karma: +0/-0
#313 Re: Strings
June 01, 2023, 03:07:29 pm
I bought one recently for a three week trip. Handled really nicely and not even close to being needed to cut after the trip.

deeba

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 6
  • Karma: +0/-0
#314 Re: Strings
June 01, 2023, 03:09:41 pm
Oops. Forget that. It was the Crag Classic I bought.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8796
  • Karma: +271/-42
#315 Re: Strings
June 06, 2023, 09:51:58 am
Haha no worries, thanks deeba!

Failing that, anyone got any recommendations for a good 70 m sport rope for Scottish use, at a good price? Ta!

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4142
  • Karma: +128/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#316 Re: Strings
June 06, 2023, 09:54:50 am
Just give it a puny, it's a mammut 9.5 so I imagine it'll be great....

GazM

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 508
  • Karma: +27/-0
    • Highland ramblings
#317 Re: Strings
June 06, 2023, 10:46:35 am
I've been using a Simond 9.5mm rope for a few years and have no complaints at all, in fact Andy you belayed me on it on Katy Morag at Camus an Leim.
To be fair I don't use it enough to be able to say whether it's significantly different to the many other ropes on the market, but it does the job for me and I'd happily get another when the time comes.

teestub

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2432
  • Karma: +159/-4
  • Cyber Wanker
#318 Re: Strings
June 06, 2023, 02:20:21 pm
Oops. Forget that. It was the Crag Classic I bought.

This looks to be the same rope without residual yarn of the 'we care' one https://www.mammut.com/uk/en/products/2010-04470/9-5-crag-we-care-classic-rope

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8796
  • Karma: +271/-42
#319 Re: Strings
June 07, 2023, 09:35:37 am
Yes I believe it is, was just wondering about how the residual yarn performed, shouldn't really be any different to normal should it?

Ali/Gaz, thanks!

csl

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 776
  • Karma: +91/-2
#320 Re: Strings
June 25, 2023, 08:39:13 pm
I need some new half ropes, and I'm looking at the Simond Rappel 8.6 or the Beal Cobra 8.6.

Anyone used any of those and like them, or anything else I should consider instead?

One thing on my mind is whether these days I should just buy a pair of thin triple rated ropes like the Beal Opera, but that would be a lot more expensive.

duncan

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2838
  • Karma: +323/-2
#321 Re: Strings
June 26, 2023, 09:31:47 am
I need some new half ropes, and I'm looking at the Simond Rappel 8.6 or the Beal Cobra 8.6.

Anyone used any of those and like them, or anything else I should consider instead?

I'd consider something lighter. I got 50m x 8mm Mammuts a few years ago with a view to using them in the Dolomites and such like but I've since appreciated the weight saving on UK routes and walk-ins. They are wearing well. I've fallen on them occasionally and the stretch doesn't seem excessive. If I did a lot of easy trad. and/or mostly climbed on grit I might choose something burlier.

Discussion of thinner ropes here. TL/DR: Beal Icelines are too stretchy for most people.

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2999
  • Karma: +146/-5
#322 Re: Strings
June 26, 2023, 09:47:40 am
Iíve just bought a Petzl Tango 8.5mm. Seems v nice. It was cheap and I guess my rationale is buy cheap and replace more often. Rather than feeling like you need to get Ďvalueí out of your very expensive Beal. I also climb on Grit mostly and seem to fall off a lot nowadays.

csl

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 776
  • Karma: +91/-2
#323 Re: Strings
June 26, 2023, 10:36:53 am
I need some new half ropes, and I'm looking at the Simond Rappel 8.6 or the Beal Cobra 8.6.

Anyone used any of those and like them, or anything else I should consider instead?

I'd consider something lighter. I got 50m x 8mm Mammuts a few years ago with a view to using them in the Dolomites and such like but I've since appreciated the weight saving on UK routes and walk-ins. They are wearing well. I've fallen on them occasionally and the stretch doesn't seem excessive. If I did a lot of easy trad. and/or mostly climbed on grit I might choose something burlier.

Discussion of thinner ropes here. TL/DR: Beal Icelines are too stretchy for most people.

Interesting, I think I've been put off by a tendon "8mm" I bought a while ago which feels climbing on like dental floss. I remember that thread now and will have another look paying attention to grams per meter instead of just diameter.

Fultonius

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4142
  • Karma: +128/-3
  • Was strong but crap, now weaker but better.
    • Photos
#324 Re: Strings
June 26, 2023, 12:05:27 pm
2nd the 8mm Mammuts plenty solid enough for alpine / big mountain / trad.

Having had a triple rated (that was bought, and handy, for a US trip) I feel they are very niche and you'll know if you need them. If you think you need half ropes, but are "considering" triples, don't bother. They have to sacrifice sheath for core to hit the strength requirements and hence are less abrasion resistant in my experience.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2023, SimplePortal