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Strings (Read 107230 times)

ShortRound

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#50 Re: Strings
July 22, 2011, 09:14:18 am

I can't get to the ebay link but from what you've posted above it seems to be a 9.8mm Edelrid? I have the eagle which is an 9.8mm Edelrid and it's a great rope. handling is superb and it remains slick after a lot of use.

Since getting an Edelrid half rope a few years back I've not bought another brand as I think they're really good. In my experience they're better handling and last longer than the mammut ones I've had.

Paul B

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#51 Re: Strings
July 22, 2011, 01:39:30 pm

TobyD

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#52 Re: Strings
July 25, 2011, 09:00:36 am
I was actually asking about the two ropes I linked to above

I have the Edelrid 9.8mm Boa. It seems to handle nicely, and i think the weight is a good compromise between drag / lightness and durability. It seems to pick up dust & dirt very easily, and not sure about the longevity yet, there is a little (minor) furring after 6 weeks ish use, but it has had a lot of use, so that's maybe not too bad.  Its ok so far, esp for a shade over a hundred for a 70m.

DaveyDave

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TobyD

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#54 Re: Strings
July 25, 2011, 05:19:22 pm
edelweiss have a good rep, but i have no specific experience of that rope.

mrjonathanr

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#55 Re: Strings
July 28, 2011, 09:56:51 am
Edelweiss have been around for a long time. I recently bought an 8.5 from snowandrock and it seems like a good rope, handles ok, tough-looking sheath construction - time will tell.

boulderingbacon

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#56 Re: Strings
August 25, 2011, 06:28:30 pm
Just bought a rope while on holiday(sterling velocity) and just got back to the place where I'm staying, uncoiled it and it has a small fur(maybe a nick) on the sheath about the size of a pencil. Should I take it back which is going to be really awkward because I'm leaving in the morning or is this ok?

Paul B

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#57 Re: Strings
August 27, 2011, 09:14:22 pm
I was using my beal joker and my Mammut Phoenix together as a versatile pair (without the need for three ropes), sadly the beal has been chopped, then chopped and then chopped some more so its now not so much use.

Any experience of 8mm (ish) offerings from
Edelrid
Sterling
and Mammut?

It seems like Bannanfingers are selling a 100m or 120m sterling bipolar for £150/175, that seems like a bargain to me for anybody needing a pair.

dave

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#58 Re: Strings
August 27, 2011, 09:33:35 pm
I hear pat king has some killer deals on half ropes right now.

Johnny Brown

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#59 Re: Strings
August 27, 2011, 10:12:54 pm
I've used Beal Icelines and Mammut Phoenix a lot over the last few years. No problems with either but I reckon the Beal has a tighter sheath and handles a bit better as a result. Worth choosing your belay device carefully if you're going down to 8mm ropes too.

Paul B

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#60 Re: Strings
August 27, 2011, 11:24:49 pm
I've got a Reverso 3, although its quite impressive how worn it is given its only 2 years old and I'm no mountain guide.

Muenchener

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#61 Re: Strings
August 28, 2011, 10:43:07 pm
I've got a Reverso 3, although its quite impressive how worn it is given its only 2 years old and I'm no mountain guide.

Poor durability - along with, er, price - seems to be part of the price we pay for the lightness of modern gear. My Black Diamond Gridlock belay krab has a distinct rope groove after only a few months' use. So does Frau M's. I have old skool round bar HMS krabs that have years of use and hardly any visible wear. Heavy though.

(The fiddliness of Gridlocks also more or less guarantees dropped belay devices on multipitch routes. They looked like a good idea on paper, but in practice I can't say I'm impressed)

robertostallioni

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#62 Re: Strings
August 28, 2011, 10:47:08 pm

(The fiddliness of Gridlocks also more or less guarantees dropped belay devices on multipitch routes. They looked like a good idea on paper, but in practice I can't say I'm impressed)


TobyD

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#63 Re: Strings
August 30, 2011, 09:14:55 am
Poor durability - along with, er, price - seems to be part of the price we pay for the lightness of modern gear. My Black Diamond Gridlock belay krab has a distinct rope groove after only a few months' use. So does Frau M's. I have old skool round bar HMS krabs that have years of use and hardly any visible wear. Heavy though.

yeah, the lightness seems to be at the price of narrow diameters on krabs, belay devices etc, and hence much higher wear rates. One would assume that narrower diameter krabs will also trash ropes much more quickly (i certainly seem to go through ropes like anything these days).

Paul B

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#64 Re: Strings
August 30, 2011, 10:03:03 am
Absolutely, I-beam constructed krabs (like the phantom) seem to be terrible for ropes. I've also just gone through the wear indicator on my current harness, I've had it a little under 2 years. My previous harness was retired simply because it was getting old enough to become scary.

mrjonathanr

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#65 Re: Strings
August 31, 2011, 10:28:12 am
Yeah lightweight vs durability, innit? I retired a Petzl Crux a couple of years ago when I looked at the belay loop and realised it was 18 years old. I swear I'd still trust my 30 yr old Troll Mark IV if I still had it.

Jim

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#66 Re: Strings
October 06, 2011, 12:05:46 pm
Without reading this entire thread, can someone recomend me a rope for general purpose use ie. trad, sport, bottom roping etc..
I presume a 50m rope would be more than enough length to cover every eventuality in the UK. Thickness? I've no idea but I don't want a very thin one.
Also I would like to get a rope bag as well so any recomendations there also appreciated.
Cheers

cheque

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#67 Re: Strings
October 06, 2011, 12:24:59 pm
Also I would like to get a rope bag as well so any recomendations there also appreciated.

I'm very pleased with my Rope Pod. It has to go inside
another rucksack for anything but the shortest car-crag trips (no shoulder straps) but is otherwise perfect, largely
due to having a lip that stops the rope slithering out of it.

Muenchener

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#68 Re: Strings
October 17, 2011, 06:13:15 pm
Climbed at the wall last week on my mate's 10mm Sterling that he bought in Arco at Easter and has used probably around three-four times a week since. It looked, felt and handled like new. I was impressed.

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#69 Re: Strings
October 17, 2011, 09:14:53 pm
Just got an Edilrid Boa 70m x 9.8 from GoOutdoors for £107. The test begins...

boulderingbacon

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#70 Re: Strings
October 21, 2011, 06:07:55 pm
my sterling evolution is awesome, everyone i climb with says how well its handles and it seems to be wearing well too.

Paul B

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#71 Re: Strings
December 24, 2011, 05:35:36 pm
Someone turned up at the Foundry with an 80m 9mm single by Simmond from Decathlon - £140

It looked pretty good, does anyone have any experience with these?

RichK

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#72 Re: Strings
February 17, 2012, 11:03:49 am
 After an 80m sport rope and came across this;

http://www.outdoor-ranger.co.uk/edelrid-boa-98mm-rope-p-15252.html?currency=GBP&language=gb

Looks too good to be true!

Picked up Toby's thoughts on this rope, anyone else got experience of using one?

Paul B

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#73 Re: Strings
February 17, 2012, 12:04:55 pm
I went for a similarly sized Edeldrid 80m rope, the one thing I will say is its damn heavy (not just to carry).

RichK

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#74 Re: Strings
February 17, 2012, 08:01:33 pm
 :-\ not good, cheers Paul.

 

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