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creamtime

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Joined
Feb 18, 2004
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3,896
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Devon
Any informed opinions on a good sport rope?

I gave Mammut Galaxys one more chance, and they are definitively :shit:
I am after 9.5-10mm ish, 60 or 70m. Doesn't have to be super light, but not a cable, and reasonably hard wearing. I'll pay more if its not going to die after a few months use, which to be honest is all my Galaxy has had. Obviously i'd like the moon on a stick of cheap / lasts forever / weighs nowt, but realistically - a good compromise between the three will do

Edelweiss 9.8 / Edelrid 9.7 ?? The Beal 10.2s seem ok, but a bit fatter than i would like.
 
I've been very happy with my Ocun, Holga recommended them to me - he's had a couple and reckons they last well.
 
Edelweiss 9.8 - had one of these at the start of the 6 monther, it didn't last well at all
Edelrid 9.7 - seem alright but love to coil
Beal Joker 9.1 - mine went fuzzy and flattened fast but seems to actually be wearing quite well now
Mammut vertex ~10 - just bought this as a wall rope, seems hard wearing but I'm guessing it'll turn into cabling.
Beal stinger 9.4(?) - other rope I had on the trip, this one far outlasted the Edelweiss and lasted a lot better than the current stinger.

I also have a Mammut half rope (the name escapes me) but its great, handles well and isn't showing any signs of wear.
 
Paul B said:
Mammut vertex ~10 - just bought this as a wall rope, seems hard wearing but I'm guessing it'll turn into cabling.

My Mammut Vertex does not seem to be lasting well. Used it a few weeks mainly indoors, then took it to Arco for two weeks where the sheath seemed to fuzz and nick alarmngly easily. Handling is still nice & soft though - although it occurs to me that "still nice & soft" and "fuzz alarmingly easily" may not be entirely unrelated phenomena.
 
Best rope i have ever had is a Mammut Revelation. I bought it as an 80m, and just kept chopping it when needed. Bought it 4 years ago for my long trip, and still got it now. Albeit, 56m's of it.
 
I'm also in the market for a new sport climbing rope. Agree about the Mammut galaxy and my experience of Beal ropes is they handle well but last about 5 minutes.

Anyone on here owned a Sterling rope? I've never had one but heard good things about them.
 
Price wise I imagine it'll be hard to beat Serpico's Megagrip deal. If you're after a higher end rope I've been very pleased with my Mammut Infinity, 9.5 mm, 58 g / m but still rated at 7/8 falls, handles and wears very well. Also came lap coiled so non of the tangle I usually get when attempting (failing!) to uncoil for the first time. Got mine from North West Face at a bargin price, seem to have gone up now but still pretty competitive.
 
Adam Lincoln said:
Best rope i have ever had is a Mammut Revelation. I bought it as an 80m, and just kept chopping it when needed. Bought it 4 years ago for my long trip, and still got it now. Albeit, 56m's of it.
:agree:
 
205Chris said:
Anyone on here owned a Sterling rope? I've never had one but heard good things about them.

I have the Sterling Nano (9.2?). It seems hard-wearing for a skinny rope but is a bit kinky, or perhaps that's just me? Groovy colours. Can be very cheap if bought in the USA, not cheap in the UK.
 
FWIW: when looking for a sport rope last year I was told [by bloke running the shop] that many of the main Euro manufacturers had recently (~2009) moved their rope-weaving operations to Madagascar. I think this included at least Beal & Mammut. Despite using the same materials, manuf equipment etc there'd been a noticeable drop in quality - climbing walls were first to notice, sending ropes back as they'd worn out in half the expected time.
Any road up - his recommendation was to go for Edelrid since they were still manufacturing in Europe.
 
I was glad we had a 70m rope when I missed the ab-point on 2 x 50m abseil in Verdon, on stretch just reached a point where I could untie and scramble down (although I did have prussiks and a tibloc for such situations).
 
moodyboy said:
Just looked at my join up date and realised I had been lurking for nearly 2 years..... Hello :wave:


Any opinions on Tendon? Looking to get my first rope for a Verdon/calanque/St Victoire escapade

rope as in singular for the Verdon? Bad plan if so, even an 80 doubled won't get you down some of the abs. Plus, some of the lines in the guide are a bit suspect and leave you (this happened to multiple teams) on much longer finishing pitches.

Calanques, pitches seem to be 30m in general. The weather can change very quickly from ridiculous sunshine to drowned rat so make sure you can ab (the ab achors as marked in the guide in the majority aren't used and are in varying states of decay). If you venture to en Vau, take some tat and a maillon. The walk and ab off leaves you with the choice of a fairly worn bolt (singular) or a tree that is being ruined by many abs (I didn't have tat).

I'd also advise not buying the Cote D'Azur guide and buying the local topo instead. Blanket use of the 'need gear' symbol renders it irrelevant, plus the descriptions are spectacularly lacking at times and it seems like the 'loose-rock' symbol has been put in willy nilly and neglected from climbs which are severely loose (think rocking pillar two body lengths long which you HAVE to climb). /rant
 
slack---line said:
Sounds like you had a great trip (pics certainly make it look like you did). :)

LX5's are THAT good, almost like a D3s. In all seriousness I/we did, the guide didn't leave me impressed but thats another thread that should probably go unopened.
 
Paul B said:
moodyboy said:
Just looked at my join up date and realised I had been lurking for nearly 2 years..... Hello :wave:


Any opinions on Tendon? Looking to get my first rope for a Verdon/calanque/St Victoire escapade

rope as in singular for the Verdon? Bad plan if so, even an 80 doubled won't get you down some of the abs. Plus, some of the lines in the guide are a bit suspect and leave you (this happened to multiple teams) on much longer finishing pitches.

Calanques, pitches seem to be 30m in general. The weather can change very quickly from ridiculous sunshine to drowned rat so make sure you can ab (the ab achors as marked in the guide in the majority aren't used and are in varying states of decay). If you venture to en Vau, take some tat and a maillon. The walk and ab off leaves you with the choice of a fairly worn bolt (singular) or a tree that is being ruined by many abs (I didn't have tat).

I'd also advise not buying the Cote D'Azur guide and buying the local topo instead. Blanket use of the 'need gear' symbol renders it irrelevant, plus the descriptions are spectacularly lacking at times and it seems like the 'loose-rock' symbol has been put in willy nilly and neglected from climbs which are severely loose (think rocking pillar two body lengths long which you HAVE to climb). /rant

Cheers for the info. Very usefull

Can you smell the novice?I think I should of expanded a bit there. Might be giving out visions of rapping into the void on a short rope & a prayer after completing my first 5+ at the local wall. I won't bore you with the details but I do understand what I could be getting into, particularly Verdon.

I am using the trip out as an excuse to finally buy one instead of begging borrowing,stealing everyone elses.
 
I bought an Edelrid Python from CragX at the start of last summer. 10mm x 70m. Great value and i've been really impressed with its handling and durability.
 


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