[moose]

Bad news.  Some idiots have knackered Pedestal Arete at Caley.  A camp fire lit at its base has caused huge lumps of rock to delaminate from the bottom 2ft of the arete (with the rest of it covered in soot).  I was too upset to thoroughly investigate the damage but I can't imagine the sit start is climbable (no photographs I'm afraid).

Really quite pissed off at the needless stupidity of it all - I was already annoyed enough by the chalk grafitti and massive tickmarks everywhere.  Next election, I'm voting for whichever party will equip park rangers with guns (failing that, I'll look on ebay and see whether there's one of those cobalt radiation bombs for sale - the type that gets rid of all life but leaves buildings/crags standing!).

[Stubbs]

Yeah saw this when I was back oop north last week.  I think it will still be climbable, but needs a serious scrubbing to remove the soot, and there's a large flake which has delammed to come off.  Idiots.

[Robl]

Bad times... well at least I can use that as an excuse for not ticking the sit (not that i'm too scarred to that sharp crystal on the slopey dish.)

[Stubbs]

Just HTFU and crimp that crystal!

[Bonjoy]

Have, human, homme, huckle? Is this the official sausage approved version of MTFU?

[fried]

Some kind of skinny hamburger perhaps?

[slackline]

Have, human, homme, huckle? Is this the official sausage approved version of MTFU?

Homo sapiens?

[SA Chris]

Haul The Fuck Up?

[slackline]

 

[Stubbs]

[Robl]

Choppa! Take your skirt off, grow a moustache and harden the f**k up!

[uptown]

Bad news.  Some idiots have knackered Pedestal Arete at Caley.  A camp fire lit at its base has caused huge lumps of rock to delaminate from the bottom 2ft of the arete (with the rest of it covered in soot).  I was too upset to thoroughly investigate the damage but I can't imagine the sit start is climbable (no photographs I'm afraid).

Slowly now moose, like a phoenix from the flames...
The 7b+/c version with the jug is still climbable and I should expect the 7c+ will be fine if a kind-minded soul would scrub off the soot and stabilise the new sandy patches.

[huwtj]

Just been up there and taken a few pics of the damage:







It does look like most of the holds have survived. There was already chalk on the new sandy undercut so there's definite need for some damage limitation!

[sjw]

Wow. I didn't realise how much a fire could damage rock- that's a right mess. Even if it is still climbable, I wouldn't take much enjoyment from pulling on a boulder that looks as trashed as that.

[moose]

Aye - I was genuiney grief-stricken when I saw it! Wandering around, muttering angrily like a dazed tramp.  PA was one of the main projects I was working towards and had been looking forward to tackling over my winter lay-off. 

I don't think I could bear to pull on now - exacerbating the damage would just depress me.  Maybe I'm getting (senti)mental in my old age, but climbing using such eroded holds would strike me as an act of abuse to an already battered child(!)  I rarely climbed at Bowden Doors for much the same reason - you could see the damage increasing after every visit.

[uptown]

Just been up there and taken a few pics of the damage:



It does look like most of the holds have survived. There was already chalk on the new sandy undercut so there's definite need for some damage limitation!

The first picture helps to show that none of the handholds have suffered bar the sooting. The footholds are still mostly ok too, it does look a disgrace and will take some tlc to help blend back yet with some stabilising and a yard-brush it'll be ok. As I said the 7b+ climbs exactly the same (It might be my chalk as I did it last wednesday, usual method) but I've not done 'entering the dragon' so can only guess that it's unchanged. The sooner someone gets their special juice on the sandy footers and sandy undercut the better. Any takers or shall we leave it as a testament to the pyro's?

[tomtom]

Uptown, I'm not around enough to be Florence Nightingale on this occasion-  but do you or anyone know what the 'magic elixir of gritstone stabilisation' is? For future reference etc..?

[Charlton Chestwig]

Afternoon,
I'd be interested to know if ped arête sit or stand still get climbed these days and if they are much different to before the fire damage?
Cheers for any info.
Rich

[andy_e]

I did the sit a few weeks ago. It's apparently a bit harder than it used to be. I do the stand completely differently now to how I used to as the foot I used to stand on with my right has gone, but now I do it locked in over my left foot.

[36chambers]

I did the sit a few weeks ago. It's apparently a bit harder than it used to be. I do the stand completely differently now to how I used to as the foot I used to stand on with my right has gone, but now I do it locked in over my left foot.

Good to hear, it's on my winter list and when I last looked it was pretty green.

Afternoon,
I'd be interested to know if ped arête sit or stand still get climbed these days and if they are much different to before the fire damage?
Cheers for any info.
Rich

They have both seen quite a bit of attention in the past year





(Peewee's sit beta is only useful if you're ridiculously strong.)

[andy_e]

When did you last look beast? I caught it on a good day; it's rained and snowed ever since.

[36chambers]

When did you last look beast? I caught it on a good day; it's rained and snowed ever since.

Maybe 3 or 4 weeks ago. The rest of the crag was quite damp, but the seepage from the plants above the arete made it look particularly bad.

[peewee]

(Peewee's sit beta is only useful if you're ridiculously strong.)

Oddly I find this sequence easier than the original,  skips out the nasty pebble!

[36chambers]

Oddly I find this sequence easier than the original,  skips out the nasty pebble!

It's the deep LF flag move I find impossible

I've resorted to using a LF heel in the roof instead. 

[Andy F]

Good to see proper spotting skills from Baz and CBA 

[peewee]

Almost a true Lancastrian spot although nobody is smoking a tab but baz is rolling one.