Easiest way to do crux of Sardine... (Read 2105 times)


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Easiest way to do crux of Sardine...
April 27, 2011, 10:44:05 am
I'm going to go to the Tor over the long weekend to have another look at Sardine.

I've been on it once before and it feels pretty much at my limit.

The way most people seem to do the crux is to traverse right over to the big flat jug, put LH in a sidepull pocket, RH up to a little pinchy sidepull, build feet, LH to big undercut...not sure then but building feet and hands up on the undercuts til you get to the jug seems to work.

My mate insists his beta is better - he goes up in a diagonal before getting to the big flat jug and undercuts. He uses a little RH sidepull to get his feet up, LH on a crimp, RH on an undercut, LH up to a crimp, RH across then LH into the jug at the end of the crux.

Any advice/tips/beta on how the crux worked for you?




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The way your mate is doing it is definitely easier especially so for the tall and probably makes the route 7b overall. It's not the classic way to do the crux though which you are trying.

When you get the pinchy sidepull with a high right foot come into a small undercut by your chest  then go again with right hand to pinch a small sticky out flying saucer shaped hold, do some feet shuffling, left hand across to the lower of two undercuts, right hand again to a high gaston on a black knobble, more feet shuffling, left foot up to the foothold below the sidepull pocket (or the foothold below that depending on reach) then reach up precariously with left hand to sinker sidepull pocket just above where your right hand is.

(May have not got it exactly right)
« Last Edit: April 27, 2011, 11:26:59 am by shark »


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I seem to remember holding a bad hold for my left hand or possibly my right hand and it was pretty damn reachy. There is a good thumblock rest after the crux. HTH (!)


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