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"Spanish Granite bouldering" or "How to make your fingers bleed" (Read 1741 times)

Oldmanmatt

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Finally checked out Can Bouquet, yesterday. I eyeballed several of the sectors but settled for a session on sector Classica. A couple of locals that I hooked up with there enthusiastically showed me around (frankly the maps in the topo are seriously sketchy and a little prior planning on google earth was stumped by the tree cover) and stated in no uncertain terms that Sector Nou is the star spot. My/our intention to move down to sector Nou (a short walk down the hill from Classica) was buggered by a sudden thunder storm and a 500m sprint for cars :furious:.
There are 25 sectors in the topo I got hold of and several hundred problems from 3 to >8a. I'd forgotten how much those sharp, flakey crimps hurt and I had to accept a grade drop in my aspirations (it was like trying to do lock offs and pull throughs on the edge of a broken CD!!!) :wall:. The Granite has, in most sectors, inclusions that make for an interesting variety within the problems (They call them "Potatos") and the sectors vary in chrystal sizes from really quite smooth to very coarse.
 Good location and will take me a while to explore it all. Most of the sectors are shady and it's 20min from BCN.
It's in a National Park, so I guess there shouldn't be any sudden changes to access, although parking is restricted to certain spots (shown in the topo). They (you know "THEY") have been clearing the undergrowth over the winter around the main sectors, so although it has opened it up (and uncovered forgotten boulders) there was a lot of cut underbrush clogging the paths; I would guess this will soon flatten down.
It's dirt road access, for several k's from the main roads, and was steep. Like driving on marbles. I had a Jeep and I put into 4wd to climb up and was grateful for it; on the otherhand, my local hosts turned up in a knackered VW camper! Either they know a better way in or I'm getting girly in my old age.
Some great problems here and worth a visit.
I found the place through the climb in spain site, usefull all round and with plenty of links to topos and info on crags and areas:
   http://climbinspain.com/category/bouldering/
 :goodidea:

 

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