[andy_e]

For those of use jaded, those of us who dislike sport climbing and those of us for whom there is no local limestone bouldering, can anybody think of any gritstone boulder problems that are in decent nick or aren't affected too much by sweat and grease? Obviously, moorland grit is in its prime this time of year but for a quick session it's a bit far out of reach. Any ideas? Only a few spring to mind for me, the Keel, Underhand, Demon Wall roof problems (except Stu's)... Any non-cliff suggestions?



(Yorkshire mainly, but any if any peakophiles can suggest some down that way too, feel free to do so!)

[John Gillott]

Not so much a list of problems as a suggestion to think about times when particular problems will be in the shade and to combine that with an assessment of when they might have a breeze blowing on to them. It wasn't bouldering but, for e.g., we did routes early in the day at Higgar last June when it was shaded and a W/NW wind was blowing - there was a hint of hot aches at first! Plenty of routes or problems on edges in the peak will be in the shade till midday and a westerly / northwesterly wind will blow on to them. A few, such as Burbage West, Higgar bouldering, Cowperstone, Apparent North, will be shaded from mid afternoon, though I'm guessing that it would take a peculiar weather pattern to have a cool breeze blowing on to them in summer

[DaveyDave]

It's a bit mixed but there's some decent stuff at burbage south. Was there today and the shady stuff seemed ok.

[AlistairB]

It's not a fashionable venue at present but as an Ilkley local I've been heading up to the moor for some evening sessions. Such is the aspect of the cow that the stuff facing that way is in the shade from nice and early on (I head up at 6 usually but they're well in the shade by then, should be good from at least 4 I'd guess).

There's the whole back side of the calf, Baby Spice, the Bald Pate problems (not tried personally) and Ringpiece (though this gets the sun till a fair bit later). Haven't tried Lost Boots / Olicana, can be pretty fluorescent green and will be in the sun probably almost all afternoon/evening.

Conditions were lovely tonight, a nice breeze. Also so far no midges but that probably won't last much longer!

[Andy F]

Longridge gets the shade from mid-afternoon, but it may be a bit of a trip for an evening session.

[tomtom]

For those of use jaded, those of us who dislike sport climbing and those of us for whom there is no local limestone bouldering, can anybody think of any gritstone boulder problems that are in decent nick or aren't affected too much by sweat and grease? Obviously, moorland grit is in its prime this time of year but for a quick session it's a bit far out of reach. Any ideas? Only a few spring to mind for me, the Keel, Underhand, Demon Wall roof problems (except Stu's)... Any non-cliff suggestions?

(Yorkshire mainly, but any if any peakophiles can suggest some down that way too, feel free to do so!)

Mainly cliff suggestions! For the summer cliff afficionado (as I have been..) DWR area gets the sun from 10:30-11 onwards (so get there early). Morrels wall eliminates etc stay cool late in the day.. Thought about top cat trav? THats on the shady side of the Virgin...

My other summer non-lime haunts are Wimberry (because its just too green in winter) though it does get sweaty and shreds your hands... Harmers wood (shady sandstone)... I also go to slipstones every now and then in the Summer.. for some reason the rock there doesnt seem to get as greasy as the grid further down south, and as its higher/moorland its cooler and theres also less pollen (a summer problem of mine...)...

being somewhere exposed and windy seems to make quite a difference.. which is why the cliff often still works fine in the summer...


edit  - I forgot about Wetherby... ah, its the dogshit and broken glass that puts me off,...

[turnipturned]

Good limestone 45 mins away. But if you want to suffer two squirrels block is allllllllreeeet at the moment (two weeks ago) or whitehouses!

[chris05]

Not Yorkshire but...Jerry's traverse at Cratcliffe.

Not Grit or Yorkshire but... the Churnet is great, with Wrights being particularly shady

[Jim]

earl

[Beastio]

Its about time you came the cave and got spanked I think Emery, do you not get bored of Almscliff?

[andy_e]

Yes, but then I have another 40 or so grit crags in the vicinity.

[stokesy]

Bit of a drive from yorkshire but ramshaw can be pretty shady in places on a summer afternoon, still needs a breeze though. Some of the southern grit stuff can be good if the trees are providing a bit of shade, same for bits of froggatt. Not sure about burbage south, always seems to be a sweaty hellhole whenever I go in summer.

[slackline]

Not bouldering but the moorland edges are good in summer, particularly the north facing edges on Kinder and Bleaklow.

[cofe]

look at what breeze there might be too. Derwent Edges and Grinah Stones on Bleaklow both good unless it's totally boiling.

[SA Chris]

earl

Good choice, for the next few months, but unless wind is blowing in the right direction it can be a midge infested death inferno. How About the high moorland crags; Earl's, Lord's, Simon's Seats. On the occasion I've been up cragging up at Simon's in summer it's been OK.

[andy_e]

Obviously, moorland grit is in its prime this time of year but for a quick session it's a bit far out of reach.

I love Simon's/Lord's/never been to Rylstone but can imagine it would be awesome too but I can't pop there in the evening or of a weekday afternoon! Thanks for the suggestions so far though... I always forget about Earl, lurking all the way over there.

[SA Chris]

Never been to Rylstone! My favourite Yorkshire crag, no finer day can be had than walking the length of the crag, picking plums to lead, solo or boulder, with a fitting finale doing White Doe / Poetry in Motion / Emily Norton . Faces west though, so gets all the sun from mid afternoon til dusk.

[andy popp]

Not bouldering but the moorland edges are good in summer, particularly the north facing edges on Kinder and Bleaklow.

The north-facing edges on Kinder in summer are probably the worst midge-hell I've ever experienced.

[slackline]

Sssh!

Breezy days are ok though.

[tomtom]

Sssh!

Breezy days are ok though.

I'm thinking a name change for you could be in order 

sand---bag 

[slackline]

Really there shouldn't be any issue with conditions-dependent problems, look at what Toru Nakajima got up to in one day back in 2009, and he did loads of other stuff whilst he was over here in far from optimal conditions.

Come on andi_e, just MTFU.

[andy_e]

Did you miss the part about the moorland edges being too far to reach of an evening?

[tomtom]

Bits of Brimham (its got plenty of nooks and crannies to keep out of the sun..)?

[slackline]

Did you miss the part about the moorland edges being too far to reach of an evening?

Yes.

[moose]

Not that I have much understanding of your problem (the grit season's only just started for me) but how about Chariots of Fire Eliminate at Ilkley?

It's in the Olicana area (vid on yorkshiregrit).  It's an eliminate arse drag but has good moves, is about the right grade (7b+), always shady and always dry.  Hell, it might even be easier for the non-lank monsters (I found the hardest bit was turning the final lip for the arete ... which is the finish of a 6b/c'ish problem!).  It was my "getting back on rock" project of last spring/summer.

[Will Hunt]

never been to Rylstone

[andy_e]

Not that I have much understanding of your problem (the grit season's only just started for me) but how about Chariots of Fire Eliminate at Ilkley?

I was thinking about going there to try that today but went elsewhere instead. Always meant to get back on it!

[fatneck]

What Jim said...

Just got back from a fantastic day at Earl. Climbed with a fleece on most of the day! Also worth checking out the Hitching Stone, very exposed and with a cold wind like today all the grips felt grippy! Worth going soon as the approach is currently bone dry! Well worth the 20 minute walk.