[i_a_coops]

Since my finger isn't feeling too frisky at the moment, Three Nine suggested I should get better at various things that I suck at: trad, slabs and cracks. For some reason I want to try some offwidths but the only ones I can think of are Goliath and Ray's Roof (and I think I should try some easier one's before Ray's...). Searching for 'Offwidth' doesn't really work unfortunately!

Likewise, some recommendations for slabs that don't involve boning the life out of pebbles/crimps, great big rounded aretes, slopey horrors and so forth would be really appreciated.

In the spirit of 'trad climbs for sport climbers', I'm sure a general list of 'Routes suitable for finger injuries' could be useful to other people out there at some point, given the number of 'my finger hurts' threads 

ideas so far:

Archangel
Goliath
Ray's Roof

[lagerstarfish]

Having been the victim of numerous finger injuries, I can only recommend doing easy routes.

when my fingers have been bad...

     hanging around to place gear has hurt my fingers

     jambing has hurt my fingers

     holding tiny things on slabs has hurt my fingers

bouldering is suitable because you can just let go if it feels like you are going to hurt yourself

sport climbing is almost like this

I have messed myself up loads of times trying to do routes with fucked fingers

be careful etc.

[mrjonathanr]

Perhaps you could do a tour of grit edges collecting hand-jamming trophies? I'd start at Stanage or Millstone, though Valkyrie (Froggatt) should be included. Don't remember pitch 2 as finger unfriendly so you could add that too.

[i_a_coops]

when my fingers have been bad...

     hanging around to place gear has hurt my fingers

     jambing has hurt my fingers

     holding tiny things on slabs has hurt my fingers

I think you're right unfortunately. I'm determined to get on some offwidths though, I reckon whole body jamming should be ok (well, ok for my fingers, if not the rest of my body...)

[tommytwotone]

What Lagers said (and I can't believe he gave you that for free!  )

On the assumption that jamming is OK, how about The File and Bond Street?

If you're going to Froggatt there's that E1 jamming roof crack (is it Strappotente??) but the only time I've gone to do it I was holding a mate's ropes and it looked like a mission. It started pissing down just as I tied on for the second and I thanked my lucky stars!

[Wood FT]

Strapiombo

[tommytwotone]

Strapiombo

That's the one.

If you're after full body jamming, there's always Obscenity at Burbage North, Straight Ahead at Stanage Plantation and Bollard Crack at Froggatt...all cracks where you'll be glad you've worn old clothes you don't mind trashing!

[Tommy]

I think you're right unfortunately. I'm determined to get on some offwidths though, I reckon whole body jamming should be ok (well, ok for my fingers, if not the rest of my body...)

Ooooooh yeah. Too right!! 

Get dirty and get brawling. Don't forget though, by the end of it you'll be just like me - a bit better at offwidths and have forking weak fingers. Then you'll have no choice but to never touch a crimp again!

[Tommy]

Before you start on some of the routes, if you want to brush up your technique on boulders, here's suggestions:

In order of difficulty (and certainly not quality!) the following cracks/jamming should keep you amused:

20 ft Crack (Burbage)
Great Slab Roof Crack (Froggatt)
The Abyss (Rowtor)
Look at Me (Cratcliff/RHS)
Definitive 5.12 (Burbage)
Jam and Blast It (Rowtor)
Definitive 5.11 (Burbage)
The Kursk (Burbage)
Savage Me Softly (Cowper)
Jackaloupe (Moorside)
Picalli's Pickle (Robin Hood's Stride)
Zippatrocity (Cowper)
Bob Marley Extension (Cowper)

Good luck with that new-found technique!

[remus]

Hercules, Elder crack, Right Eliminate and Left Eliminate, all at curbar, contain some high quality offwidthing.

[slackline]

Hercules, Elder crack, Right Eliminate and Left Eliminate, all at curbar, contain some high quality offwidthing.

Whilst you're there you may as well do Peapod too, not really off-width, but you don't have to rely on finger strength much.

[JacobJacob]

Masters Edge 

come Millstone on Tuesday anyway and get jamming!

[Pebblespanker]

On the Stanage day you might also want to try these slabby finger friendly aretes :

Don
Argus
Cinturato

Other aretes

Slips Arete
The Clasp

For jamming/offwidths you might want to add the following classics to your list 

Sentinel Crack
Emerald Crack
The Vice

Good luck!

[i_a_coops]

I think I've managed to injure myself beyond the realms of this thread unfortunately,

Masters Edge 

turned out to be a route TO injure climbers rather than FOR...

I love the idea of doing Don with a broken foot..... 



What would Jerry do?