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West Side Story - "First female ascent" - is it? (Read 11052 times)

Bubba

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As reported on Planetfear

I find it hard to believe it's the first female ascent...but then I don't know of anyone else who has done it either....

Whadya reckon? Must be several women capable of this, surely?

(not trying to belittle Jenny Woodward's ascent btw - it's a fine effort and one day maybe even I'll get up the bloody thing  :roll: )

a dense loner

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lisa rands must have done this when she was over surely? don't have any clue but she must have been shown the delights of burbage west.
good effort by jenny!

dave

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don't really know if its that impressive really - I mean don't get me wrong its a good effort when anyone does it cos its hard, but maybe not newsworthy. For a start you would guess that she's smaller than your average bloke, but then i bet some really small blokes have done it over the years.

LJ

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Was on work placement with Lucy Atkinson about this time last year and at the time was close to nailing it, unfortunately i know no more

Paz

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Well some tall lass by the name of Parry did it about a year ago, and Kim's getting close isn't she?
 :wink:

dave

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if kim did it maybe that would be the first ginger/auburn ascent. I bet planetfear would love to get their hands on that scoop. :shock:

can anyone confirm any other certified ginners have beat her to it?

Kim

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:321:

dave

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:up:

Doylo

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On the subject of WSS, do most people top it out these days or jump of at the jug (i've seen this happen on a few occasions). Personally i would have thought you'd have to top out to get the tick. Imagine getting to the lip on Midnight Lightning and jumping off!

dave

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most people i've tried it with have always intended to top it out. When i first got to the break i couldn't do the next bit (after the awkward crossover to the flatty), so had to go up again and thankfully did it that time.

have seen rain preventa  top-out though, when the lower section is dry.

Adam Lincoln

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Whenever ive done it, the tops been wet, so havent topped it out yet. Doesnt look very hard... You'd want it dry though!

dave

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top bit is only like 5c or summert, but its not a formality if you're already knackered from the bottom bit.

Adam Lincoln

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Quote from: "dave"
top bit is only like 5c or summert, but its not a formality if you're already knackered from the bottom bit.


:crying:

Doylo

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Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Whenever ive done it, the tops been wet, so havent topped it out yet. Doesnt look very hard... You'd want it dry though!


Another visit to Burbage West for you then :!:

dave

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i recon you could probably get away with jumping off if you've topped it out previously though. theres a bit of dignity in that at least.

On a similar theme i had to endure the indignity of falling off carnage at cuvier after getting the big round boss/jug thing. Don't ask. :cry:

Doylo

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Quote from: "dave"
i recon you could probably get away with jumping off if you've topped it out previously though. theres a bit of dignity in that at least.

On a similar theme i had to endure the indignity of falling off carnage at cuvier after getting the big round boss/jug thing. Don't ask. :cry:


Aye if you've done it once you can do what u like! Sounds like you seem to suffer from the same "easy top-out syndrome" as me Dave. I blame it on nerves! Stuck any more of them holds on yer woody yet?

Bubba

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Presumably you can get a good rest at the jugs?

How hard are the top moves? It looks like a pretty big flake to work your feet up onto the break where the jugs are, then a bit of a rounded top?

Adam Lincoln

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Quote from: "Chris Doyle"
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Whenever ive done it, the tops been wet, so havent topped it out yet. Doesnt look very hard... You'd want it dry though!


Another visit to Burbage West for you then :!:


Thats okay, need to finish off Westworld and Famous Grouse...  :roll:

You tried WW Chris? Right up your Street... I was slapping the break, and iam not exactly that tall. Reckon the Pasquill could reach the break from the undercuts  :roll:

dave

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Quote from: "Chris Doyle"
Aye if you've done it once you can do what u like! Sounds like you seem to suffer from the same "easy top-out syndrome" as me Dave. I blame it on nerves! Stuck any more of them holds on yer woody yet?


I've also fallen off the last move of incredible shaking man from sitting about half a dozen times - fuck me i felt absolutley rock bottom after that.

put a couple of holds on last nite with scouse, will put lots more small crimps on 2nite hopefully. Mmmmmm crimpy.

dave

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Quote from: "Bubba"
Presumably you can get a good rest at the jugs?

How hard are the top moves? It looks like a pretty big flake to work your feet up onto the break where the jugs are, then a bit of a rounded top?


for anyone like me who only does bouldering, or routes where you can shake out at every move, then no, its not a good rest! i ddin't even match on the jug, i had to blast straigh on up. if i stop on jugs i get pumped.

but if you were a steep trad/sport stamina jock then yes its a very good rest. after the jug at the end of the start you need to move up right to a sloper/flatty, which you need to not be wrong handed on, then pull up to a fingery part of the flake, then stand up for the top. the topout is fine.

Bubba

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I think if I ever get that far I'll fall off from the shock of it, anyway.

Doylo

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Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Quote from: "Chris Doyle"
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
Whenever ive done it, the tops been wet, so havent topped it out yet. Doesnt look very hard... You'd want it dry though!


Another visit to Burbage West for you then :!:


Thats okay, need to finish off Westworld and Famous Grouse...  :roll:

You tried WW Chris? Right up your Street... I was slapping the break, and iam not exactly that tall. Reckon the Pasquill could reach the break from the undercuts  :roll:


Nope, looks a bit grim, i dare say Pasquill would give it the same half hour treatment he gives most hard problems.

Doylo

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Quote from: "dave"
Quote from: "Chris Doyle"
Aye if you've done it once you can do what u like! Sounds like you seem to suffer from the same "easy top-out syndrome" as me Dave. I blame it on nerves! Stuck any more of them holds on yer woody yet?


I've also fallen off the last move of incredible shaking man from sitting about half a dozen times - fuck me i felt absolutley rock bottom after that.

put a couple of holds on last nite with scouse, will put lots more small crimps on 2nite hopefully. Mmmmmm crimpy.


U mean the slap to the ledge? not the last last move surely, if so you need to get your ass down that cellar and  get some stamina circuits on the go. You want to get some nice flat tiny wooden crimps  :lol:  you can barely hold and you'll have fingers of steel in no time!

dave

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Quote from: "Chris Doyle"

U mean the slap to the ledge? not the last last move surely,


yes the actual last moves, not the move to the ledge! its a long story. fucking hell i feel sick to the stomach just thinking about it.

Doylo

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fuck

cofe

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apparently jenny woodward is short, i.e. like 5'4" ish, or less - the physio who sorts me out at the minute is good friends with her and her boyfriend.....andy brown

i reckon its a good effort as i haven't topped it out, which was an ethical decision... :wink:

was it fuck. it was pissing it down the first time, and i was shagged after a beating at higgar east the 2nd time. and i couldn't do it last time i was there - i'll get my 4 E points one day just have to be happy with the 7a climbing :roll:

vive la france

Pantontino

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Dave, that is a truly astonishing power fade - it must be about 4c that last move!

Which hand do you go to the slopey ledge with?

dave

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right hand (assuming you mean the end of the crux of the sitter). it cut me to fucking shreds having to do that bit so many times. It was at the end of a very long day of hard sending though (jawbreaker flashed, fast cars flashed, closer flashed, brian spray, ysgo crack flashed and popcorn party lying down start).

I belive your publication may be bearing a likeness of me on that very day, i hope.

cofe

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damn right it had better be son. with my monica (geller) on the bottom.

bingo.

Omega

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Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
I was slapping the break, and iam not exactly that tall. Reckon the Pasquill could reach the break from the undercuts  :roll:


adam - what's the word on westworld?  i tried it once in pretty good nick and couldn't really get moving.  are you hold that slopey dish and going right hand for the break? i'm listening :dj:

Pantontino

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You believe right: full page in glorious black 'n' white.

Adam Lincoln

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Quote from: "Omega"
Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"
I was slapping the break, and iam not exactly that tall. Reckon the Pasquill could reach the break from the undercuts  :roll:


adam - what's the word on westworld?  i tried it once in pretty good nick and couldn't really get moving.  are you hold that slopey dish and going right hand for the break? i'm listening :dj:


Right hand undercut, outside left foot in good hold. Jump and and drop the right foot behindn to flagging. Then, get your right foot up onto break where undercut is. Take left foot out of pocket, and use it to push of to get sloping dish with left, then go again to one pebble, then again to another pebble. bring your right up then slap to break. Sticking it needs good frictionl which i havent had yet  :roll:

dave

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yeah tell me a-fucking-bout it! that was why it was particularly harrowing. shit i feel sick again.

dave

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Quote from: "Pantontino"
You believe right: full page in glorious black 'n' white.


word!

Omega

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cheers adam

cofe

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Quote from: "dave"
Quote from: "Pantontino"
You believe right: full page in glorious black 'n' white.


word!


word

 

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