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boulder grades into sport grades/conversion question (Read 10585 times)

Andy W

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Ok down in deepest Cornwall, we have no sport climbing and Carn Vellan as decreed by the BMC is now a trad crag.

So suggestions of some sport grades for boulder traverses would be useful, save me driving to Ansteys :)

6c+ (7 metres) into 7b+ (8 metres) = French Sport

7b+ into 7b+ (8 metres) = sport and boulder grade

found this http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/general/gradetables.html  which is the first time I've seen a conversion for boulder traverses into sport grades.

opinions anyone?
 

slackline

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Andy W

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yea I've seen that, but then doesn't help with grades of link ups, which was my question.

slackline

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Sorry that wasn't clear from...

Ok down in deepest Cornwall, we have no sport climbing and Carn Vellan as decreed by the BMC is now a trad crag.

So suggestions of some sport grades for boulder traverses would be useful, save me driving to Ansteys :)

6c+ (7 metres) into 7b+ (8 metres) = French Sport

7b+ into 7b+ (8 metres) = sport and boulder grade

found this http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/general/gradetables.html  which is the first time I've seen a conversion for boulder traverses into sport grades.

opinions anyone?

Link-ups aren't explicitly mentioned once?  :shrug:

jwi

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Depends.  Fb 7a boulder on open two-finger pockets into 7a stamina on two-finger pockets may be 8a, but the same boulder into 7a stamina on jugs may be 7b+.

Andy W

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ok so the 6c+ (7 metres) into 7b+ (8 metres) is all overhanging, small holds with one hard section, but generally all sustained, no rests.

7b+ into 7b+ (8 metres) is again sustained, with a hard final two moves, again all steep on small holds.


superfurrymonkey

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Add the two grades together add 4 then divide by 2. For instance Left wall traverse into the start of Rock atrocity is V11 (or it used to be) continued into the finish of RA is V12. 11+9+4/2=12 ta da. It seems to work with most link ups!

Serpico

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Add the two grades together add 4 then divide by 2. For instance Left wall traverse into the start of Rock atrocity is V11 (or it used to be) continued into the finish of RA is V12. 11+9+4/2=12 ta da. It seems to work with most link ups!

So a V2 traverse into a V8 traverse would be V7?
I think I've spotted a flaw :-\

Dexter

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also linking 10 V2's = V12? think this only works for links up to three problems that are similarly graded
edit: not trying to knock the system as it works pretty well in a lot of cases

superfurrymonkey

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It only works with highish grades, but you wouldn't expect a V12 into a V2 to alter the grade would you  :shrug: There was a thread on this http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8820.msg138492.html#msg138492

 

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