[priscilla wimbush]

It was mentioned in the Malham thread that Trollers didn't have a conditions report page, so here it is. Worth noting that it's probably one of the most reliable of the Yorkshire limestone venues suitable for year round sport if you get the right time of day and wind conditions. Great routes from easy to 8b, all well bolted. Lovely walk-in and unique ambience. Post away.

[priscilla wimbush]

Went up to Trollers today, everything dry and lovely conditions for climbing in the shade most of the day.

[uptown]

Nice today, crisp and cool and a nice breeze blowing through.
Get there before the midges this season.

[uptown]

I've had a few queries about the new lines and projects at Trollers recently so thought I'd throw y'all a topo.
It's a great spot for boulderers to crossover to sport climbing - atypical Yorkshire style really.



I've not put all the lines on for clarity, and the right-hand buttress is well documented elsewhere.
(Don't miss the Jim grin - the best 7a in Yorkshire!)

ANGELIC UPSTART   7a *
SPENT YOUTH   7b/+ **
THE TINDERBOX   7c+ ** Nicely bouldery.
MAY I ALWAYS SEE GREEN   8a+/b? Closed project.
SMOULDERING GLOBULES OF LUST   7b+/c **
JAMES' PROJECT   8b? Closed project, not marked on topo.
THE VELVETEEN RABBIT   8b *** Unrepeated.
MODDEY DHOO   8a+ * Link TVR into a traverse rightwards to AH at half-height. Not marked on topo.
WABBIT AND LAMB   8a+ ** Link AH start into TVR crux. Not marked on topo.
ANGEL HEART   7c+ ** Harder and better since a hold fell off from the crux bulge. 4th clip now tricky.
HOODOO GURU   7b ** Left and right starts are both similar in difficulty.
KICK MY HABIT   7b+ ** The direct up the CT wall, crux moves gain HG to finish.
ANGEL DUST   7a+ ** Start to the right, across and up the groove and a belay above its end.
COLD TURKEY   7b ** Start as for AD then up the right side of the wall above.

Any feedback kindly accepted here.

[chris_j_s]

Cheers for this - its on my list of places to visit.

The topo is a little confusing on the right though - I wonder if some numbering top and bottom and, where appropriate, on the correct lines would help?

I assume from the descriptions that you've coloured the lines differently but I can't really see the difference on my monitor unfortunately.

Thanks.

[uptown]

Shucks yep, black and blue.
If you are heading that way Chris you can pm me for a better topo.
Paul Clarke is also updating the mini-guide for the YMC/Leeds wall website.

[Will Hunt]

Any ideas what it will be like tomorrow, given that its due to piss down? Does it stay dry in the wet? Has it seeped?

[nik at work]

It does seep, but not much. However it will get wet from run off after a spell of sustained rain. Also after rain the "dry riverbed" at the base of the crag becomes a river. You can generally get to the crag and climb if you have wellies but it's an effort and the river is VERY noisy. Probably be really midgey if it's still.

I say all of the above having not been to the crag for a year or so, a report from the coalface would probably be more useful...

[moose]

I can't give an up to date report (I was last there a fortnight ago).  But I have visited Trollers a fair bit this year so can provide a general heads-up. 

Nik's right about it hardly seeping and the routes do stay largely dry during showers (though some of the lower offs can get a bit damp).  However, if it does chuck it down, your belayer might get wet - the shelter of the crag doesn't extend much from the crag base.  I reckon it's unlikely the recent rainfall has been heavy or continuous enough to flood the stream bed at the moment.  So far as I know, it flooded at the peak of the deluges at the end of June / early July but not during the common-or-garden terrible weather before or afterwards.

[Will Hunt]

Cheers for the responses.

So to cut to the bottom line: will we have more fun at Trollers or on our (road) bikes?

[Paul B]

I went (again) last weekend and the LHS was fine whilst the right was royally screwed. There were a few large pools from the previous rain but I couldn't tell if that was from the river or just rain pooling. It was fine for midges due to the breeze but like Moose says, the week before it was absolutely terrible when still. If its raining it won't be fun to belay in that (midge) trench at the bottom of the crag.

[nik at work]

I'd have more fun at Trollers than on a road bike in the rain. I don't know if that tells you anything...

[Grubes]

As paul b said the midges were grim two weeks ago did not make it there last weekend.

I normally don't get bitten too bad but I got bitten to fuck while belaying. I had deeted up. Fucker even bit me on the lip.
If you do head up can you post the conditions please I may head up there tomorrow but not looking likely

[moose]

As paul b said the midges were grim two weeks ago did not make it there last weekend.

I normally don't get bitten too bad but I got bitten to fuck while belaying. I had deeted up. Fucker even bit me on the lip.
If you do head up can you post the conditions please I may head up there tomorrow but not looking likely

If you do decide you fancy Trollers (or elsewhere for that matter) and need a belayer / quickdraw equipping monkey let me know - I've no partner for tomorrow and am reluctant to surrender to the Depot.... I'll let you use my midge-hat and repellent! 

[Paul B]

Will, I know how you like to hurt yourself so:

N.B. The large undercuts used to get passed the first bulge on Angel Dust are seriously loose and you stand on a foothold attached to the same block(s). Try and miss them out or make your belayer stand well out of the way.

[moose]

Paul, have you tried "Kick My Habit" - the 7c direct up the Cold Turkey wall? Is that feasible with the undercut ledge in its current state?  Cold Turkey / Angel Dust can be climbed using the more solid side-pulls / undercuts to the right, but the direct route to the ledge.....?

[Paul B]

I didn't realise that specific link existed. You seemed to have some span on you so maybe lanking to the same sidepulls as on Angel Dust is possible? Can't say for sure though.

[Grubes]

moose will let you know about tomorrow

[moose]

sure - you have my phone number still? I'll keep an eye on ukb / facebook / email anyway.

[Will Hunt]

Partner has decided he'd prefer to slay tarmac. If you see a bedraggled pair round Blubberhouses way then spare them a prayer.

[Will Hunt]

We actually rode past Troller's today and it didn't look pleasant! Perhaps if the rock was dry then a die-hard could have got something done but it was still-ish and we heard thunder soon after. The humidity would have caused pretty poor conditions I think.

[MattW]

What kind of state will this place be in after the rain we've been having? Does it hold out for a while?
Cheers

[flyguy]

Ill refer you to my kilnsey reply. I'm sure it will be dry, it doesn't really suffer seepage bad, and there hasn't been much rain

[MattW]

Great thanks flyguy, we'll give it a go on the weekend.

[flyguy]

No worries, if there isn't a breeze I would defiantly recommend some sort of repellant or net. It's usually fine but can be quite annoying if there's no wind to blow the little fuckers away.

[36chambers]

Don't know whether it's worth bringing up this old thread.

But we went there yesterday and everything was completely bone dry. The "river" looked like it hadn't seen water in years.

Also there was a severe lack of midges, as in I didn't see any. Which, after reading through all the previous comments, may be an anomaly.

Overall an enjoyable venue and I'm looking forward to going back soon. 

[Will Hunt]

Looks showery tomorrow and was thinking of the gill (if anyone will go with me).

Last time I called in it was incredibly grim with midges. There was a Scot in a full body midge suit. We left without climbing.

It's due to be blowy tomorrow but with the wind blowing from a WSW direction. Does anybody know if this wind direction penetrates the gill and keeps the midges down?

Would Trow Gill be a better bet? Looking at the OS map, the gill runs in a roughly E-W direction, but the surrounding hillside might divert the wind around the gill. Similar midge problems there? Not sure if it stays dry in showers...

[andy_e]

Anyone know if this place is dry? I'm asking for a friend, of course...