[danm]

Any ideas before I shell out for another pair of Katanas?

I mostly boulder in winter and do routes in summer, Font 6c and E1 kind of level. Mostly grit, but off to Font and Provence in a few weeks, some mountain routes and slimestone in the summer.

I can't do super tight shoes anymore, my feet won't stand it :-(

I've had Anasazi Greens - great on grit but too soft elsewhere and a shite heel for my foot. Sportiva Miuras were awesome for edging, but so-so on smears. Katanas have been a good all rounder. Anything else I should consider? Tried Blanco's in the shop - felt a bit too stiff but lots of mates swear by them?

[Drew]

Blancos are stiffer than Verdes, so less good on grit, but they are pretty good when broken in. My mate's used them on some fairly smeary stuff and they worked fine. Miura Vs are apparently very good on smears as well as being awesome on edges.

Alternatively get two pairs, one for smearing, one for edging?

[Richie Crouch]

Maybe Galileo's? Broader than the VCS and a less aggressive heel cup.

[danm]

Thanks for the ideas guys - tried Galilleos a while back, they didn't quite feel right. I mostly end up with a big dead space around the heel with 5.10's - pinks were the worst, Verde's merely sadly baggy and my V-Miles (saved for alpine rock) the best.

I think I'll try some Blanco's and Miura VS in the shop, then probably end up getting another pair of Katanas 

[Richie Crouch]

There is the new Sportiva Tarantula's too that may be worth a look... although they may not be technical enough for yor needs? Good price on them too for a Sportiva shoe being around 70 quid retail

[Fultonius]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it? 

From my recent searches for shoe deals I'm sure I found Katanas in a few places much mucho less cashroonies than blancos and muiras.

[danm]

You know how it is - you reach your 40's, can't be arsed to train properly and get the idea that trying a new pair of shoes is the panacea for your lack of strength and talent. I'd like to do a 7a this year and I'll be damned if I'm going to use one of those Beastmaker contraptions to get there 

[205Chris]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it? 

From my recent searches for shoe deals I'm sure I found Katanas in a few places much mucho less cashroonies than blancos and muiras.

Ageed. Just follow my previous advice to get cheap Katanas here

[wiain]

Any ideas before I shell out for another pair of Katanas?

Dan, I have a suspicion that you are the same DanM who emailed me about harnesses today? If so, I'll happily talk you through the possibilities when we meet (although tbh it's sounding like Katanas so far).

[JacobJacob]

Scarpa Vapour Vs? I wore Katanas for years and have just swapped over to Vapour Vs. A very similar fit but with a slightly more aggressive shape and I like the way they are almost like slippers as they seem to hug your foot better...