[Fultonius]

Any ideas?

Had a search on the forum and many arrows point to 5.10 Blancos. Now, I've had 2 pairs and love them - so much so I'm considering shelling out the horrific amount of money that you need to buy them these days.

What's a good edging shoe from Scarpa - the current prices of Sportiva/5.10 is making scarpa's look positively cheap!

Any help appreciated. I need them for slightly overhanging daloerite (DUmby sport routes mainly) I could really notice my puntering indoor shoes struggling on the tiny edges of Sufference. (Comfy sized Evolve Pontas) and I'm not convinced tiny dragons are the weapons of choice either!

Any thoughts?

[Paul B]

the current prices of Sportiva/5.10 is making scarpa's look positively cheap!

I'm having the same problem, I just can't seem to bring myself to go out and buy the 5.10's. (Not to mention all their new stuff being far too soft).

[mrjonathanr]

Have you looked at Magos? - not discontinued but unfortunately a bit difficult to find in UK though a very good shoe, nice precise toes with good edge.

[Fultonius]

Has anyone used the scarpa vapours in ange - they seem like a good fit for me in a 43 and in an impromptu test on a wooden edge they seemed reasonably edgy. The only thing was the lacing loop at the bottom over my big toe seemed a little uncomfortable.

[ShortRound]

I've got a pair of the Scarpa Instincts for limestone sport (so edging) and I really like them. The vapours didn't seem precise enough to me and whilst the instincts look downturned they're not as aggressive/painful as dragons etc.

[fried]

If you're coming over to Font and it rains, and you end up in Paris, they are available in le vieux connard for 100 euros which is a bit of a saving.

[Fultonius]

Convince yourself to book a trip to Font and it rains, and you end up in go to Paris, they are available and pick up a pair in le vieux connard for 100 euros which is a bit of a saving.

The, fixed that for ya 

[mrjonathanr]

Rutland Outdoor?? seem to have a full stock of Magos

[Fultonius]

For that price I'd just get some blancos!

I've never tried on the magos, so not really sure what the fit would be like... Cheers anyway!

[Sam]

I've found pontas lace ups to be reet good on Peak lime - nice & stiff (far more so than the soft velcro version)

[Fultonius]

Interesting - the velcros I have are fairly roomy, so maybe a tight lace up pair would work  The shape certainly seems to fit my foot well.

[DaveyDave]

They're selling Magos at the Works for 50 quid if that's any help.

[Fultonius]

Edited to say: Just ordered some Magos. Hopefully they're not too downturned as I was struggling in tiny dragons due to this. Ordered them in the size i think I had boosters in before they got nicked.

Can never have too many shoes anyway...

[TommyG]

I know that they are expensive but La Sportiva Katana's have been great for me on the sport.

They do break a bit and the size is not always reliable but if you get a pair that fir then they are great

[Drew]

...the size is not always reliable but if you get a pair that fit then they are great

The sizes may be completely off the scale, but they are very consistent. Unlike 5.10.

[Fultonius]

  Magos in 43 arrived this morning and they fit pretty well. Gash heel on them, but the foot/toebox seems spot on!

 Seem to be developing a bit of a shoe fetish   the colleciton now is:

Scarpa Magos, 5.10 whites (picked some up in Edinburgh for cheap), Evolve Pontas Velcro and 5.10 Dragons.

tried the 5.10s out yesterday and due to 5.10 QC, they seem to be a bit bigger than my last pair :-(  but I'm sure they'll still climb well - I've always worn them quite big and got on ok.

[Fultonius]

Ok, not sure if this will be of interest to anybody, but here's my thoughts from another session on Sufferance.

Comfy sized Evolve Pontas

Gash, utterly, utterly gash. I quite like these shoes at the wall, but they just do not perform well on this route. This route requires a shoe that does not roll off small edges, grips well on sloping holds with minimal downward pressure and is precise.

This shoe is none of them.

Painfully sized 5.10 Dragons 

Hmm, jury is still out. The last is too aggressive I think, but Ill need to persevere with breaking them in for a while...

Well fitted Scarpa Magos

Not convinced!  The rubber does not seem nearly as grippy as the 5.10 rubber. To be fair, they're even less broken-in than the 5.10 white anasazis (coming next...) but on my one go with them my feet were popping off all over the place. They seem a little imprecise too - the toe is a little bulbous.

These might get relegated to a second pair of indoor puntering shoes unless they break in well. To be fiar, they do have a fairly "powerfull" toe, but that's not much use if the rubber don't grip ho!

5.10 Anasazi V2 White

Yes. These are the ones. As I expected! Much more precise than the Magos. The two sections of the route that really had the magos struglling are a rockover on a very small, angled edge (literally a 20mm x 10mm triangle). It's waay out to the side and high, so you're not really putting a lot of force through it. The 5.10s just grip where the Magos slip. The next bit is a foot shuffle along a sloping ledge. Full front foot smear working your way onto smaller edges. Once again the magos were like having bars of soap on my feet!

So, for me anyway, the 5.10s win.  Maybe if your footwork doesn't get described as "an elephant going rockclimbing" you can get away with a less grippy rubber... but I can't!