[lagerstarfish]

Eh up punters

If there's a thread already, please point me at it.

I am fat, oldish, have weedy fingers, can't crimp, don't have enough time to do routes, have learned that Peak lime is actually good fun and want to build up to 7A on the white stuff.

Sooooo, what are the quality problems in the 5 and 6 range that I should be enjoying myself on whilst building up to the big 7? Any type of problem/style considered; must have GSOH and OK landing.

Peakbouldering.info doesn't let me select rock type to form an r-man list.

Cheers

Lagers

[Paul B]

Sardine warmup traverse?
All of the 'lines' near the three traverses at Rubicon
Rubicon Trav
Boot Boys Start
Too Hard for Mark Leach
Millers Tale

[tomtom]

Sardine warmup traverse?
All of the 'lines' near the three traverses at Rubicon
Rubicon Trav
Boot Boys Start
Too Hard for Mark Leach
Millers Tale

I suspect all at Rubicon has been Lagered... Is too hard for Mark Leach really a 6??? Its certainly too hard for TomTom (not that thats necessarily saying much!)

Good thread idea though... what about easier 7's? Seeing as the only 7 I've lanked got up on lime is Saline Drip...

[Falling Down]

Sadly yes, a 6C+ or 6C accordng to some 

[andy_e]

Too hard for "insert your name here if you get spanked on it"

[lagerstarfish]

So, ideally I go round to Leachy's house and drag him out for verification?

I should film it really

[tomtom]

So, ideally I go round to Leachy's house and drag him out for verification?

I should film it really

It might be easier to find a random 'Mark Leach' from the phone book - or www... this ones a sheriff!



kidnap them and force them to try the problem in front of the camera. Proof. Alternatively, persuade Cofe not to do it, with no camera's present and it'll become fact. Word.

[lagerstarfish]

I suspect all at Rubicon has been Lagered...

By that he means "I have seen Lagers float up all the sub 7 problems there like a well muscled Da Vinci climbing machine"

[tomtom]

I suspect all at Rubicon has been Lagered...

By that he means "I have seen Lagers float up all the sub 7 problems there like a well muscled Da Vinci climbing machine"

Given the large number of <7 traverse type problems at Rubicon its more like float along than up I think you should work on some mega traverse/up/down/circular link up and call the problem "I wiped my arse on JK's lambo"

[lagerstarfish]

or release the video of me wiping my arse on JK's entire car collection...

[jowgli]

the 6c+ eliminate at minus ten which starts as for lucian's (problem 11 in the bouldering guide i think) is pretty cool. vertical and as uncrimpy as limestone gets

[dave]

Sardine warmup traverse?
All of the 'lines' near the three traverses at Rubicon
Rubicon Trav
Boot Boys Start
Too Hard for Mark Leach
Millers Tale

these are all good except sardine and rubicon traverse.

plus:

wild in me start
saline drip (borderline 7a)
super high intensity start
dragonflight traverse
speckled egg direct and indirect
roof/s left of speckled egg
Couple of decent problems R of cherokee lane

There's a 6c ish thing below beginners wall too.

[tomtom]

or release the video of me wiping my arse on JK's entire car collection...

Did it hurt? (any unusual chaffage?)

[clgladiator]

these are all good except sardine and rubicon traverse.

plus:

wild in me start

Surely not a 6!?

Imo, Millers Tale, Boot Boys and Too Hard For Mark Leach are all well worth doing.

[lagerstarfish]

or release the video of me wiping my arse on JK's entire car collection...

Did it hurt? (any unusual chaffage?)

A frightened chauffeur and some unusual chauffage due to friction, but no chafing.

[lagerstarfish]

Thanks for the contributions everyone

[cofe]

Red or Dead standing start is probably worth 6c/+, and worth doing to build up to the sitter (7a+) which is good.
Swing Time is a friendly 7a.

[Barratt]

There's 3 or 4 problems at -10 (starting near Lucian's) that all fall under 6c and all are quite nice. The wall right has 2 or 3 nice easier problems that I use for warm ups in the 6a region.

I find Millers Tale a right sandbag, always found it hard.

Stoney is calling me Friday aft, if you want join a crap climber/guide to the easier stuff.

[Pebblespanker]

re Millers  and glassy - teaches precise footwork though, or not in my case 

If you fancy some pockety tendon stretching stuff then try the starts to the main routes at Rheinstor right of Crepuscule, they are a little highball when going for the break but the landings are a friendly as can be, unlike some of the pockets ...

There's always Stoney -10 area etc.

[Duncan Disorderly]

I second all the Stoney minus 10 stuff but suggest that you go get on Tom's roof original... Get's 7a but....  Easy for a man of your stature

Also much of Pleasley falls into your desired category and is dead good (the 7aish thing's even doable with a fucked finger!).

:D

[Barratt]

  re Toms Original - some other stuff up there too that i should have a look at. Does kinda feel like the whole things going to fall down on you though!

[Stubbs]

Is too hard for Mark Leach really a 6??? Its certainly too hard for TomTom (not that thats necessarily saying much!)

It's all in the beta, you can get a good heel in out left which makes it a lot easier.

[lagerstarfish]

Well, I didn't know what to expect from starting a thread on this forum about something to do with actual bouldering. It's turned out to be most useful. I might be moved to do something similar in the future.

I did Miller's a few times last year. Once or twice in reasonable style. I thought 6c+. Failed miserably on it last weak end.

I haven't been to -10 in years. Some fool who came out on a night session with me recently suggested it as an after-the-kids-have-gone-to-bed lantern powered venue, so I might have to do just that.

I think it might be time for a return to The Tor. I don't think I've ever bouldered there? I could be wrong though. I'm pretty sure I haven't been since the final years of the 20th Century.

There are two chances of me getting to Rheinstor for some pocket pulling: no way and no how.

I may have done Tom's Roof original a very long time ago, but I have no clear memory of it. It's a roof; how hard can it be?

Too Hard For Mark Leach is getting done just for the name and subsequent pointing and gloating.

[r-man]

Check out the Miller's Dale quarries. Lots of lovely stuff in the 5 - 6 range. Technical and vertical, chunky holds and a few highballs. Not gnarly like most sub 7a lime, but this does mean it probably won't help you improve on lime...

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=16477.0