Climbing life and experiences (Read 112187 times)

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

New Blog
10 September 2010, 6:53 pm

So yeah a new blog up people, keeping you up to date on all the latest goings off and info on whats been going down. This year has without a doubt been my best year climbing ever, which is partly down to the summer being prehaps the driest we've had in years, culminating in climbing shed loads in Chee Dale, taking advantage of the uber dry Cornice. Had some amazing sessions down here with a really good scene and crew and sent lots of really cool routes.

The Water-Cum-Jolly Cornice has also seen super dry conditions and over the last few weeks we've been working and sending routes here, to escape the Dale of Chee's crowds. Hoping to hit this place up again at the weekend.

Done a couple of comps this year also, one being CWIF at thee Works and the other an Open Youth event up at EICA Ratho in Edinburgh. Good times man

Also took a trip to Wales early on in the summer, doing some trad at Gogarth and in the Pass, along with a trip a couple weeks back to Yorkshire! We camped for a few nights and managed to get loads done at Gordale, Malham and Kilnsey. Really syked to get back up there sometime soon!

Sooo super briefly thats covered the adventures of the summer. Temps are starting to cool now meaning its getting to that time of year for some Tor action and then quite stoked to get some cool grit done this winter. Syked man!

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Mixed Bag
12 September 2010, 6:35 pm

Had a sesh at the WCJ cornice yesterday, but after having four days off! the longest time spent without actually climbing all summer, was feeling a bit rusty. Training on the board no way near makes up for getting out on the rock. Anyway once we'd got going it wasn't to shabby and after dodging the monsoon showers I got on the Yorkshire 8b. Had a few naff efforts, before getting some very good new beta off Caff, which makes the move soooo much easier man. So am syked for getting back on it next week!

And today ended up just being a few hours at the wall. Hoping to do some rebolting in the coming week down the Dale, so we iz well keen for that. I hear its pretty soggy down there at the moment :( bad times! Lets hope it dries out some....

Anyway heres a teaser for the forthcoming 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour, which looks totally incredible! Check it out!

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Summer 2010!
14 September 2010, 3:41 pm

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Lime Crushage!
18 September 2010, 7:54 pm

So unbelievably syked right now! Had a well dope session on the lime today, getting a couple of really cool ticks. First up was a trip down the WCJ Cornice and bagging 'Yorkshire 8b' F8a then we bombed it round to Tideswell Dale were I was able to get Ben Moons old scool route 'Culloden' F8a+ done! BOOOYAA!

Both routes are basically boulder problems but Culloden more so being just a couple of hard pulls on good but small holds. Around Font 7c ish. Really stoked about this one! Vengaa!

This last week has been pretty sweet as far as climbing goes really. Been back down the Chee Dale cornice yet again, continuing the siege like (Yes it is still dry comrades). Started work on 'Nemesis' Monday and was able to get the moves dialed super quick, and then Wednesday wasn't fair off getting the beast, so it could be game on next sesh. JC had a close one on Christians new 'Bricktop' F8b midweek and then sent yesterday. Props to you brother!

Back to college next week, bad times, but still gona have plenty of time to get some more proojects done. A Muerte!

Peace.

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

A la Project...
29 September 2010, 3:05 pm

Soooo not much to report really, we has been doing lots of training on some wood over the past week, and have had a few days at the Tor working on the Weedkiller/Chimes linkup, pretty close to this ol rig now and pumped to try get it done tomorrow. Hoping for some more cold temps. Yeahh!

Managed to do a bit of bouldering in between sessions on the linkup too, doing Weedkiller Footless and a few other things round the place. Also went down Rubicon last Sunday with hammered elbows but managed to get Zippy's little addition 'The Wimp'pretty quick.

Grim weather out there today so its been a couple hours on a le beastmaker and plenty of cruising round on thee web. And that iz about it all I reckons.

Peacee and lovee and things x

Have a gander at this...

from Jordi Canyigueral on Vimeo.

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Patience
11 October 2010, 9:30 pm

Well the project still hasn't gone yet, been real close on the last few sessions, so close that it should have really been in the bag by now but I guess that's how it goes sometimes. Fell from the last hold a couple of times but still no cigar, thou I iz very keen to go back and send this week.... hopefully. Its definitely feeling like its game on for next time, but spose I said that last time....guess we wills see man. We just loves dis shizz.

Massive big up to JC for sending Mecca Extension today! Nice one dudee! Very inspiring and a hugee example that it'll all pay off in the end if you just stick with it!

Here is a picture from Robbie Shone of le man himself on the extension. Check some more of this guys work out here, its immense! http://www.shonephotography.com/

Share the love!

Adioss!

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Success!
16 October 2010, 6:23 pm

Finally managed to get the Weedkiller/Chimes link done today! Booom! After quite a few sessions falling at the last hurdle its at last in the bag. Really good temps out today and we iz just very syked to have sent this thing and to have done my first 8b! Yeah man Alle Alle!

Its weird how things happen sometimes, you just gotta be prepared to keep with it and eventually it'll all come together. Its all part of 'le progression' in the end, and the never ending learning curve. Its important to not get depressed over routes, you have to know that you'll do it and believe that you can. Doing this along with determination and the ability to not give in will eventually pay off. It can be hard but what would be the point if it wasn't right?

Sooo after the success on the linkup I tied into Mecca for a gander, really good to be on another bit of rock ha! Could be up for putting some days into this before it gets to cold to be hanging on a rope, we will see what is happening mann. Keen for la grit though now for sure. So many old ghetto projects to get done and new routes to try. Venga man venga!

Outzzzz x

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Grit, Lime, Grit, Lime
28 October 2010, 7:39 pm

Tried to get out on some of that grit last weekend but didn't even make it out of the car up Stanage man, was just total grimness. Massive FAIL! Soooo we bailed to La Tor, tried to get some motivation ont bubble with the other faithful and minced about for a while before giving Mecca a blast after dobbin had finished.

Got some wicked beta off Ted for the groove and quickly linked the top section together, then lowered off and headed home eager for another session at some point. Not before however belaying Stone on the successful ascent of his project!!! Very honored, historically mannn! Well stoked for him, good work mate!

Monday we's actually got out on the grit! Had a real cool few hours soloing around on some classics up Stanage. Clear skies, and cold temps made it feel amazing and was really good to just do loads of routes and get the feel of it all again.

Going to try it again at the weekend, hopefully it'll be better weather than last this time but we'll just have to see how it holds out I guess, anyway plenty of time for all that shizz. Well up for Black Car Burning!!

Spent a day route setting at The Face on Tuesday and today we've been back down the Tor. Made loads of progress on Mecca doing all the moves quickly again and getting some big links done. Its all starting to feel like it may be possible now but will most probably run out of time this year as only got a few weeks left before it'll be to cold to be on a rope but maybe I'll get lucky..........

WE IZ VERY KEEN! JA JA

LETZ DO THIS

PEACENESS to ya'all

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

BOOOM!
4 November 2010, 11:34 pm

Been doing loads of grit stuff over past week, had a trip up to Froggatt and did Hard Cheddar E5 6b among a few other good lil routes. Then headed up Black Rocks over weekend, ticking a couple of classics and then getting Doggers' Paradise done, a nice E4 6a, at the Alport Stone.

Really starting to get back into all this grit trad shizz now, and the syke is brewing again for the weekend!

Cheers to Dave Hughes for the photos, more of his work can be found here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/80859278@N00/

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Ropeeeeee
5 November 2010, 12:46 pm

We are syked to be helping Crag X out with some rope testing. Over the next 6 months we'll be trying out the Tendon Smart and seeing how it holds out at the crag. BOOOYAA!

Cheers guys!

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

More of the good stuff
14 November 2010, 8:54 pm

Loving the whole trad game at the moment, its just great to be out at loads of different crags doing lots of different routes, enjoying some really good conditions. Visited the Cowper Stone a week ago and did a few things before going on a sweet soloing mission at the popular end until it got dark.

Yesterday we went over to Higgar, always been keen for this place but never actually got round to going. Pretty windy times up there but after a quick warm up we did The Rasp. Such a great line with fantastic climbing man and was able to use some Cornice skills too! HA! After this I managed to do Bat Out of Hell E5 6a, which is another wicked line straight up the middle of the block, and diffinatly one of my favourite routes.

Then had a couple of tries on Block n Tackle, but couldn't quite work it out, we needz some beta! However we willz be back soon fo show!

Training this week and hoping to get out ont one or two of the days. Keen for some Curbar action next!

OUT

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Boulder time!
30 November 2010, 8:23 pm

So had a few real good sessions over the last couple weeks or so, went up Burbage North with famous lime crusher Jon Clark, word up brother, last week were we both quickly dispatched The Terrace, Font 7C, a really funky little problem and deffinatly one of my new favourites.

Saturday we headed up to the plantation, with the aim of getting Brad Pit, F7C+. Came close to this classic a couple years back and after a warm up and a few tries I was able to get the beast! YEAH! Really stoked for sure, such a wicked boulder!

Hoping to get bouldering again this week, lots of snow this way at the moment so we wills see if we can take advantage of the conditions and crushhh!

Out

x

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Scary Times
13 December 2010, 9:08 pm

Been a bit to cold to tie into a rope these last couple of weeks with all this snow, but we've manage to have quite a few sweet bouldering sessions. Paid a visit to the impressive Ina's Rock last week, didn't manage to get anything done but was just cool to be out really. Keen to return for sure sometime, with MORE pads next time round!

Saturday we headed up to Froggatt for some more scary highballing, and was able to get two wicked good routes done. First up was the classic Oedipus Ring Your Mother, E4 6b a route I've always wanted to do and was super pleased to tick. And next I was able to bag The Mint 400, E6 6b an old Mr Fawcett line, just to the right. Not before taking a few jumps off from high up and a super scary moment right on the last move, with the ground looking miles below. Amazing line thou! Go do it people!

Thursday we are syked for going to try Renegade Master! Super stoked to pull on this thing man!

Peace out

Ciao

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Merry Christmas!
24 December 2010, 9:06 pm

Big up to ya'll! Everyone have a dope ass Christmas and crush!

Peace n love!

x

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

New Year!
8 January 2011, 7:04 pm

New year and everything people! WORD! Very keen to climb as much as possible again this year and on with the progression! Got a few potential trips planned to Europe which we are syked for, and also looking forward to getting up Yorkshire some more.

We pottered about at a few different places over the Christmas period, in between all the random weather we got. Had a good bouldering sesh at Cratcliffe couple weeks back getting both the uber classics of T-Crack and Jerry's Traverse, which wa cool ya know.

Went out to Cratcliffe again on Thursday were I managed to get Genocide done, a cool E6 6c of Jerry's. Such a wicked route with the crux involving a huge span using two tiny, but positive crimps up to a really slopey break. Took a few lobs going for this before sticking the slopers and pushing on to the top.

Today was a fail! Ha! Gotta love the weather eh!

Happy New Year to ya'll! Hope its a good one for ya!

Out

Genocide

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Yeahhhh!
17 January 2011, 6:58 pm

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Third time lucky
22 January 2011, 7:53 pm

Another productive day on the grit. Tried Burbage N again and finally, after two visits, got some half decent conditions. Walked down to Knights Move and got up Arme Blanche, E5 6a, a very cool line. Then checked out Navana on the way back, propa funky boulder problem start, and will deffo go back for this one JA.

Lets hope for some more good weather tomorrow....

In bit geezzza

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

27 January 2011, 5:35 pm

JC down the Cornice. INSANE AS!

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Grit season continues
31 January 2011, 8:29 pm

Really enjoying visiting a lot of new places and quiet little corners of the peak just lately. Over the weekend we went to Baslow to check out The Grand Potato and while there was no cigar in the end, it was really cool to just be out there in a wicked spot and with no crowds whatsoever, not to mention mint weather for once.

Will be back during the week to finish off this thing for sure. Video below of us blowing it on the last move and with the gear ripping! EPIC! Broke my frickin' ballnut mannnn!

Yesterday we decided on heading up to Moorside rocks for a walk around and again it was real cool to be some place totally different and apart of a very cool landscape.

After doing a few bits n bobs we had a wander into the woods at the end of Gardoms to try find Charlotte Rampling, a scary E6 that I'd spotted in the guide. Came very close to this, getting all the way to the sloper at the finish, before chickening out and facing up to the huge drop onto the pads below. Another line we are very keen to go back and finish off. Word to the guys there for the spot and couple of extra pads!

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Send Train
5 February 2011, 6:17 pm

So what an utterly dire day its been today! Nearly 24 hours of constant rain meaning our plans to hit Gardoms were completely out the window, so headed to the wall for a beast of a sesh instead.

However had a really mint day out on Thursday back at Baslow, with a strong crew out including the Hamer boys and Steve Ramsden. Managed to bag The Grand Potato E6 6b, after sorting out the dubious gear and then watching Sam cruise on up the arete. A proper little gem of a route hidden away in the trees with fantastic moves in a great setting. We then all looked on as Steve stepped up for the solo! He crushed it second go after taking a huge huge jump from the very top, and almost missing the pads completely. A proper fine effort!

The Grand Potato

Sam and Ed then both did Poppers, the E5 up the middle of the wall to the right, topping out in the horrendous winds!

We all finished off with some cool bouldering with the wind becoming more and more gale force every minute, almost had to tie the pads down in the end!

Looking outside now and its STILL raining, and with them forecasting more of the stuff for tomorrow it is looking like a beastmaker day!

Next week the mighty Ben Humphris is coming to the Peaks so we are keen to get out and hopefully continue the gritstone tickage! Anddddd the new GriGri2 arrived this morning! YES BRO! Very hot bit of kit fo show!

Sam beasting those chicken heads on Poppers

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Gardoms Magic
14 February 2011, 9:50 pm

Had a cool session up on Froggatt with Mr Humphris last Friday, and even though the signs looked ominous to begin with it turned out alright and I was able to get on Narcissus while Ben went for Oedipus. Didn't manage to get them done in the end but another route that can be added to the list of things to come back for.

Saturday we all headed to Gardoms in the hope that the classic Dawes E6, Charlotte Rampling would be in good nick along with a couple other things. Got up there and it was totally soaked but we were optimistic that it'd dry so went and did the amazing Suavito F7B+, a well nice bloc which has to be up there with one of my favourite problems for sure.

Once the sun hit the slab of Charlotte it was fine and was able to get it done! YES! Love those moments when you feel totally in there on a route, completely in that zone, focusing on the next move and getting to the top.

It was a case of back to the same old drizzle yesterday but hopefully it'll pick up some this week and we'll be able to get out. Short video below of some end of the day bouldering.

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

More tickage
1 March 2011, 9:33 pm

Its all been a bit hit and miss over the last month with the weather, lots of rain and grim times but at least there was some relief from the winter onslaught with a couple days of sunshine last week. Popped up to Curbar with some of the crew and quickly dispatched another Dawes scare-fest, Committed E6 6b. Even with the cunningly arranged pads it still managed to feel pretty airy up on the last moves.

Saturday wandered back to Curbar again but quickly bailed to escape the wind for some Gardoms bouldering and did the classic Marks Roof along with Neils Roof, F7C ish.

Slackers is next on the list and should get a chance to get on this thing over the coming week.

Training quite a bit at the moment for a comp in a couple of weeks time at Derby, which we are pretty syked for!

Out brethren.

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Black Car Burning and the happenings!
14 March 2011, 9:41 pm

Saturday saw us on the way up to Apparent North at Stanage to give the E7 Black Car Burning a blast. I first tried this line a couple of years ago and its been a route I've been really keen to get done over the winter. Then last week the syke started brewing to go give it a proper go!

Once we'd sorted the gear out and got all the moves re-dialed I tied in and went for it and was super super stoked to top out! Managed to get it on camera as well, check out the video!

Had a short session up at Black Rocks the other day also and did the Evans classic King Edward, F7C ish. Which wa cool ya know! Short video I put together of this problem below too.

We've also been mixing it up at Rowtor last week, a place which always feels cool to be apart of, hidden away in the woods on a hill. Only did Yoghurt but well up for returning soon to get the new problem Pink Lady done! Funky stuff.

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Polar Bear Power!
21 March 2011, 9:15 pm

Another awesome day on the grit over weekend. Forecast looked sweet for Saturday and had more Curbar action in mind all week, with the E6 6b, Slackers being mainly on the cards. Got there early and after a quick warm-up walked down the crag and got the flash on this real stunner of a line! It climbs amazing with some funky moves on the lower arete, before launching on up the superb finish. Also did the easier start, Diet of Worms E4 6a, which is well dope too bruvs.

The day finished with some fantastic bouldering on Baslow and was very cool to tick the crag classic Flatworld at around 7B+/7C. We all then strolled over to The Eagle Stone, and rolled out a flash of both 'A Fist Full of Beagles" 7A+ and the wicked 'For a Few Beagles More' at 7B. Amazing end to the day and mega props again to Paul 'da beta machine'! Peace man!

Flatworld

Beagles anyone?

Was all about eatswood Rocks yesterday, another spot we hadn't checked out before, and was super impressed. Very mellow place in the woods, and came close to the tick of the crag, the traverse. Sweet collection of moves fo sure what with all the knee bar shenanigans! Will be back soon for this and a few of da others!

Source: Climbing life and experiences

comPiler · April 04, 2011, 07:45:24 am

Return of the Lime
3 April 2011, 9:42 pm

Yesterday saw us hit up the Tor for a first session of the year on the lime! Felt bit strange to be back at the place but was eager to get stuck into Pump up the Power, 8a+. Eventually lots of familiar faces started to appear and after getting the numbers dialed on PUTP, having a few burns and giving Stone a quick catch, I found myself clipping the belay! Super stoked to get this powerful thing in a session, and the syke is high now for more of the stuff. Revelations bekons...

Been back to eatswood a couple of times since the last post, bagging the traverse and a few of the other cool problems. The trad here looks awesome too so there is a plan to get involved with all that sometime.

Last weekend we had a trip up Yorkshire to sample for the first time, some of famous grit crags it has to offer. First stop was the amazing Caley and was cool to get on some of the highballs and have an explore around the place. Had a quick drive down the road to Ilkley as well, which was impressive to see and a place we'll be returning to soon without a doubt! Check the short video below for some of the stuff that went off.

So anyway the lime is back people and Mr Fry and The Humphris arrived back in town this week, so we will definitely be mixing it up with these guys very shortly!

Peacee ya'll

Source: Climbing life and experiences