[comPiler]

Nuda's Tartan
19 April 2011, 9:20 pm

Quick video of a wicked problem we did at the unsung Nuda's Tartan in Alport. Very funky 3D climbing, with toe and heel hooks, mono's and sharp pockets. All good fun!

Off camping for a few days tomorrow which we iz psyched for, will write some more when we get back. Outs.



Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

The white stuff continues...
25 April 2011, 9:44 pm

Had a sweet few days cruising round the peak with my good homie Ben Humphris last week.  The weather has been pretty crazy, so it was a case of hitting the Tor during the morning, then escaping the heat and bailing down to the cool sanctuary of the dale. We both got a couple of good onsight/flashes under our belts of some cool routes both down there and at the steep, tucked outa the way venue, that is Beginners Wall.

Wednesday night saw us head back to Ben's place in Edale to quickly knock up a pretty hardcore board, see the fruits of our efforts below! Those guys will be pulling off every hold they touch after a few sessions on that beast!

By the time Saturday evening had come round it was evident that a rest day was desperately needed, after four days on in a row! So Sunday we did just that by having a wander down Dovedale with da bank holiday crowd init. Checked out Eye of the Tiger on the walk through, which looks absolutely incredible and we are really psyched now to go get it done!

Today we plodded off back down the dale again hoping that with yesterdays rest and rejuvenated skin we could hopefully get the 8a Entree sent. After a few attempts I was finally able to pull past the desperate boulder start and cruise on up the top wall to the chains! Super pleased with this, and while it felt pretty much straight forward in the end, that start is still pretty nails. Tough bugga fo show!

Theoria at The Nook is amazingly dry at the moment and had a quick pull on before walking out. Took the drill down to re-bolt this thing towards the end of last summer but the rain beat us to it, so now its back in shape we'll get it a new rig soon as possible.

And finally another quick video here of 'Paint it Black' 7C, in Blackwell Dale that we stopped off and bagged today too on the way home. A little bit of gold it is, with some noice moves.



Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Theoria
6 May 2011, 11:29 am

Met up with Mike last week at The Nook for a date with Theoria, a bouldery 8a+. In the last post I wrote that I'd had a quick burn on this short cellar-board route a few days before, given it a good brush up and sorted out all the moves. The start is ace, involving good pinches and a launch to a really positive crimper, from here a series of side-pulls and smaller crimps lead to a big throw to a huge jug. Above this a decaying lower-off awaits but not before a pretty sneaky last move to the finishing hold.

Anyway after a few tries I pulled through the lower crux, teetered my way across to the shagged lower-off, and it was in the bag. Really awesome micro route and I'm sure once we've rigged it up with fresh pins it'll see a lot more ascents, just as Lockless did last year. We have the bolts now, thanks to Kristian and now just waiting for the drill from the JC.

More news from the dale is that the Cornice is super dry, as I'm sure everyone is pretty much aware by now. Amazing what a week or so of hot weather and wind can do! We've also been ticking our way through the new routes over on Dogs-Dinner, which has been cool, and also got stuck back into R n P and Nemesis! Been good to see last years crew slowly starting to emerge down there, and I think everyone is syked by how early the place has dried out! Looking like another wicked summer is on the cards...



Source: Climbing life and experiences

[Andy B]

And finally another quick video here of 'Paint it Black' 7C, in Blackwell Dale that we stopped off and bagged today too on the way home. A little bit of gold it is, with some noice moves.



Source: Climbing life and experiences

Hi Ethan. I've posted this on your blog as well, but Paint It Black doesn't finish where you drop off in the vid. It continues over the top overhang, via undercuts in the crack above where you finished, to jugs just beneath the grass.

[Ethan]

Ahhh yes I did realise this shortly after checking peak-bouldering. Will have to go back and get the full thing! Cheers mate.

[comPiler]

Malham Trip
21 May 2011, 9:10 pm

Last week we headed to Malham for a couple days with Sam and Caff and had a pretty sweet time! We arrived Thursday dinner to be greeted by the screams of Ondra trying hard on Overshadow, not quite what we were expecting but it was totally awesome to watch the guy tearing the place up, warming up on 8a+'s before cruising up Overnight Sensation and launching into the desperate wall above. Inspiring stuff for sure! We were amazed to find out we'd even be camping right next to the beast!

Later we were joined by numerous other wads and it ended up being a really cool scene on the catwalk. Caff got stuck into Power Ranger and narrowly missed out on bagging it, but then sent Connect 5 and Sam managed to crush his way up Overnight! Respect brothers.

I came close an a couple things and we now have the Malham syke! Cannot wait to get back up there as soon as possible to get stuck in. Hoping for another trip over half term.

Thursday we decided on having a gander down Dovedale to give Eye of the Tiger a bash. Such an incredible piece of rock raising up over the dale. Had a brief go with Sam making super quick work of the thing, nailing it second go! So, very keen to go back to try it again and also to get Arch Enemies done, which is a stunning looking line! Contender for the best 7c+ in the Peak? Without a doubt.

Sam in cruise mode on Eye of the Tiger

Arch Enemies

Today it was back to the Cornice, and got Nemesis completely dialed, just ran out of skin in the end, next week we hopeful it might all come together. Sam came uber uber close to Four Doors, taking the huge and slightly painful whipper in the process. Should go down pretty easy next time I imagine.

Mawson getting stuck into Bricktop

And that is a rap, enjoy the pictures.

Out

Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Nemesis
2 June 2011, 9:23 pm

Woke up Tuesday morning feeling propa syked about heading down the Cornice to try and finish off the 8a+ Nemesis and hoping that the rain from the previous day hadn't seeped through that much. Met up with JC in le Cromford, we drove on over and quickly made our way along the new approach. Gareth was also down for the day continuing his quest to tick Roof Warrior with some pizza from the night before aiding him in this mission!

After a brief warmup and a couple of redpoints I cranked my way onto the headwall, chilled out, took a breather and quickly found myself clipping the chains! Allez! Its a fantastic route, a true burly classic and stoked to get it done and continue on with the Cornice siege! Definitely up there as one of my favorite routes I've done for sure. Next on the list is the pumpy little number of R 'n' P. Came close on this last year so another route we are hoping to polish off. Keen to have a blast over the coming weekend, so we'll see how it goes.

Next week I will be joining the MockRock team in Leicester for some route setting on the brand new wall they have been building! So check back over the coming days to see how things go!

Peace out

Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Cornice shots
4 June 2011, 6:41 pm

A few pictures from the days adventures down int' dale.

Roy cranking out the crux of R 'n' P

32...

Punter!



Source: Climbing life and experiences

[clm]

you mention drilling and re equipping in here a bit. You seen the access thread?

[Ethan]

Yeah, I've been keeping tabs on it all. Seems at the moment that re-equipping of routes is still acceptable down there. Lets hope it stays that way.

[comPiler]

Taking Shape
8 June 2011, 9:32 pm

Mentioned in a previous post that the Mock Rock team have been busy in  Leicester this last week building a brand new climbing wall for a school  there. Anyway the structure is up and are now just waiting on some  safety matting to arrive. Few shots of their progress so far below. Good  work guys!



Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Super Tuesday
10 June 2011, 5:05 pm

Having a really chilled out sesh today sat around at home so thought I'd write a short bit about the ventures of the last few days.

Its extremely motivating when you can see the progression on a route from one session to the next, and feel yourself getting stronger and more in tune with the climbing. You learn tricks to help you relax and re-gain that extra power you need to stick the next move. The end product of this is all super rewarding when it finally comes together. On Tuesday I was able to tick another Cornice test piece, R 'n' P (8a+).  It was a bit of a fight towards the end but just about hung in there long enough on the headwall to power up to the finish. Another one in the bag!

After this we took advantage of Stones cleaning efforts and nabbed a quick ascent of the short bouldery 7c+ 'This is the Sea" and Jon cleaned and made short work of 'Dirty Old Man' another 7c+ to the right.

We've also had a few sessions down Dovedale just lately on the fantastic Reynards Arch. If people fancy a day climbing somewhere slightly different to the regular venues around and somewhere you can virtually guarantee won't be over run with climbers then go check this place out.

There is something for everyone here, from the recently retro-bolted 'The Lime Arch' (6b+) which takes in terrain that you wouldn't normally find on a grade at this level in the Peak, all the way to the steep 'Sworn Enemy' (8a) that JC put up last year. With a couple of low end 7's thrown into the mix as well! And of course the arch is home to the old 80's classic and what many people believe to be the best 7c+ in the Peak, Arch Enemies! I managed to crank my way up this yesterday and have to agree that its arguably one of the best routes of the grade I've done, and in a wicked setting. Have a video of this on its way so will post it up sometime when I get a chance.

In other news we are currently in the middle of organising a month long trip to Céüse in July with the Hamer boys! Super excited about this, should be an immense 4 weeks. Will be blogging about our adventures as we go along. So be sure to check out the site for updates!

Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Becoming a Warrior
17 June 2011, 2:34 pm

As we approached the Cornice yesterday we were greeted by a host of British climbing legends steadily warming up and pottering about, and later even more turned up, most notably grit master Dawes back for his second session of the week after we first bumped into him a few days before.After warming up ourselves we watched Zippy wander off into the wilderness in search of "dirt" while Kristian checked out his latest project and Mcclure made a swift ascent of the new line "Easy Rider".In the end it proved to be another successful few hours in the Dale of Chee as I was able to tick another ol rig I've always been keen for, that is the super fun line of The Roof Warrior (8a). It is a pretty funky route with burly moves through the wide roof up to a bomber knee bar rest! After trying to milk this for as long as my arms would take it was all about sticking the tricky move out left and staying relaxed on the finishing moves. Anyone who hasn't done this already I would definitely recommend them going to give it a barney.We finished the day off by treking up to the The Embankment and made a quick ascent of Sturgeon in the Cupboard (7c). Another one of those routes you've always been syked for at some point but never got round to getting on them. It made a change anyway to break out from the darkness that engulfs the Cornice and actually climb in sunlight!Four Doors beckons next along with what is supposedly one of the best 8b's in the Peak, Bricktop!Ceuse is looking more and more promising and if all goes to plan we'll be flying out on July 1st for a whole month at one of the most amazing crags in the world!

Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Bricktop Action
26 June 2011, 4:11 pm

Had a really good sesh on Bricktop the other day, and it certainly lived up to everything I've heard. It climbs incredibly well on perfectly formed holds and is a total power enduro fest! Unfortunately my attempts were slightly hindered by a couple of wet holds but as soon as they dry it could be game on... Word to JC for the wicked shots he got with his spanking new camera! Check them out!

Yesterday however was a pretty epic fail. Grim doesn't even come close to describing the weather in the peaks. Its never a good sign as you're  walking towards the crag and you see guys with clip-sticks and glum faces walking away and back to the car park. Yesterday morning was one of those times and we were quickly told the Cornice was soaked! We decided to have a run down anyway and sure enough the place was gopping. Not a single route dry, so we decided on bailing to the Tor, collecting people to take with us on the walkout, who also had Cornice plans for the day.

While the Tor was drier the conditions were shocking and many people bailed and called it a day. I hear its still pretty soggy most places today but looks as if this heat is set to rollover into tomorrow, so we'll see what pans out. Not too worried though as this time next week we'll be sunning it up in the south of France with a strong crew and miles of world class rock! We fly out to Nice on Friday then onto the mecca that is Ceuse, for 4 weeks. Bring it on!

Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Ceuse!
4 July 2011, 8:39 am

So we are all having a much needed rest day today, everyone is sat  chilling around  their tents slowly waking up. We spent around 10 hours  up at the crag yesterday getting pumped and burnt to a crisp so we are  all going swimming today in some amazing Gorge!

Yesterday was also a pretty good sesh for the crew with both Ed and Luke  flashing the famous 8a Carte Blanche! Props to you boys! Its taking me a  while to adjust to the climbing here as the routes are sooooo chuffing  long and pumpy but I'm told that within a week we'll be tuned into the  style and ready to crush! There are some incredible lines here,  virtually every one a classic, its a super inspiring place with lots of  syked people around. We've met some pretty cool climbers already from  all over including some Spanish, German, Italian, American and of course  plenty of French dudes! The walk-in yesterday took just under an hour  and is a bit of a trek but I'm sure by the end of the trip we'll have it  dialed, it certainly will get you fit. The campsite is pretty nice  place to hang out with plenty of table tennis going down and the  occasional campus session on the 45 board in the barn!

Ed flashing the classic 'Carte Blanche'

Biographie worship!

The journey over here from England went also went good with no major  problems to report. We arrived in Nice Friday afternoon and was  instantly greeted with heat that just pounded you in the face. After  converging with some of the local crew we made our way to Hotel  Pastoral, right in the centre of Nice and once checked in we bombed it  down to the beach and took an amazing swim in the incredibly warm sea! I  don't think the temperature dropped much below 28 degree for the rest of  the night, which is amazing!

Anyway its time for a brew with the crew and sort out the plans for  later. Only managed to sort through a few pictures so far but we'll get  some more uploaded soon.

Peace out! Allez!

Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Ceuse continued...
10 July 2011, 8:09 am



We've been in Ceuse for a week now, hanging with everyone ticking their way through some of the classics. Its taken a while to get adjusted to the style here and build up a decent amount of of fitness but its feeling like we might be getting somewhere.

A few big sends have gone down with Ed ticking the 8b Violent Illusion earlier in the week and bagging an onsight of Soeurs Froides (8a+). Yesterday he also sent Ami de Tout le Monde, second go, another classic 8b of the crag. Luke also sent it second go and the rest of us are keen to put some work in to get it done as well! Respect!

Friday we drove into Gap to pick up Kitty from the station who will be joining us for a couple of weeks and after we headed up to the crag for a quick evening hit where a few of the guys sent Bourinator.

Our last rest day saw us take a trip to the gorge to check out the amazing swimming that we had heard about. Its a super cool place to hang out and chill with plenty of jumps and deep pools! We'll certainly be spending a lot of time there over the coming weeks. Check out the pictures!

A lot more people seem to have arrived in the last few days and we have continued to meet plenty of cool climbers from all over the world.

Most of the camp seem to be on a rest day today so we might all head back to the gorge or take a trip into town, chill out and hope for a send fest tomorrow! Bring on the pump!

Outs! X

Sam sending The Bourinator in the evening light



Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

End of the road...
31 July 2011, 8:47 am

Our time in Ceuse is drawing to a close and it will soon be time to pack up and head back to the Peak. Many of our crew have already returned home or moved onto their next destination, but their are still a few of us keeping it real here. We are on our final rest day before two full days of climbing were we are all hoping to send our projects and finish on a high. It has been an amazing four weeks out here, climbing at one of the best crags in the world, hanging out and visiting lots cool places. I'll try to get a full end of trip post done sometime when I get back home.

The crew in Gap ready for the Tour de France

Everyone has continued to tick their way through the classic lines here with Ed getting a number of awesome onsights of some the cliffs hard lines! Good F youth! Along with this we have all also continued to meet lots of new people and plenty of strong WADS, the latest are a bunch of South Africans who have been keeping the camp alive with us! Many thanks to Dirk Smith for spending a good few hours dangling from a rope snapping pictures of us all. I'll be posting them up when they are all available. Below are a couple he took the other evening. In the mean time check out the guys website to see some more of his work. www.dirksmith.smugmug.com

Sam on the upper section of L'ami Caouette (8a)

Carte Blanche

Finally a big shout out to Caff for his recent ascent of The Big Bang! Mega respect bro!

That is all geeza's! Peace out and catch you when we all get back home!

Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Ceuse photo dump
12 August 2011, 5:39 pm

Rather than write an epic on the Ceuse trip I thought I'd post up a big stash of photos along with some video and let them do all the talking instead. Peace out to all the amazing people we met out there, I'm sure we'll be back for more in the future! Check out the Hamer blog for a run down on some of wicked lines those boys crushed and I believe Robbie will be writing up a big report for UKC sometime soon.

Once again a huge shout out to Dirk Smith for some of the pictures, cheers bro! www.dirksmith.smugmug.com

Word up to the lads in Austria and good luck to Ed and everyone competing in Imst over the coming days.

Sans peur et sanglier, 7c+

L'Arcadémicien, 8c

Andy Pedley pulling hard at Demi Lune

Sam high on the flash at Orpierre

Nice

Chilling with the crew on a wet day at Orpierre

Rest day

L'ami de tout le monde

One night in the woods...

Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Waiting...
29 August 2011, 2:01 pm

Nothing major has gone down since the last post, just lots of waiting around for Bricktop to dry out. It finally dried enough to have a first redpoint a week or so back making good progress and feeling strong so we'll see what happens. In between we've been ticking our way through some of the hidden crags around the Peak. With the good old crag of Turkey Dip getting a bit of action. Last week we made quick ascents of the crags crack classic Step On It (7c+) and Jons offering, Unleashed (7c). Forgotten just how good this little venue is, wicked for a quick evening or afternoon hit.

Tomorrow we are heading up to Malham for a couple of days to meet up with Robbie and Nat, who have been crushing hard up there for the last few weeks. Props to those geeza's! There are a few things I'm syked to finish off and have a barney on and it'll be good to have a change of scene.

Some more photo's have come through from the Ceuse trip so check them out below.

And Last but not least a huge big up to Ed for his recent success at the youth worlds in Imst, amazing effort and super stoked for ya bro. Peace.



Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

The end is in sight
4 September 2011, 9:52 am

Yesterday I came super close to ticking Bricktop, falling from the last hard throw at the top twice. The holds that had been wet and causing the problems previously were the driest they had been in weeks, so it was game on and straight from the first go I managed a new highpoint, peeling off halfway up the head wall. In the end my skin gave in but I know I can do this thing now so I'm uber keen to get back down next week and finish it off. Fingers crossed it stays dry folks!

Another good scene at the Cornice yesterday with Dobbin powering his way up Roof Warrior and Dafydd getting Jug Jockey wrapped up quickly. Good skills youths!

Now we're into September its getting to that time of year again when grit season is just around the corner. We have so many things on the list to do this year and really hoping it will be a repeat of the wicked season of last. There are still a good couple months left, and if I can get this thing done then I would be syked to have a look at a few other lines before the lime craps out.

Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Won the race!
5 September 2011, 9:26 pm

With the weather looking pretty grim for tomorrow I quickly acquired my Dads belaying services as he got in from work and we bombed it to Chee Dale in the hope my route Bricktop would still be dry. On the walk in we were told it was bomber which got us syked that I might be in with a chance. It was still super dry and after warming up I set off for a barney, feeling strong as ever and pulling past my high point from Saturday, only to fluff it on the last move and watch in dismay as my fingers uncurled from the holds and I went flying through the air. Really need to sort out the whole falling from the last move thing! Tom Randall... any ideas? After a good long rest I tied in again for a second go and managed to send the thing! It is a fantastic line so massive props to Kristian for rigging it up! And cheers to my Dad for coming out and giving us a catch.

Best 8b in the Peak?



Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Big Roof
11 September 2011, 12:11 pm

Gran Techo is by far the biggest roof climb I've been on and another offering from new route master Kristian Clemnow. I tried the line for the first time on Thursday and as I approached the roof I was at first blown away by the steepness and intimidating nature routes like this can have. Luckily the first ascensionist was on hand close by, continuing his quest for new lines, and was able to shout up the 'improbable' beta that unlocks the Font 7C crux through the horizontal world. By the end of the session I had done all the moves and was syked to try it some more. I returned yesterday super eager and with my ever keen belayer to give it another blast and was able to go from the ground to the lip of the roof! From here a series of powerful pulls land you at some jugs and hopefully victory. Eventually the arms powered out, the skin started wearing thin and we bailed but stoked to see the progression. Fingers crossed yet again that it stays dry so I can try get it done. Really cool to see my good homie Ted yesterday too, eager to get back climbing after his long layoff since we returned from Ceuse. Keep it real man, get those fingers crushing again!

Oh yeah and check out the new ride! Stoked.



Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Dovers and Nudders
19 September 2011, 9:00 pm

I've spent the last couple of days hanging out with the hamer boys at  their ghetto Over Haddon crib! Saturday we drove to Dovedale to try JC's  new 8a 'Sworn Enemy' which covers some amazing terrain before finishing  up the classic Arch Enemies. Ed and Sam both got the second go tick so  big up to them, but massive props to Jon for putting up this thing. A  true and wicked line. I'm hoping to go back over the next week to finish  it off and complete my full crag tick! Venga!

Sunday I took the geezers to the little unknown venue of Nuda's Tartan!  Ted came along for this one and within a couple hours we just about  ticked the crag between us, with some strong flashes from Ed. Word to  Ted for crushing hard so close to his comeback from injury.

We are going to try get back on Gran Techo this week as well so hoping  that goes good. Got a load of snaps from't dale below so check them out  init.

And cheers to Denise for all the food, brews, and a mattress!

Outz



Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Approaching season yeah!
17 October 2011, 7:10 pm

Its been ages since the last post, however there hasn't been massive amounts of news to share, we have mostly been trying a couple of projects on and off, as the weather has been slightly unpredictable over the last few weeks. Had a trip up to Malham about a week ago with Zippy and crew and we are hoping to get up again sometime this week, if the snow holds off long enough...

We appear to have been suddenly hit by cold temps of late, so yesterday me and Sam hit up Froggatt for some first grit action of the season! We quested through the bracken searching for some of the blocs that lay off the beaten track, and it turned out to be dope conditions and a perfect grit evening!

Nudders has been getting some more action and recent ticks include 'Iron Flag' and 'Bobby Digital', really cool problems and its been good to see other people checking the place out just lately. I got pretty close on The Vulcan last time out, a frickin' tough eliminate that breaks out from the 7C Calorie Count, so we'll be back for that at some point.

Super syked for the grit, but I'm sure there is still a couple more weeks to squeeze in some more lime action, so hopefully we can get a few more ticks before getting stuck back into the other stuff!

Peace out ya'll

Chilling on the Catwalk, cheers Adam bru!



Source: Climbing life and experiences

[comPiler]

Return of the GRIT!
25 October 2011, 10:42 am

Its that time of year again when the limestone starts to crap out, the temps begin to drop and the grit starts calling. I headed to the Cornice with Ted and Barrows at the weekend and things are difinitely dead down there, with most things soaked and looking pretty grim. We decided on bailing to Nuda's later in the afternoon where I cranked my way up 'The Vulcan" just an eliminate really but hard one at that! And Ted sent Enigma, as well as coming close on Stumped, a total 'out there' roof problem, I'm sure he'll crush it next visit. Cheers for the video homie! Follow the link to check it out.

Post

Sunday it was all about the grit, we walked towards Froggatt, weighed down with pads and super syked for a change of scene. First up was the burly classic of Rambeu (7B) which was quickly dispatched before moving onto Teds main goal, Sole Power, a brilliant 7C  highball arete originally E5 6c!

After getting some beta from Froggatt master Heason I was able to stick the crux and delicately move on up the arete and to the ledge! Wicked way to kick off the grit season and super stoked! Ted was next to send in the fading light and then Adam stepped up for another try and also dispatched. Awesome team send with a real good crowd, big up the guys who chucked their pads down with ours!

Just off to hit of Burbage South with the Hamers so in abit ya'll

Out x

Just had a few pictures sent me from Revelations early in the season, nice one Matt.



Source: Climbing life and experiences