[i_a_coops]

Goals: Keep the fucking faith.

M - Rest
T - Millstone. Break heel.
W - Hospital, don't remember much
T - Hospital, did some situps
F - Get back home
S - Strained neck doing one armers
S - downloaded On Sight to make up for not climbing/walking/driving for a while. It only goes and starts off with footage of the route that broke me! 


My operation should happen and the beastmaker should arrive in the next week, so I'm looking forward to getting going with healing and training.

As for Master's Edge....

I think I want to go back and do it. Not for the E7 tick, not because it's an amazing line, but because it hurt me. I'm generally too competitive, and try to control that, but here I don't think there's any point lying to myself about how I feel about this route. I won't be happy if I can't say to myself 'someday, I'm going back to Millstone'.

Next time (and it'll be a long time before my ankles are ready), I'm taking the esoteric gear to protect the first bit, and ideally a mattress or two... but I'm still going ground up. I'm going to be much better at climbing then. That's always been the most basic goal: 'be better in the future than I am now'. I'm going to want to measure myself against the Ian that couldn't do Master's Edge, just because it had such big consequences. It's not very logical, but neither is wanting to 'climb 8b' or 'climb half a grade harder than my previous best'. When I do climb Master's Edge, there will be no 'Master's Edge Plus' to instantly start fixating on, I'll have completed something that I started years ago, and I'll feel like I've fully recovered. That seems worth it to me.

For the foreseeable future, though, I'm going to stick to sport climbing and bimbly trad, to try and avoid stressing my ankles. Another thing I'm going to work on is keeping future Power Club posts free of rambling about whether or not it's worth wanting to get back on some poxy quarried route

[Fultonius]

Good week!

STG May 2011: Onsight E4 in the Hebrides, a new >7b route outside, repeat some problems at Dumby - Consolidated 7B+, Mugsy Traverse 7B, Mestizo Traverse 7B, Slap Happy 7A~, Mestizo Sitter (7A+ with a testing heel hook for my gimp leg)

LTG: E5 O/S, Fr8a, >7C

This week:

wt. 78.1kg (-0.3kg)

M: Routes at the wall. Some new stuff so just trying to get the flow, onsighting as much as possible. Flashed a 7a+ and various other things up to that.
T: More routes at the wall, can't remember what, but it was good :-)
W: Nothing
T: More routes at the wall, got up some stuff, got owned on a 7b+ Did some bouldering - seem to be back up to about the V5/6 mark.
F: Quick Dumby session. Nearly retro-flashed slap happy (7A 2 move wonder) but nearly = FAIL! Then...the project has begun! Got on Sufference, Fr8a route. Worked out all the moves up to the 2nd crux and I'm about 2 moves from the next bolt. After that it's a formality!  Truly psyched that it seems a possiblility!
S: Wedding - 
S: Trad chuffing at Limekilns. Mild hangover and 18 months since doing any trad led into having a right gibber on an E2, but got to the top. Later soloed a VSs and an E1, starting to feel a bit more like a climber again!

[205Chris]

Good luck with the recovery Ian and props for the desire to get back on the route.

STGs: Grit Highballing
MTG: Sport 8a this summer

Wound up in Font last week at short notice so:

S: Buthiers. Warmed up and tried Master's Edge. Get to the last move within a few goes but can't figure out the move to the big hueco / pod thing. Persisted with it but no tick. Probably invested a bit too much energy and not the start to the trip I hoped for.

M: Franchard Cusiniere. Ticked Le Magnifique for the first 7a of the trip quickly followed by Impasse du Hazard. Fell off Pensees Cachees on my last go of the day with both hands on top of the boulder (annoying). Disappointingly there are no number of Frenchmen screaming 'Allez' that will guarantee success.

T: Petit Bois. Ticked Big Jim and did some circuit problems.

W: Cuvier. Flashed Duroxmanie. Took it easy the rest of the day.

T: Apremont. Bad choice of crag in hindsight as it was baking hot in the sun. Did manage Clin D'oeil though.

F: Warm up at Roche aux Sabots and then back to Cusiniere for unfinished business. Rinsed up Pensees Cachees first go feeling strong. Shame it was our last day really.

S: Travel Back

S: Burbage South. Pick up a few ticks I'd not done before: Violence, Little Gem & Guppy arete thing. Had a go on Trellis but couldn't commit to the top move due to a lack of pads. Felt very close to Desparete too but the move to the break is a bit too harsh on my already trashed skin.

If this weather continues then hopefully it'll be sport climbing from now on. I only ticked 2 of the 5 highballs on my original list but I did manage plenty of others plus a few bonus snowballs so I'm not going to worry too much.

Off to Siurana in 4 weeks, time to dust off the sport rope and Gri-Gri.

[Three Nine]

Another thing I'm going to work on is keeping future Power Club posts free of rambling about whether or not it's worth wanting to get back on some poxy quarried route

Yes I could have done without reading such self-indulgent bullshit.

[Luthor]

STG  - Get out and climb; Stay psyched; train well, not get injured...
MTG  - F8a Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.


Mon     - rest
Tue     - Bouldering at the Works
Wed     - Worked cairn at Harpur Hill. Failed first red-point attempt at top - ran out of time to try again 
Thurs   - Tired. Light circuit sess at works.
Fri     - After work bouldering at Higger Tor
Sat     - Bouldering at Secret Garden and Owler Tor. Didn't do Beach Ball :-)
Sun     - busy/rest

Good getting out in the Peak this week.

[duncan]

STG: Fiesta de los Biceps
MTG: E5

Mon - Sat: Some gentle jogs and the usual shoulder stability exercises.
Sun: Inconsequential fingerboard dangle.  Shoulder doesn't like this.

First week with no training or climbing since signing up to Power Club.  Post-Rum ennui, a cold, demanding work/partner/offspring and my climbing wall membership running out.  Perhaps a short break was needed. 

Next week: knuckle down to some serious fitness training for those Riglos patatas.

[i_a_coops]

Another thing I'm going to work on is keeping future Power Club posts free of rambling about whether or not it's worth wanting to get back on some poxy quarried route

Yes I could have done without reading such self-indulgent bullshit.

As always, you speak the truth. I won't do it again! TBH I didn't think anyone really read my power club entries...

[nai]

Good luck with the recovery, everyone needs a bit of a ramble from time to time, that was quite a good one.

Aims

m - curbar, nice warm up doing 7 problems from 8 attempts then it all went wrong when I couldn't do Art of Japan and lost skin trying.
t - rest
w - 50 pullups, 90 pressups, 300 rep core (forgot to do 2 exercises)
t - 250 core reps (didn't get chance to do the last few)
f - quicky at gardoms, 6 nice short solos (+ bottled the E2 thing, will return with a second pad) then tried double bum but couldn't touch the initial pop. (since seen a vid and realised that trying to do it static on such shit footholds probably aint the way, will get back to it at some point)
s - a day of reckoning, tried to OS 7a at 2tier but nowhere near, little problem on RP.  Had a quick work on Sturgeon but could barely do the moves let alone link them, having come so close to doing it last year.
s - Roaches - shaky start getting scared on Valikyrie but then led Elegy - woosh - and did a few other bits.  Finished with some bouldering on Calcutta Buttress in the evening sun and felt very content and a little bit nostalgic having had many similar days here 20 or so years ago.

Saturday was a wake up call, need to knuckle down to some endurance work.  Unfortunately off to Font next week so it'll have to wait.

[aly]

STG: one-armer and front lever. 

MTG (by the summer): 7B and/or 7c   still just need 7c now

LTG (in 2011): 7C and/or 8a (preferably both)

LLTG (by end of 2012): 8b (if you're going to aim it might as well be high)

Mon: Campus session at Stoke, feeling pretty strong due to a few days rest.  Managed 1-3-6 which is a personal best, the goal is to eventually crack 1-4-7 but that's going to take some work.  Also had a play on the 45 and repeated pretty much all the problems I've ever managed on it which was nice.

Tues: Bouldering session at Gentleman's Rock, repeated all the stuff I managed last year and finally ticked the full bloody traverse, mini yyfy.

Weds: One-armer and core session.  Core is getting on but not making much improvement on the one-armer. Still, can do from about 45 to the top with 2kg assistance so it's getting there.

Thurs: Campus session at Stoke and a quick play on the 45.  Feeling pretty tired, and my skin gave up so the campusing wasn't as good as monday.  Still managed to have a good warm-down on the board and ticked a new problem.

Fri: mainly resting, had a quick core and one-armer session.

Sat: Bouldering at the tor, managed to repeat every boulder problem I've ever managed there in 1 or 2 goes so seeing some proper consolidation.  Even managed a new tick on the pinches wall!  Feeling quite strong so I just need to start ticking some harder things.

Sun: High Tor trad.  Feeling battered/still pumped from saturday but still managed to drag myself up E5 which I've never really been able to do so that was a bit of a confidence boost, roll on summer!

[aly]

As always, you speak the truth. I won't do it again! TBH I didn't think anyone really read my power club entries...

Ouch!  Sounds pretty nasty.  All the best with the recovery, and keep the psyche.

[shark]

Thanks for starting thread i_a_coops ...and don't take any shit from that bitter cumudgeon three-nine. Wanna know his pearl of train wisdom advice today? "It's best to go on hard routes when you're climbing well". 
Weight 11.8

M. Foundry Evening with boys. An hour's bouldering and then good 4 x 3 session. Afterwards discovered I should have done a different session   
T.  Eve. Edge with boys. Desultory session doing 30 problems in a bouldering room full of kids mine included. Got hit on the head by one who catapulted off. 
W.
T. Eve. Foundry with poppy. 40 move PE circuit 8 times with 5 mins rest based around pink L2 problem on rt side of wave. Pumpy.
F. Some dbs complexes in afternoon. Eve, Foundry with boys. Worked pink anf black spots did repeats on 3/4 others till mithered by Ben to go home
S. AM. Foundry. Finger work on Wave, beastmaker and campus board. PM Drove boys to hacve a session at Wolf Mountain (venue of YCS final)
S. Malham. Hot to begin with. Climbed with AndyF mainly. 2x F&E. 4 goes on Baboo. Re-engineered crux to do it the way everyone else does it (except Serpico). Only taken 18 years for the penny to drop.

Another heavy week training (8 sessions) and busy at work too. Font in 2 weeks. 

[Muenchener]

STG: Power Endurance Phase of Winter Training Plan.
   Redpoint 6b+ (probably indoors) before Easter
          200 practice falls before Easter. Current score: 85
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M:
T:  yoga
W: Wall, Thalkirchen: short sharp PE bouldering early morning before work. 15 mins ARC warm-up, 2 4x4s, 20 minutes harder traversing
T:
F: Konstein with Frau M. Some warm-up routes, then: Mittlere Weisse Wand: 1, Muenchener: nil. nnfn. At least I succeeded with the secondary(*) goal: no backing off without falling off.
S: birthday party
S: mobility, core, shoulders

(*) Actually more important than success of failure on any particular route

[Three Nine]

Thanks for starting thread i_a_coops ...and don't take any shit from that bitter cumudgeon three-nine. Wanna know his pearl of train wisdom advice today? "It's best to go on hard routes when you're climbing well". 
Weight 11.8

You'll be getting my coaching bill in the post tomorrow.

Another heavy week training (8 sessions) and busy at work too. Font in 2 weeks. 

[Falling Down]

Goals - 7B, 7c, E5 (OS)
STG - 7B, Redpoint 7b, Trad E3

M - Felt rough all day - 30 minute easy run in evening.
T - Aberdeen: Bodyweight exercises in hotel room (Squats, Pressups, Burpees, Situps) 8 sets of 20 secs on 10 rest of each.
W - Reading: Another hotel room after work - 5k row (19:45) + 50 lat pulldowns
T - London: Stretching before 
F - London/Home: Nowt, knackered
S - Chores... chilled out knackered
S - Cheedale sport to 6c+, rested on a 7a - feeling a mild cold.

Another really hectic week with several planes, trains, cars, taxis and long days.  Pretty happy in retrospect having managed to squeeze in training of some sort on 5 days out of 7.  First time out bolt clipping yesterday and was moving OK - just tired and have a mild cold so endurance was low.

This week: Day off tomorrow so hope to get out on the afternoon and climb both days at weekend.

[andybfreeman]

STG - dprt finger
Otehr goals as before 7C & 8a

M - Circuits at TCA - laps on orange 6c on steep board and green (felt 6c ish) on flatter board. Small holds felt ok with no cranking so finger seems to be on mend. Still plan on taking it easy for this week and next though…

Tu - Mix of circuits and easy problems. Struggled with psyche but problems helped - lots of slopers

W - pure circuits session. Really struggled with psyche but managed 2 hours of mind numbing boredom

Th - Fun problems session with Lorraine. New reds (nothing harder than 6A) were a welcome distraction from the never ending circuits! Also did a couple of the orange circuit (nothing harder than 6C) and made good progress on a slopey blue. Finger felt pretty solid but still being very careful to open hand only. Surprisingly strong on harder moves so there is still hope for a good font trip!

F - Light TCA session - fun on problems but only 90 minutes

Sa - rest

Su - Dartmoor easy bouldering. Got close to wave but struggled with left hand due to dodgy finger. Bolton complexes at home

I've restricted my diet in a desperate attempt to prevent excess chub for font. Read racing weight (recommended by DM) and am following the principles it outlines- aim for change in composition, not just weight loss, increasing quality of diet, aiming for 30% protein and spreading 3 meals into 5 or six mini meals/snacks. Based on weight loss thus far it's very effective but this week has been attacking the low hanging fruit. The next 4 weeks will be spent targeting  fat loss at hopefully 0.5 kg per week. Aiming for sub-10% fat, which should be achievable...

Result of the above is that i weighed 68.3kg this morning !

[Barratt]

Nothing all week, looking forward to exercise.

[chris05]

STG: 7A
MTG: 7B etc

M: 3xDB complex, 4.5m run & core (500)
T: 3xDB complex, BM (3x30 foot on moves, pull-ups, max hangs) & core(500)
W: 3xDB complex, BM pull-ups, 4.5m run & core (500)
T: 3xDB complex, BM (3x30 foot on moves, max hangs) & core (500)
F: rest
S: surfing
S: am: surfing, pm: 9m fell run in N. Yorkshire

A good training week, had to sacrifice climbing this weekend as the waves looked to be quite good. Turned out to be a little disappointing but great to be out and felt as though I was surfing well for me.

[TobyD]

M: 4 mile run
T: Malham, bit warm; did all the moves, with some pedestrian links on GBH twice and a few 7a / a+s for mileage in the sun
W: 4 mile run
T : Leeds wall bouldering circuit to V6ish, repeaters on small campus rung and 5 easy 30 move circuits.
F: soloing at almscliff about ten mostly HVS pitches
S: slate, session on the dark half; awesome but hard - all moves but one done ok.
S: slate, few awesome easier things, and tried heatseeker; awesome but ... yeah anyway.   Remembered how to mantle, which was fortunate in the circumstances. 

[webbo]

Mon.Woke up with sore throat and snotty nose so did nothing.
Tue.still feeling crap.decided to go in to work later than normal,suddenly inspired to do a weights session.After work Rockcity not bad session to stay I'd done weights early.
Wed.Due to still having cold decided against going out on the bike.
Thu.Rockcity managed to repeat all the previous problems and managed a v3+.
Fri.Nothing
Sat.went to Huntsman rocks Forrest of Dean.Did various things including Golden Bicep first from standing then from sitting.Pleased with this as it gets a bit high at the top.Went all Adrenalin burbley afterwards.
Sun.Nothing felt shit all day.
Not a great week due to having a cold,visit to Huntsmans was highlight of year so far.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals as before..

M: Beastmaker session - Felt tired but completed what needed doing.
T: 4x4's @ The Edge - Still tired for some reason, kept the intensity low but still threw in some 6c+'s in the latter half of the session for good measure.
W: Rest
T: Mamouth Works session - AnCap on circuit board, started badly, got better, finished apallingly after overcooking it and coming 2 moves away from completing the yellow circuit
AeroCap to finish.. Managed a good 800+ moves over the evening!
F: Rest
S: Boulder at Bowden and Kyloe, 3 x 10 min AeroCap citcuits at the far end of Kyloe (much to the ammusement of my mates - Bastards!) 
S: Trape into Callerhues - Do some highballs, get scared! Do some bouldering, narrowly fail to do a 7a+.

Did a fair bit... Was tired tho.

This week: Hardest week yet! 4x4's, AeroCap, AnCap, Hard Moves, Max Hangs, Repeaters, Weights

:D

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Tick something, anything, from my 2011 aims list!

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2011 (still a bit ambitious).
Continue trying to keep the weight down (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.




M-  Work, wine.
T-  Work, wine.
W-  Revisited Cadshaw, did a new 7a wall problem.  Failed on my projects.  Shifted to Brownstones and failed to nail the Ridiculous Dyno.
T- Work, wine.
F-  Work, wine.
S-  Work, wine.
S-  Woodwell with Nik at Work.  I failed on Screaming Slave, did worse than last time I was here.  Not Bad Dave was damp, so after a cream tea we went to Hyning and I failed on everything.  Awesome.

Monday weigh in of 87kg. 

[tomtom]

Good luck with the recovery... :/

STG 7C
Nothing all week (except sniffle, cough and drink) save for...
Thursday: Cheeky trip to Burbage W. Got up the nose in good style (after a few trys!), floundered on WSS, failed on breakfast

[fried]

Too much work last week and too many obligations at the weekend to do much but...

Monday - work
Tuesday - work
Wednesday - indoor session plus weights/core
Thursday - First visit to physio, he tells me most of my shoulder problems are down to having the posture of a monkey, which came as no great surprise.
Friday - work
Saturday - Wear a piece of finger tape across my back to stop me slouching (as recommended by someone on here) that works a treat, unfortunately my GF gets up earlier than me during the week, so I can only do this at the weekend.
Sunday - Short indoor session 'cos I forgot the clocks went forward....

weight 75.5kg

[Loner]

When I do climb Master's Edge, I'll have completed something that I started years ago, and I'll feel like I've fully recovered. That seems worth it to me.

Top attitude. I wish you a speedy recovery.


Mon- finger rehab, back rehab
Tues- finger rehab, back rehab (stretches only), push ups
Wed- crosstrainer, leg stretching, finger rehab, pushups, back rehab (stretches only), forearm stretches
Thurs- pain in right bicep, finger rehab, forearm stretches, back rehab
Fri- finger rehab, physio ball
Sat- crosstrainer, leg stretching, finger rehab, back rehab
Sun- finger rehab

[cheque]

STG: 6C on grit would be nice before it's too hot.
MTG: E1 on big cliffs this summer. E2, 7a and 7A before end of 2011.
LTG: Onsighting long E4s before my planned 2013 USA trip.

M- Chasecliffe. Easy solos as I didn't take a mat.
T- Chasecliffe. Easy bouldering. Too knackered to commit to anything demanding-feeling. Only went as I left my guidebook there!
W- Indoor bouldering. Not really trying hard as still tired.
T- Much-needed rest.
F- Much-needed rest.
S- Chasecliffe. More bouldering and soloing. Excited by week of dryness I checked out Duke's Quarry-  .
S-Chatsworth- got scared on the seemingly ever-present dampness, but finally did a route I'd failed on twice. Soloing at Birchen later, including those ones where you squirm through caves.

Just been climbing as much as possible now it's dryer and lighter and I have my own wheels. Planning to continue this 'til the clocks go back as it seems the best way for me to improve and it's pretty much exactly what I want to do with my life right now. Although it's not been an impressive week in terms of grades, I climbed 'four days on' for the first time since August and I can feel my technique and fitness are improving every day.

[Andy F]

I have been remiss in not post here more often, need a  to get me back on track.

Aims - 8b in Yorkshire, 8a outside Yorkshire, 7B+ boulder.

Mon - rest skin
Tues - volume at the Hangar, felt very jaded, climbed badly bit still put in some volume. Left bicep felt achey
Wed/Thurs - rest, recover
Fri - good fingerboard session
Sat - felt the effects of the fingerboard, good.
Sun - Malham. 7a+ x 2 to warm up. Clips in Scavenger and waited for the cloud. Had 3 good goes, learnt a lot on the sharp end, got the crux fully sorted, just need a bit more fitness to finish it off. Although it's short it packs the moves in. I counted 10 hand movements to go 5 ft on the crux! Typical Malham I guess. Skin thin at the end, but not as bad as the week before - obviously getting 'crag skin' back. Shouted advice at Shark, some of which was, for once, useful 

[robertostallioni]

Aims - 8b in Yorkshire, 8a outside Yorkshire, 7B+ boulder.

Cheeky bastard. 

[Adam Lincoln]

STG: Fiesta de los Biceps

Off next week to do this Dunc.  Ill report back.

[duncan]

Cheers Adam.  It will be useful to have it chalked-up in advance!

I have a feeling this will be quite a challenge.  Traddy-slabby 6c is one thing, steep 6c+ potatoes is a completely different game for me.

[Pebblespanker]

STG Font 7a, or as close as I can get to V6/Font 7a, by end 2011 (current best Font 6c+),
MTG English 6c in some shape or form by end 2012
LTG to have functional fingers post 50!

Still taking it steady to ensure finger joint fully recovered, very busy at work

Mon - Rest and working late
Tue-  Fingerboard - One arm locks on large holds, OH Encores and repeaters on middle sized slots - going great till the board fell off the fecking wall with me attached!  note to self: review DIY skills   
Wed-    Refixed board to wall with beefy frame fixings, tested and now solid
Thu-  A few DHs and working late
Fri-  Flew North after work
Sat - lazy day with rugby on the telly, cooking canelloni and with the fiance 
Sun - Glen Lednock - good day. retro flashed fingery Font 6A+ and thuggy 6B+ traverses. Worked the northern target route Rock Around the Block (Font 7A)  and managed to finally find a repeatable sequence that works for me, then mananged to link the crux in to the 6A+ for the first time. Now just need more PE to link the thuggy 6b+ into the rest of problem  well happy as the crux link is meant to be english 6c (soft 6c if I can do it) but this has taken several sessions over 2 years to suss out, worth the effort as its a good problem and fingery as f*ck on the crux, finger joints came through with no issues!! Also found vimeo footage of the problem where the guy misses out the hard bit of the 6B+, none of that faggy behaviour for me, its power all the way!

[mark s]

Goals-lift heavier
Plenty of new places climbed up on(no grade goals)
Mon-chest/arms moved more wieght more times than previous week
Tue-rest
Wed-shoulders/back
Thur_roaches,bit of soloin and bouldering upto 7a
Fri-legs
Sat-not a lot,sat around with gf waiting
Sun-macc hospital and watched my daughter join the world.