[Bubba]

Well fuck me, I actually got out bouldering for once  :D

Brilliant day - went to Eagle Tor and had a right laff - nearly got Brad's Arete again but not quite.

Did some of the other classics and met a man like TommyTwoTone who was out for a walk - nice to meet you fella  

All in all a great crispy day out.

Whadya all get up to?

[dave]

took friday off work - went to stanage, had the shakes all day. Got no-where on brad pit again. touched the top of the storm then couldn't get anywhere near it, then split a tip. salvaged the day by doing crescent arete and green trav/reverse, but it sucked to be out on a glorious day climbing like shite.

today, met tha boyz at curbar. scouse pulled hurricane out of the bag (finally) - effort. i tagged the top a few times which i was happy with considering bad skin. cofe was oh so close yet again. tried bens wall/great white. went to burbage south for sunset, dutch master killa did tiger for photo. then tried midget gem in horrendous cold, we got close!

[Jim]

froze tits off at earl crag, so went to caley and froze tits of there slightly less. did new jeresulm, the pinch & mr smooth. ripped skin off left hand in 2 finger pocket on blockbuster  and didn't do it. never got warmed up as such so didn't do much. had cracking pint of black sheep at woodies ale house on way home :D . hot bath then some green king ipa by the fire on its way :D  :D

[dave]

good idea - i might crack open a wentworth wpa. :drink:

[mark]

Saturday was my day out. Went to Robin Hood's Stride intent on Grizzly Arete. Got warmed up then got comprehensively spanked by GA. Couldn't finda sequence out that wasn't too powerful for me and then split a tip. Great conditions so no excuses available. Arse.

Then spotted John Welford on a good looking new highball problem at Welford 7b+ that I couldn't touch. Salvaged some pride by repeating Jerry's Arete but at the cost of another bleeding fingertip.

[fatboySlimfast]

was that when we saw you Mark?
as we retreated for some warmth then for a battle against the tombstone in sub zero.
How did the welford get on with Big Al Queda?

Top day today wit Bubba, eagle and Rowtor, rowtor being particularly fine for the OFFWIDTH on the chip shop boulder(abyss, percy prob?) , urrgghhh me abs and forearms are scraped to fuk. i actually felt sick half way up from not breathing cos every time i took a breath i slipt bak down the crack. Go do it its classic!

[Dolly]

Saturday was my alloted time as well.
Thought I'd have a "serious" look at Famous Grouse. Oh dear - at least I can cross Burb W off my list again. Took me 4 goes to get WSS cos my skin was skidding off everything despite it being perfectly cold.
Went to Burb N only to experience the same on Blind Fig.
Thought it might be "dad skin syndrome" but on reflection I think I was just shite.
Maybe less time on the bike and more on the rock ?

[mark]

was that when we saw you Mark?
as we retreated for some warmth then for a battle against the tombstone in sub zero.
How did the welford get on with Big Al Queda?

Top day today wit Bubba, eagle and Rowtor, rowtor being particularly fine for the OFFWIDTH on the chip shop boulder(abyss, percy prob?) , urrgghhh me abs and forearms are scraped to fuk. i actually felt sick half way up from not breathing cos every time i took a breath i slipt bak down the crack. Go do it its classic!

Yup. Bloody cold in the wind. Big Al Qaeda? Is that the arete John was on? Guess that means Big Al beat him to the first ascent? When did Al do it?

Abyss sounds like fun.

[Pantontino]

Was entertaining wife's cousin's family, but made it to Cromlech Roadside late on Saturday and nailed this month's project in perfect conditions.

Something for the Roadside completist (Scouse are you checking this?!)
Sds right side of wall on V2, trav left staying low past Edge Problem sitter into sds to Johnny's Wall, up this, but escape left into top of ramp (i.e. following line of least resistance. Excellent link, powerful, then thin, desperate and unlikely to finish. No idea what grade: V7/8? The link into Johnny's remains unclimbed (as far as I know): one for the the steel fingered hommes.

I know Moose has crossed this section of the wall r-l, but he had his feet at the level of my hands.

[Adam Lincoln]

Well fuck me, I actually got out bouldering for once  :D

Brilliant day - went to Eagle Tor and had a right laff - nearly got Brad's Arete again but not quite.

Did some of the other classics and met a man like TommyTwoTone who was out for a walk - nice to meet you fella  

All in all a great crispy day out.

Whadya all get up to?

We weere just across the road at Cratcliff. Good day

Burbage South and Stanage yesterday... Still cant do Silk :-(

[runt]

Ran around burbage north grinning in the dry! (after it pissed it down coming up the m1) until the snow caught up, nippy. Looked at some well chalked stuff in a little alcove below the edge before the sphinx bit, one problem off a big undercut to sloper then big pocket out left, another line up lhs of the little cave, any info? old news I guess?

[dobbin]

Fun day today at plantation, coverstar JimskinZ Pearsons out with 9toes, Irish SI, Hurley Burley and the Simmonite all there to laugh at this old nag flailing on BP. Got matched on the sloper of doom twice before peeling off backwards into the darkness. Moved on to the storm and got two fingers over the top for the longest second of my life before diving back down to the mats, repeated again with more psyche to no avail, finally resorting to NTBTA, crescent arete and Careless torque for sunset illuminated fun.

I love climbing.

[dave]

Looked at some well chalked stuff in a little alcove below the edge before the sphinx bit, one problem off a big undercut to sloper then big pocket out left,

jason's undercling

another line up lhs of the little cave, any info? old news I guess?

the terrace

[Greg C]

Saturday - Up Lakes early doors for good cold conditions, which paid off as I bagged my project at the Tilberthwaite Lad Stones along with a new V7 arete.

Sunday - Went to Trowbarrow climbed on the Red Wall for a couple of hours in which time my mate Tom grabbed himself a rare ascent of "Yin Yang" (good effert that man). Then went and gawped at "ll Pirita" for about 10minutes saying things like "Thats fucking insane", "But how?" and "Body tension of an ironing board!" Also had a good laugh at all the punters climbing main wall just left of the three huge loose blocks and other rock fall debris...fucking nutters! :roll:

[AndyR]

Finally nailed the project arete in Glenmac, and then surprised myself by climbing the other side as well - both of them utter quality three star problems - probably the most class arete I've ever had the privilege to climb.

[runt]

Ta dave, do you have shorties beta for that undercling problem? or is it just get proper strong?

[chappers]

first time at Caley on sun. top crag.
did new jerusalem and some high ball V5 (e4) thing on the crag boulders.
tried that block buster thing, left whimpering with bleeding fingers from the pocket, but i will return!

Greg C- when is that madrock evening in Kendal or have i missed it (or was it just a rumor all along?)

[runt]

Found that thread on the terrace area and answered my own question, sorted

[dave]

Ta dave, do you have shorties beta for that undercling problem? or is it just get proper strong?

fuck knows - i'm 6'1 so i can only really guess at: getting that intermediate shothole thing with right before the pinch, or maybe if you can bring the left hand off the best bit of the undercling to piching the main body of it might get you the required length. work right foot up the lower arete also gives you more reach for the pinch, assuming you'll be able to reach it with the heel-toe.

[Greg C]

In Reply to Chappers -
Mad Rock Demo Nights -
Kendal Wall 9th and 10th of March 2004

[Kim]

goddamn it, such good weather, so much climbing, an what did i do...got wrecked on friday night, spent saturday lying on a pad at burbage recovering, working on sunday.... bollox.   :cry:

[squeek]

Actually managed to get out both days for the first time in about 3 months last weekend.  Flashed a V4 at bridestones that I couldn't do last time, but couldn't do a V4 that I did really easily last time.  So it goes.

Went to Earl on Sunday, then decided a crag facing into the wind with no sun wasn't the best venue, and took my first trip to shipley glen which was really good, although didn't really get anything hard done and got pumped stupid on lots of easy(ish) traverses. Tried that Manson's wall, got to the two (toss) crimps then couldn't get the small flake after that, although it seemed like a very good problem.

[fatboySlimfast]

Guess that means Big Al beat him to the first ascent? When did Al do it?

First heard bout it when got back from me big trip so 2 years ago, had a go then. Now its just occured to me it might not be Als but someone elses who named it after him cos it was his project...Think patter knows or joe piccali.
Its a gruesome thing if your short, the pocket is desperate to hit and hold succesfully.

That off width is a must for all boulderers, ive stil got the grazes on my ample gut and delicate nips to prove what a struggle it is :shock:

[Bubba]

Yeah, I can tell you all really enjoyed that offwidth  :wink:







Percy's Face Arete at Eagle:


Unknown thingy at Eagle:

[Percy B]

For your enlightenment, the two piccies of the Abyss (the OW) show FBSF not necessarilly using the approved sequence, but certainly enjoying himself....I can almost smell the chaffing! I favour the knee-bar above the head and do a sit-up method, but whatever floats your boat :wink:
Third piccy looks like Face Arete - V9ish starting from low jams and climbing the right-hand side direct, or V5 if you use the block on the left and start on the jugs, bridging your way to victory.
Last one is the infamous Tourettes Arete (V5 ish) - in my humble opinion, one of my finest finds to date.
Glad the fruits of my labours are being enjoyed by people who know esoteric quality when they climb it.....