[BAndy]

Just wondering if anyone can shed some light on a boulder problem I climbed at Gardoms today - it's a great sit-start problem on the edge that seems to be in exactly the same place as Little Arete, a VS 4c on P219 of the BMC Froggatt to Black Rocks guide (between the Och Aye Wall area and Moyer's Buttress). The guide says "climb the little gem arete by technical balancy moves up the inset grove". The mystery is that it seemed around V4/5 rather than VS 4c and wouldn't be much easier from standing. It also seemed to follow the arete itself rather than the grove. It appeared to have been climbed before (chalked and with a patioed landing) but there's no mention in the guide.

Was I just climbing really badly today or is there a separate problem there?!

[grimer]

not sure but the person who calls himself ropeboy wrote the script

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=265

[Moff]

Little Arete sits behind an oak. Its a lovely VS, maybe 5a, its about as close to V4/5 as I am, you must have been somewhere else or messed it up really badly.

[Bonjoy]

This is a problem I cleaned up and climbed on Sunday. I thought 6c/6c+ so pretty much the same as you at V4/5. I recorded it here http://peakbouldering.info/problems/3418 and called it Bad/Angry Fox (some long time UKBers may remember this remarkable creature).
I think Little Arete is either the arete on the next bit of rock to the right or (less likely) the shallow groove 1m right of B/AF. Pretty sure mine was the FA of this as I had to remove some clumps of grass from the topout and move a couple of loose boulders to make space for the sitter. Nice prob and helps to bulk out the circuit potential around Pogle’s Wood.
I also did two other things nearby. Green Speed http://peakbouldering.info/boulders/404/problems/3417 which is just right of Green Crack (hence the name). This does some basic campusing up wide spaced rails then has an intriguing balancey rockover to get stood on the ledge. Also 6c+ ish. The other one is a bit further left at the entrance to a wide complex gully, Bitter Fun 6b http://peakbouldering.info/boulders/404/problems/3416 . This one climbs an undercut arete.

[Offwidth]

Little Arete is real obvious: its a 6m arete just behind a pruned split oak on the left side of the gully, left of Moyers Buttress.
At the top of the arete the route steps left and climbs a short distance further. Nice solo.

[BAndy]

Cheers for that Bonjoy, I was hoping I wasn't going mad/losing my understanding of grades/losing what little strength Pinches Wall^TM has blessed me with.

It's a very nice problem. Pretty surprised it didn't appear to have been done before. I guess the Peak is the gift that just keeps on giving.

P.S. I'd agree with around 6c for the grade, forgot that those V grade things aren't well-liked round these parts.

[dave]

This is a problem I cleaned up and climbed on Sunday. I thought 6c/6c+ so pretty much the same as you at V4/5. I recorded it here http://peakbouldering.info/problems/3418 and called it Bad/Angry Fox (some long time UKBers may remember this remarkable creature).
I think Little Arete is either the arete on the next bit of rock to the right or (less likely) the shallow groove 1m right of B/AF. Pretty sure mine was the FA of this as I had to remove some clumps of grass from the topout and move a couple of loose boulders to make space for the sitter. Nice prob and helps to bulk out the circuit potential around Pogle’s Wood.

Did this today, really good problem!

Also, directly in the pit underneath the spanish fly roof theres a good sitstart problem on top drawer rock with a nice sidepull and a great sloper in a break. Felt like a 6, anyone know what it is

[Bonjoy]

This reminds me earlier in the year we did a great highball 7a+ arete between Greenspeed and Bad/Angry. Ned did it first, can't remember the name. Landing needs about three pad. Really good addition to the circuit!

[dave]

Also, directly in the pit underneath the spanish fly roof theres a good sitstart problem on top drawer rock with a nice sidepull and a great sloper in a break. Felt like a 6, anyone know what it is

OK having read the BMC guide this is a 6c, but seems to have been overlooked in the vert guide and pb.info. Shame cos its a lowgrade banger on good rock - possibly permadry too cos of the big roof above.

[sidewinder]

possibly permadry too cos of the big roof above.

Has been dry everytime I have looked at it, including when everything else (other than perfect day start) was wet, agree on the quality one of my favourite problems in the 6's, climbs so well. Nice to have a couple of mats/spot for the landing pit though.