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New hard line at ravenstones? (Read 14789 times)

Grubes

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New hard line at ravenstones?
March 21, 2011, 09:43:04 pm
I heard a rumour through farcebook that adam long and pete whittaker doing a hard new line at ravnestones? Is this true or just a rumour.

I know there is meant to be a few hard routes that could go up there would be awesome if one has gone.

andy popp

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#1 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 21, 2011, 09:51:06 pm
Interesting! I heard there were plans to point Pete in that direction.

grimer

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#2 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 21, 2011, 10:35:54 pm
the highball arete on the slope below praps?

Grubes

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#3 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 07:03:19 am
The way it was described to me was green slopers, pebbles and ground fall potential. I imagine it is one of mr kocsis' lines he is trying to get in the new guide.

I am sure jonny brown could give us a definative answer.

andy popp

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#4 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 07:27:49 am
Martin told me he wanted to show Pete three line: the roof right of No Time to Pose, the wall L of Drainpipe (and thus just right of Black Mountain Collage?) and the arete below. That description sounds perhaps like the Drainpipe one? All very cloak and dagger.

Johnny Brown

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#5 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 08:22:30 am
I've never been to Ravenstones. If P Widdy has been up, it was with someone else.

Jim

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#6 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 08:23:35 am
I heard you were toproping with ice axes & crampons on!

Grubes

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#7 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 08:42:28 am
Thanks adam, I will take it that it was bull shit then.  :sorry:

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#8 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 08:59:38 am
I've never been to Ravenstones. If P Widdy has been up, it was with someone else.

Hmmm, I recon that narrows it down to one  of 2 people.


Grubes

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#9 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 12:42:32 pm
Ok I went back to the guy who told me about it (Chris Tan). This is what he said.
Quote
Pete whittaker and an adam. He was at the bottom wrapped up belaying up so I didn't get a good look at him. So I just assumed it was adam long. Mike hutton was the photographer.

I was Just happened to be leading a walking party round there and bumped into them

Okay looks like Pete whittaker has put up a new line at Ravenstones.  :great: 
Sorry Johnny Brown for saying you were there.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2011, 12:51:37 pm by Grubes »

andy popp

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#10 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 12:47:22 pm
I've never been to Ravenstones.

Shame on you!

Be good to see the details of what Pete's done. Great crag.

Tommy

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#11 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 03:43:27 pm
He's done the wall right of BMC. Seen some photos and it looks great! Both routes remind me of why those Moorland crags terrify me...  ;D

Grubes

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#12 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 04:10:49 pm
I know of an old aid line that needs freeing if you want to get on t'moors. No cracks but a v large roof.

Tom de Gay

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#13 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 05:50:59 pm
I can suggest a couple of knarrly projects...

Tommy

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#14 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 06:19:38 pm
Suggest away - I'm keen!

I've just one last project I'm working on at the moment and then I'm on for more stuff. And if Varian or Ryan highball my latest thing, I'll bloody kill them  ;D Especially if they give it V4.

Tom - is that a hint that they're at Tintwhistle, or however you spell it?

Grubes

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#15 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 06:37:50 pm
the rostrum at shooters needs freeing. Martin wants it free in the new guide.

Kevin thaw cleaned it last year and checked the bolts but the weather turned so he did not get a good go at it.

The view from below

Shooter's Nab 002 by Grubes, on Flickr

side on view (I am not just posting this so you can laugh at the size of my arse :-[)

Shooter's Nab 072 by Grubes, on Flickr

There is a route that climbs the front wall to the roof and traverses round left but the old aid line direct through the roof is not yet free.

Also while you are there do ricochet wall fantastic route (will barely be a warm up for you like) Soft touch E1 apparently but spat me off last year then rain stopped play.

Access agreement for shooters is the rostrum is open full time and you can park in the gun club any day but sunday. full access to the crag on a friday and specific days year round check RAD as it is sensitive. Also leave a note in your car saying you are climbing for the gun club owner.

Tom de Gay

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#16 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 06:51:00 pm
Tom - is that a hint that they're at Tintwhistle, or however you spell it?
There's certainly potential for a gritstone super route there. Bring a long rope. Some tasty highball slabs have a bit of a next generation look about them too.

robertostallioni

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#17 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 06:56:11 pm
My house is on that.  :)


Fiend

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#18 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 07:24:40 pm
Surely the lip (R > centre) of the Rostrum is a goer? It always looked like it had holds.

Grubes

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#19 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 07:30:39 pm
What kevin thaw said to me was.
theres is a massive jug in the roof but to place any gear you would have to place it hanging on one arm no other point of contact then need to match a heel to hand a large span to pinch the slopey cornor on the right hand side of the lip of roof. then another big reach to the ledge of the sweatyman traverse.
if you mess it up and no gear it will be a nasty swing on to the slab assuming the old bolts stay where they are.

edit - hear is a close up of the roof contrast and brightness played with to show the holds better

rostrum rev 1 by Grubes, on Flickr
« Last Edit: March 22, 2011, 07:40:23 pm by Grubes »

andy popp

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#20 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 07:45:13 pm
He's done the wall right of BMC. Seen some photos and it looks great! Both routes remind me of why those Moorland crags terrify me...  ;D

Cool, would like to see the photos, I don't remember the gap between Drainpipe and BMC being very big but then again my memory is shocking. Over the Moors on the left side of the slab is really great and unusual; a blank grit slab with a perfect nut slot hidden in the middle of it.

cheque

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#21 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 07:57:00 pm
...hanging on one arm no other point of contact then need to match a heel to hand...

Sounds right up Pete W's street.

grimer

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#22 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 08:32:35 pm
P Widdy (I like that - can I use it?) flashed Black Mountain Collage too

andy popp

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#23 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 09:23:33 pm
Another fine effort.

groundmagnet

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#24 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 10:22:29 pm
Cool, would like to see the photos, I don't remember the gap between Drainpipe and BMC being very big but then again my memory is shocking. Over the Moors on the left side of the slab is really great and unusual; a blank grit slab with a perfect nut slot hidden in the middle of it.

I remember looking at the cleaned line just left of Drainpipe (prior to this ascent) and thinking if you tried really hard you might just squeaze something in.

Well done on the ascent, that wall looks pretty thin!

Tommy

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#25 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 22, 2011, 10:37:04 pm
Cool, thanks for that Grubes!

Paul B

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slackline

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#27 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 23, 2011, 07:36:34 am
I've just one last project I'm working on at the moment and then I'm on for more stuff.

Presumably not Sketch City @ Curbar you appear to have just done...


SA Chris

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#28 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 23, 2011, 08:47:05 am
My house is on that. 

On what, the ledge?

robertostallioni

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#29 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 23, 2011, 02:31:25 pm
Huddersfields own Rivendell. Slaithwaite. Land of the free.

Grubes

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#30 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 23, 2011, 09:44:03 pm
Huddersfields own Rivendell. Slaithwaite. Land of the free.
Slawit nice.
I could not live there too close to the riverhead would be skinter than I already am

Tommy

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#31 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 23, 2011, 11:07:20 pm

Presumably not Sketch City @ Curbar you appear to have just done...


Nah, that was just a quick filler in. Nothing special really. The other line I'd like to do is a bit trickier for my weak little sausage fingers. Shame it's so bloomin' hot at the moment!

Bonjoy

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#32 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 24, 2011, 09:22:10 am
I've just one last project I'm working on at the moment and then I'm on for more stuff.

Presumably not Sketch City @ Curbar you appear to have just done...


Is that a direct finish to Old Codger? Saw chalk on it the other day. Didn't realise it was new as I wasn't sure where OC went.

Tommy

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#33 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 25, 2011, 05:27:00 pm
Yeah that's the one Jon.

Have you been back to try that E6+ arete over Cratcliffe way? (I hope that's obscure enough not to give away your lines). I abbed down it the other day and it looked like a proper (as in flippin' desperate) boulder proble start!

Shame it's not a sustained route - would be quality otherwise.

Bonjoy

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#34 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 26, 2011, 04:35:21 pm
If it's the one I think you mean I've also abbed it and left for another day. The upper bit would make a half decent E5/6 but for the hideously flaggy topout. Bottom arete seemed like it would be very hard to climb direct and side holds tend to drag you off right towards the crack. There's better fish out there.

Tom de Gay

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#35 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 27, 2011, 12:04:32 am



This is the Knarr (courtesy of Wikitopo.com). The main event here is the upper portion of the big wall on the left, which looks a bit like a scaled up Knockin on Heaven's Door; the difficulty is scaled up too - it's probably possible, but a notch or two harder than anything else I've tried (even Nik's Wall...). The highball slabs are on the lower right and look very very hard, though very compelling. The thing that guy in the purple trousers takes a whipper on is further left, out of shot. I guess you could warm up on that.

Grubes

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#36 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 27, 2011, 07:33:03 am
A wet day last year I went up to belay tintwhistle knarr franco on o'gradys. It was soaked so he just shunted it then dropped a rope down the head wall on the left and abbed it.
Desperate was his description.

Also a very large block has also fallen off the lower section

Grubes

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#37 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 30, 2011, 08:01:36 am
back to the original post.

Martin replied to me from an e-mail last week. (no mention of when the guidebook is due though)

pete did a new line to the left of the drainpipe at about E8 6c.

Anyone know what its called?
Good effort Pete.

Jim

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#38 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 30, 2011, 04:29:09 pm
more importantly is there any pictures/video/list of witnesses etc...
seriously tho would like to see a picture of said route

Grubes

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#39 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 31, 2011, 07:02:28 am
Mike hutton was up there taking photos apparently.
Tommy said earlier he had seen them. I am guessing Mike is probably saving them to sell to the mags. I checked his UKC but none are posted there.

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#40 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
March 31, 2011, 07:04:19 pm
I can't remember the name that Pete gave to the route, but I think it was about E8 6c and the photos looked top notch - probably see them in Climb next month??

Sorry I can't be of much more help.

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#41 Re: New hard line at ravenstones?
September 07, 2011, 08:22:51 pm
sounds like pete has done another new route up there, just right of no time to pose (i should have never mentioned my old project to martin)...good effort pete

 

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