[Bubba]

:D  You can tell they're really with you on that problem, spurring you on, not giving off "fall off you fucker" vibes  :wink:

[dave]

i recon if jez was smiling with pride anymore fiercley his face would split open. :wink:

[mark]

Maybe they were just so confident in my abilities that they knew I wouldn't fall off?!

Another Aprement classic, Surplomb de l'Avocat, 5+.

[Doylo]

Alta, Istasis. Check out the conditions, fuck me it was mint :!:  :!:

[Doylo]

My best Dave Graham impression on Medaillon 95.2.

[Doylo]

Young Danny C on Balance

[Doylo]

It's 6a+, and don't you forget it, as you fall off this repeatedly, losing more and more skin. It's a total headbreaker. The first time I was at Isatis, I was climbing with Monsieurs Le Menestrel and Denys, and feeling pretty pleased as I'd flashed Alta, and Vinaigre, and a couple of other hard problems. About 2 in the afternoon I got shown Buerre Marga, and all the beta in the whole world. I didn't top out till after dark. (please excuse the bragging and shameless name-dropping) :roll:

Stu, i only know one man who's flashed this problem and thats Miles Gibson. I reckon it took me about 25 goes over 2 trips. Still would only be 6a in Wales though

[Adam Lincoln]

Chris, you done Alta then? Is it flashable, ive heard it isnt bad?

[Ru]

I got shown Buerre Marga, and all the beta in the whole world. I didn't top out till after dark. (please excuse the bragging and shameless name-dropping)

Stu, i only know one man who's flashed this problem and thats Miles Gibson. I reckon it took me about 25 goes over 2 trips. Still would only be 6a in Wales though

Airlie flashed it too, apparantly. I too thought that you would need to use the cutting edge of technical climbing wizardry to reduce this to 6a+, until Neil Pearson showed me the method of joy. I have now vowed to do it on every trip to Isatis....


.... which is next weekend !  :D  :D  :D

[AndyR]

....until Neil Pearson showed me the method of joy. Totally piss.

Did it involve the cunning deployment of SCIENCE??

[Doylo]

Chris, you done Alta then? Is it flashable, ive heard it isnt bad?

No didn't do it, didn't get to try it this year (or anything else for that matter!). Is it flashable? aye, if your strong and good most things are.

[Adam Lincoln]

Chris, you done Alta then? Is it flashable, ive heard it isnt bad?

No didn't do it, didn't get to try it this year (or anything else for that matter!). Is it flashable? aye, if your strong and good most things are.

Hmm will have a bash next week...

[Stu Littlefair]

Chris, you done Alta then? Is it flashable, ive heard it isnt bad?

No didn't do it, didn't get to try it this year (or anything else for that matter!). Is it flashable? aye, if your strong and good most things are.

Hmm will have a bash next week...

Adam, you modest chap!  :wink:

[Adam Lincoln]

Chris, you done Alta then? Is it flashable, ive heard it isnt bad?

No didn't do it, didn't get to try it this year (or anything else for that matter!). Is it flashable? aye, if your strong and good most things are.

Hmm will have a bash next week...

Adam, you modest chap!  :wink:

Meant have a go, not have a go at flashing it! 1)Iam not strong and 2)Iam not good!  :roll:

[Doylo]

Meant have a go, not have a go at flashing it! 1)Iam not strong and 2)Iam not good!

Yeah i can back you up on that Adam (joke)

You should try Noir Desir 7c at Rempert if your feeling burly.

[Carnage]

Got any handy hints for Noir Desir?

Outta my league but on a mates ticklist.

Cheers

[dave]

noir desire is on ym list too - looks bo.

lebreton on Tour De Blocs does it with right heel where the toe is on the above photo.

[Doylo]

Yeah its pretty obvious, as long as your right biceps like a tennis ball you should be quids in!

[Bubba]

c.j.d sent this pic in of him on (probably) the first ascent of Jacadi Left Hand at Canche aux Merciers - does anyone have any info on this line? c.j.d was told by a reliable source that it was a project but is trying to find out any further info...

[dave]

thats a crazy-ass shot :shock:

[a dense loner]

i was under the impression that jacardi left hand,wot chris is on, is in fact jacardi, n wot chris thought was jacardi (well wot was in the mag? report ie.the right hand line)is a dyno of fred roulings. both goin at 8a.

[dave]

int the RH one la puce?

[c.j.d.]

hey dense - I've worked out what you mean now. Le puce is a seperate problem on the far right of the cave - match break and dyno for lip - big.  Jacadi is on the left.  Pull on with your left hand in a crimp/backhand, right on the break and rock /dyno rightwards to the lip (8a).  The variation is to get the crimp with your right hand and throw left with your left hand. Youonly end up another 4/4 foot to your left anyway, but according to local youth squad, this was new.  T'wood be nice to no as it is pretty mental!

[ian h]

dunno how long ago you was on jackadi but when i was there around a year ago there was quite a big bit of the hold broken off.

not sure what variation it affects though

i always understood la puce was at the right hand end (right of the crack)

[a dense loner]

chris, 3 8a dyno's in a row. sounds like heaven. cud only be beaten by an overlooked inconsequential boulder in cresciano.  
nice one, sounds like it was a new hard prob. don't get many of them to the pound in font. cudn't understand wot u'd dun when i was there but all makes sense now!