[ian h]

does cuisinere not have reputation for being soft touch?

i am sure i read that in my mates english pink guide, but cannot check as i only own the french version

[Carnage]

I wouldn't say the Joker was a soft touch!!!!

Cortomaltese, Bizarre Bizarre, Le Jet Du Toit Gauche , Rhume Folle,  Beetlejuice (Hueco thing next to Excaliber (god knows why its given 7a+)) and Clin D'Oeil are the softest imho.

i think there is some truth in this comment.  but a couple of the problems are subject to rules for the 7a tick.

Clin D'Oeil must be climbed on the left side of the arete for 7a.  This basically means getting the good slopey pocket with the left, right on the low crimper and dynoing for the top.  Of course, this is an eliminate becasue there are some good gratons up and right of the arete and a killer toe hook as well - but its only 6b with these 'extra' holds.

as for Beetlejuice, again there are rules.  first, you gotta start low and left then follow the good holds right to a couple of small slopey pockets, then without using any of the bloc to the right for your feet (ie. anything past the fissure that marks a change in angle) you have to follow the pinches and pockets to top out on the right prow.  seemed pretty solid at 7a+ for me this way, but a lot easier with a higher start and all feet on.

Aaaaaahhh. Did Clin D'Oeil properly (still think its a softee, esp if you're tall) but think I *might* have cheated on Bettlejuice. I can't remember so I'll have to do it again!!

[dave]

beatlejuice is certainly hard work at 7a+. lets just say if its the end of your 5th day on you can find yourself repeatedly falling off the end cos you are busted.

[a dense loner]

we have had 7 pages, n more at other times, discussin font 7a's. how sum of us r sayin they're piss n others quite hard. let's keep the same logic but tweak the grade a little. lets say font 8c. it's not rocket science chaps.   :D

[tommytwotone]

anyone know if Medaille en Choc has changed since being chipped? I spoke to a geezer out there a couple of years back (just after it was done) and he reckoned it made it a couple of grades harder...

definately agree on the Isatis dyno ting...mate of mine did it doudle last year but then again he should have done, he's 6 foot 7 or something  :roll:

[Adam Lincoln]

anyone know if Medaille en Choc has changed since being chipped? I spoke to a geezer out there a couple of years back (just after it was done) and he reckoned it made it a couple of grades harder...

definately agree on the Isatis dyno ting...mate of mine did it doudle last year but then again he should have done, he's 6 foot 7 or something  :roll:

Medaille is proabably 7a+ now, acording to the locals. A fairly good foothold was hacked of by that frickin pysco

[Carnage]

Steve Gough mentioned on a Cocktalk thread that there was a rumour that one of the slopes on Cortomaltese had been 'improved'. Anyone been on it very recently?

[Adam Lincoln]

Steve Gough mentioned on a Cocktalk thread that there was a rumour that one of the slopes on Cortomaltese had been 'improved'. Anyone been on it very recently?

Ill have a look next week. Probably overzelous brushing by punters!  :roll:

[jonP]

Medaille is proabably 7a+ now, acording to the locals. A fairly good foothold was hacked of by that frickin pysco

I did it last October.  Yorkshire V6!  A truly superb problem.

[cofe]

yorkshire V6 would make it about font 3+ then :wink:

it is a truly ace problem - no copping out and going for the arete. just raw air jordan style straight to the boss.