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[Yorkshire][West Chevin][Fluid Dynamics 8a(ish)] (Read 14709 times)

rootask

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That's a Matt Wilcox 7b, really good climbing. unfortunately/fortunately it doesn't top out as its green as anything

lemony

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Cool, will have to have a flail on that some time. Cheers.

andy_e

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That was cleaned up by Matt Willcox about two or three years ago and goes at about 7a+/7b. Fantastic problem though!

Oops, went on to two pages and I didn't realise! What Ru said.

Fiend

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Fatboy FH did a 7a??  :o :P :)

Sypeland

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Fatboy FH did a 7a??  :o :P :)

Not the first either, cheeky fecker! :tease:




andy_e

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If I remember rightly, he Sparkled a Little once.

Sypeland

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And celebrated with Whisky Galore. :icon_beerchug:

TomP

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When i first did ths problem last week, I did it from standing. A very worthwhile and obvious problem.

However, it is the lower start that is the true line and more difficult challenge. Yesterday, I went for a lamping session to give it a go (not really expecting much as I couldn't even touch the stand up at the start of the session). To my surprise I pulled the low start out of the bag on the last go of the evening, splitting 2 tips on that ascent.

Low start beta: Start on two obvious low undercuts/sidepulls and throw a heel out right to a ledge. Gain the poor crimpy rail and try to take a very difficult swing. Some nifty foot work to get the toe hook round the corner brings you to the stand up problem.

I don't want to big it up too much...but...I'd dare to say it's as good a line a Zoo York and certainly at least a level harder. I reckon 8a+ is fair but regardless of grade, this is one of the best problems I've climbed in Yorkshire.

TomP

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Pic of the low start FA during a lamping session:


El Mocho

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Heard from a wobbly yorkshire source that this is indeed a very good looking problem, congrats Tom.

TomP

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Cheers Ben. I bet your wobbly contact had known about it for years - I know a few folk certainly did.
Fancy a trip to it? Maybe bring some tape this time - remeber what happened to you tip at Hunter's?

 

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