[Yorkshire][West Chevin][Fluid Dynamics 8a(ish)] (Read 14710 times)

TomP · March 14, 2011, 12:17:51 pm

At West Chevin, above Caley, I climbed an awesome arête project. It had seen a bit of attention in the past.
You can find it if you get to Brownian Motion then head down the hill for about 200metres. The arête is the first thing you see there and very striking.
I’d been meaning to try this for a while so I worked the sequence last week during a lamping session then went out on Saturday to try it properly. I got a terrible flapper from not holding a crimp properly and pinging off it. I left it until the next day and did it first go - I didn’t really have a choice as my finger was in tatters.

The climbing involves using thin crimps, a pinch and a terrible toe hook. The crux is latching the nose of the arete. It’s a very awkward move, latching it as a guppy with one hand with everything else cuts loose. Then it’s a matter of very quickly grapping a poor sloper with your left hand.

Grade is around the 8a mark but could be a touch higher. Named: “Fluid Dynamics”

rootask · March 14, 2011, 01:33:58 pm

Top effort mate its an unbelieveable line

TomP · March 14, 2011, 02:00:45 pm

Cheers mate.

Here's another pic:

Jaspersharpe · March 14, 2011, 02:26:10 pm

Nice one Tom, that looks amazing.

TomP · March 14, 2011, 02:56:48 pm

Thanks Jasper. Yeah, it's quite a find, especially in such a frequently climbed area. Amazing to think there is still stuff out there like this

Sypeland · March 14, 2011, 02:58:20 pm

Another excellent line at the mighty Bas West Chevin. Well done Tom.

lemony · March 14, 2011, 02:59:15 pm

That's your project for tomorrow lunchtime then fran?

TomP · March 14, 2011, 03:04:50 pm

Quote from: Sypeland on March 14, 2011, 02:58:20 pm

Bas West Chevin.

Haha, yeah! La forest est tres belle!

SA Chris · March 14, 2011, 03:13:06 pm

Nice franglais effort too. Looks excellent.

andy_e · March 14, 2011, 03:26:13 pm

The most font-esque venue in Yorkshire? The slab further along the edge from this is nails and proper font-style! Post up some flapper photos Tom.

Jaspersharpe · March 14, 2011, 03:41:51 pm

Quote from: TomP on March 14, 2011, 03:04:50 pm

Haha, yeah! La forest est tres belle!

Quote from: SA Chris on March 14, 2011, 03:13:06 pm

Nice franglais effort too. Looks excellent.

The creme de la menthe Rodders...

TomP · March 14, 2011, 04:06:49 pm

Mange tout mon sherry

Quote from: andi_e on March 14, 2011, 03:26:13 pm

Post up some flapper photos Tom.

Didn't get a shot of the flapper I'm afraid but got the footage of the time I pinged off and my shock as I looked at my hand

Sypeland · March 14, 2011, 04:50:26 pm

Quote from: andi_e on March 14, 2011, 03:26:13 pm

The most font-esque venue in Yorkshire? The slab further along the edge from this is nails and proper font-style! Post up some flapper photos Tom.

Andy, Where is the slab on this map?

http://www.theleedswall.co.uk/ymc/images/wchevin/wchevin.pdf

Sypeland · March 14, 2011, 04:57:02 pm

Luch time today on Eat The Light.

lemony · March 14, 2011, 04:58:04 pm

You dirty gobbing bastard...

andy_e · March 14, 2011, 05:48:38 pm

It's not on that map but it's the obvious wall perpendicular to, and about 10m further on than the wall containing problems 28-32.

lemony · March 14, 2011, 06:19:25 pm

Yup, we figured that was the one you meant. It is really good and both deceptively hard and quite committing. I'm actually sat under it having gone back to do it properly as I write this.

andy_e · March 14, 2011, 06:25:11 pm

I took half an hour to work out a sequence and gain some testicles for the top. It was flashed by everybody else though. Note to self - improve footwork.

lemony · March 14, 2011, 07:27:24 pm

I got to the top reasonably quickly last year and then didn't top out because it had an inch of mud on it (and then couldn't pluck up the guts for the top when we went back a few days later). It's a great fun little problem, as much about arm contortions as footwork. Maybe 6a+ at a guess.

andy_e · March 14, 2011, 07:40:14 pm

I initially thought about 7a but in retrospect it's probably 6b/+.

SA Chris · March 15, 2011, 08:59:26 am

Quote from: lemony on March 14, 2011, 04:58:04 pm

You dirty gobbing bastard...

Even worse is wiping it on his sleeve. And then topping it all by using a knee.

Sypeland · March 15, 2011, 10:36:28 am

Quote from: SA Chris on March 15, 2011, 08:59:26 am

Quote from: lemony on March 14, 2011, 04:58:04 pm
You dirty gobbing bastard...

Even worse is wiping it on his sleeve. And then topping it all by using a knee.

Style and Class

lemony · March 15, 2011, 10:39:39 am

Quote from: SA Chris on March 15, 2011, 08:59:26 am

Even worse is wiping it on his sleeve. And then topping it all by using a knee.

The video misses the bit where he smears blood all over his face and chest as well. Wandered round like that for the rest of the day.

Sypeland · March 15, 2011, 10:50:41 am

Quote from: lemony on March 15, 2011, 10:39:39 am

Quote from: SA Chris on March 15, 2011, 08:59:26 am

Even worse is wiping it on his sleeve. And then topping it all by using a knee.

The video misses the bit where he smears blood all over his face and chest as well. Wandered round like that for the rest of the day.

two words - Anal Probe.

lemony · March 15, 2011, 02:43:32 pm

Ignoring Francine's vulgarity,
I see the undercut double arete to the left of this has been chalked up from a sitter, did you guys tick that as well? What does that go at?

rootask · March 15, 2011, 02:49:40 pm

That's a Matt Wilcox 7b, really good climbing. unfortunately/fortunately it doesn't top out as its green as anything

lemony · March 15, 2011, 03:11:34 pm

Cool, will have to have a flail on that some time. Cheers.

andy_e · March 15, 2011, 04:15:28 pm

That was cleaned up by Matt Willcox about two or three years ago and goes at about 7a+/7b. Fantastic problem though!

Oops, went on to two pages and I didn't realise! What Ru said.

Fiend · March 15, 2011, 05:07:23 pm

Fatboy FH did a 7a??

Sypeland · March 16, 2011, 11:56:21 am

Quote from: Fiend on March 15, 2011, 05:07:23 pm

Fatboy FH did a 7a??

Not the first either, cheeky fecker!

andy_e · March 16, 2011, 12:25:04 pm

If I remember rightly, he Sparkled a Little once.

Sypeland · March 16, 2011, 12:43:41 pm

And celebrated with Whisky Galore.

TomP · March 23, 2011, 06:00:46 pm

When i first did ths problem last week, I did it from standing. A very worthwhile and obvious problem.

However, it is the lower start that is the true line and more difficult challenge. Yesterday, I went for a lamping session to give it a go (not really expecting much as I couldn't even touch the stand up at the start of the session). To my surprise I pulled the low start out of the bag on the last go of the evening, splitting 2 tips on that ascent.

Low start beta: Start on two obvious low undercuts/sidepulls and throw a heel out right to a ledge. Gain the poor crimpy rail and try to take a very difficult swing. Some nifty foot work to get the toe hook round the corner brings you to the stand up problem.

I don't want to big it up too much...but...I'd dare to say it's as good a line a Zoo York and certainly at least a level harder. I reckon 8a+ is fair but regardless of grade, this is one of the best problems I've climbed in Yorkshire.

TomP · March 25, 2011, 01:13:08 pm

Pic of the low start FA during a lamping session:

El Mocho · March 26, 2011, 07:04:44 pm

Heard from a wobbly yorkshire source that this is indeed a very good looking problem, congrats Tom.

TomP · March 28, 2011, 11:00:34 am

Cheers Ben. I bet your wobbly contact had known about it for years - I know a few folk certainly did.
Fancy a trip to it? Maybe bring some tape this time - remeber what happened to you tip at Hunter's?