[ksjs]

Possibly heading to Malham end of next week but if not, then some time this year for sure. This would be my first trip to Malham so hopefully some good onsight options await...

Now I think I'm asking the impossible (we are talking UK limestone after all) but I'd like some ideas for 7b and 7b+ routes that lend themselves to onsighting Preferably nothing too cruxy so the more stamina based the better. Also, reasonable clips and clean falls if possible.

The plan is to head to Malham but I'd like to have suggestions for Kilnsey too.

Assuming no downpours between now and end of next week what sort of state should Malham be in?

Cheers

[robertostallioni]

 At Malham :-Space race, seventh aardvark, wasted youth.

[Serpico]

At Malham :-Space race, seventh aardvark, wasted youth.

7th Aardvark and Wasted Youth? Where's the sandbag smiley? Both are cruxalicious, especially WY since it lost a hold.
Try Obsession with a bit of beta for 7b+ and Mule Variation at 7b.

[robertostallioni]

Seventh Aardvark seemed straightforward 
Which hold has some hoofer removed  from WY?

[Serpico]

Seventh Aardvark seemed straightforward 
Which hold has some hoofer removed  from WY?

7th Aardvark is a bit short maybe to meet the OP's criteria for an endurance route.
There used to be a good pinch for the right hand on WY about halfway up, that you could rest on before you step left into the tufas, it went a couple of years back. Top of the grade now.

[IanP]

This would be my first trip to Malham so hopefully some good onsight options await...

Wouldn't want to patronise anyone but generally Malham isn't considered to be the easiest place for onsighting especially on you first visit (unless your name is Adam, though I guess nothing harder than 8b counts as a failure in his case).  I'd certainly keep away from the short routes near your limit, things like Seven Ardvark are fairly fierce and require typically Malhamesq use of side pulls, undercuts and polished footholds. 

The routes to the right of the catwalk are probably the best bet, Mule Variations is solid 7b imo but I guess fairly obvious, Appetite and Yosemite wall are excellant and definitely onsightable at 7a+.  Taking the Space is probably the most onsightable 7b (though some think 7a+) and is excellent, it does share the finish of Space Race which I guess is one of the more onsightable 7b+'s (too hard for me).   Routes upstairs like Obsession are fingery and sequency and not particularly easy to onsight - I wouldn't imagine Obsession gets many o/s from people who don't have a fair amount in reserve at that grade.

Anyway its one of the best 2 sports crags in the country, and the vast majority of people will be redpointing so just get yourself there and join the fun.

 

[yorkshireman]

even ive done seventh aardvark so it cant be that complicated
agree with obsession.
at kilnsey 50 for 5 and have a bash at comedy.forget frankie comes to kilnsey as its hard to read imho

[mrjonathanr]

at kilnsey ...forget frankie comes to kilnsey as its hard to read imho

I fell off at the belay so you might have a point, but I'd recommend giving it a blast as it's a quality route. WYSIWYG is fingery and flashable.

[Teaboy]

Flashable Malham and Kilnsey 7bs in ascending order of difficulty:
Smooth Torquer - Gets 7b in some places but isn't
Taking the Space - No harder than Yosemite Wall
Nerve Ending - If you get off the ground you should have done it
Conceptual - Not sure it about this, I thought it was but UKC logbooks disagree
WYSIWYG - Easier now you mis out the crux by slapping out right at mid height
Mule Variations - Burley
Seventh Ardvark - Easiest of the short Malham 7bs but still very sequency
Something Stupid - Hard but positive crimps and its easier to stand around on and work out than some others

Ones to avoid:
Sticky Wicket - Pumpy
Bongo Fury - Impossible
Wasted Youth - hard and not that good

[shark]

Ones to avoid:
Bongo Fury - Impossible
Wasted Youth - hard and not that good

You may have been trying to go direct on BF at the start which is the way the bolts suggest it goes. It has been done this way but the original way is further right. I made this mistake but TPM pointed out the error (after letting me flounder for a while). Also harder in the sun.

I thought Wasted Youth was surprisingly good - certainly far better than it looks from the ground.

[Bonjoy]

forget frankie comes to kilnsey as its hard to read imho

I disagree also. Frankie is the only 7b+ that I've onsighted at either of those crags

Edit: Think I might have also onsighted a couple of random newer things on the right, Slab Culture and something else.

For bouldering types I'd say Pantomime is an onsightable option. Truth Drug also seems to get onsighted more than most at the grade.

[Adam Lincoln]

forget frankie comes to kilnsey as its hard to read imho

I disagree also. Frankie is the only 7b+ that I've onsighted at either of those crags

I am with Bonjoy. Also if it was 7b i wouldn't complain too much.

[Paul B]

people finishing Frankie properly I assume?

I'm not suggest Comedy is 7b+ (unlike some others no doubt) but its style means its worth an onsight blast.

I used to think Sticky Wicket was fine but I went back on it last year and that altered my view somewhat.

[G_M]

Hardy Annual at Kilnsey should be a good on-sight bet - you can work out the start from the ground, then you get a shake out and can take it move by move up the groove. (How strict are your on-sight ethics? Hope this doesn't count as beta!)

[Steve R]

Kilnsey: Ground Effect's worth a go.  Powerful but easy to read/plan start into steadier but really good climbing up the groove.  Nerve Ending's straight forward if you've got a bit of power to get going - decent one star route really (prob 7a+).  I enjoyed doing Chris's Route into Last Grasp finish which I think gets 7b and is worth a star or two.  Can't remember an awful lot about it but did it first go so probably not bad for the grade.   

Malham; Taking the Space as mentioned is great and relatively easy (prob 7a+).  Fell off everything else 7b at malham.

[yorkshireman]

I found frankie quite complex hence my opinion that it's not a good flash at the grade.I included comedy because I viewed it as being straight foreword move wise of your strong enough

[Andy F]

In addition to those above, I'd add Toad of Beck Hall 7b+, Gravity 7b (Malham), Detox 7b+,  No More Jumping to Conclusions 7b+ (Kilnsey).  All are onsightable for the fit.

[Bonjoy]

people finishing Frankie properly I assume?

There’s only one way to finish it, at the top, like any other route.

[ksjs]

Cheers all for replies - some good sounding candidates in there. I'm fully expecting to flounder but after a winter's indoor bouldering I've been feeling strong outside during recent sessions (routes and bouldering) so maybe marginal room to hope that I could fluke a 7b. Might be worth compromising and trying for flashes rather than onsights. May even bore you all with some feedback if I make it there and get on any of these.

[IanP]

In addition to those above, I'd add Toad of Beck Hall 7b+, Gravity 7b (Malham), Detox 7b+,  No More Jumping to Conclusions 7b+ (Kilnsey).  All are onsightable for the fit.

Gravity was one of my very few (2!) true 7b onsights in the UK - unfortunately it's a bit rubbish.

[Bonjoy]

Personally I thought No More Jumping to Conclusions was desperate. One of the hardest 7b+s I've ever been on.

[north_country_boy]

Personally I thought No More Jumping to Conclusions was desperate. One of the hardest 7b+s I've ever been on.

Whole heartedly agree with this! Its 7c everyday of the week. Knarly crux up the groove. Much harder than comedy.

[Andy F]

Personally I thought No More Jumping to Conclusions was desperate. One of the hardest 7b+s I've ever been on.

Whole heartedly agree with this! Its 7c everyday of the week. Knarly crux up the groove. Much harder than comedy.

Uptown made it look a path onsight. I did it pretty quickly (3 goes, should have been 2) when unfit, and though 7b+ was fair.  It is hardish upto the top of the groove, but steady after that.

[IanP]

Whole heartedly agree with this! Its 7c everyday of the week. Knarly crux up the groove. Much harder than comedy.

Uptown made it look a path onsight. I did it pretty quickly (3 goes, should have been 2) when unfit, and though 7b+ was fair.  It is hardish upto the top of the groove, but steady after that.

You did make it look fairly straightforward, but did work out a much better sequence up the groove than the rubbish I was using which may point to it not been the easiest thing to onsight. 

The fact that strong people make things look easy doesn't really help in these sort of discussions 

[Paul B]

Witches Brew another good one maybe?

[nik at work]

Uptown made it look a path onsight.

To be fair that indicates pretty much nothing in my experience.

[TobyD]

Uptown made it look a path onsight.

To be fair that indicates pretty much nothing in my experience.

Ha! agreed; maybe its somewhere between 7a and 8a then? He certainly made short work of flashing zero option, and i don't think that really indicates anything either!