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grand opera - bowderstone (Read 2624 times)

The Sausage

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grand opera - bowderstone
May 14, 2007, 01:06:39 pm
how does the top of this go? from the good hold on the ramp, out to a good crimp for the left (in a slot). is it heel by right hand, rock to the pinch (with the right) and then again for poor sidepull thing? or can you cross under with right to good crimp (by the left) then up with the left?
incidently, is inaudible (stand up) 7b+?

Greg C

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#1 Re: grand opera - bowderstone
May 14, 2007, 04:38:56 pm
Quote
how does the top of this go? from the good hold on the ramp, out to a good crimp for the left (in a slot). is it heel by right hand, rock to the pinch (with the right) and then again for poor sidepull thing?
Yes. I then brace my left foot below the right heel go up with your left for a crimp, then again for the triangular (RH) hold (top). Have seen it done with a toe rather than a heel on the flatty.

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or can you cross under with right to good crimp (by the left) then up with the left?
This is what you do for Final Curtain as you move left but I wouldn't think it'd help on Grand.


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Incidentally, is inaudible (stand up) 7b+?
I think this is the current consensus.

cruisie

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#2 Re: grand opera - bowderstone
November 22, 2008, 03:20:24 pm
just a quick question. to get the triangle finishing hold is it better to keep your heel on and go with your right hand or is there a better way??? also on bloodsucker do you start with one hand on the rail and the other in the pocket then go straight up to hold x and finish up power pinch this way or is this completely wrong

Richie Crouch

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#3 Re: grand opera - bowderstone
March 04, 2011, 03:43:20 pm
To drag up an old one, I tried this the other day and was using the:

out left to good painful crimp, right heel under hand and lock up to the pinch then again to the heavily chalked mess in which I found a woeful low crimp. is there something decent if you snatch higher up?

I felt I needed to use the left foot somewhere to get my left hand up to a decent looking sidepull/crimp up and wide left but couldn't figure anything out. Do you just flag under and get said hold, then snatch RH up to the triangle or cross over to it with the left hand?

I re-read what Greg said a couple of times but still didn't get it. Would be nice to get up there again soon and finish it. The moves beforehand were superb!

 

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