[dave k]

Anyone like to give me the paint by numbers on this fine problem. Just from standing will do. I get stuck at the same point each time. Left foot on the obvious low foot hold, right hand on the obvious sloper, left about the same height on the arete.

[Bubba]

The way I did it was:

- Stand with left foot on obvious high foothold
- Jump up and gaston the arete with right hand (just above my head)
- Right toe hooks low flake down and right (used on the sitter I think) and keeps you in balance
- Rock over 'til you can reach small pocket with left fingers
- Slap right hand out rightwards onto slab
- Now you're stood in balance....

...and the top moves are easy.

But there's several different methods other than this, but it worked for me, and I'm crap.

[ian h]

http://climbvideo.wbp.zabrze.pl/znajdz.php?sorto=rozmiar&rozmiar=0&ile_razy=0&czas=0&typ=0&znaleziono=494&limituj_od=75

from the online boulder vids thread.

bubba: how come this is not on this site?

[Dolly]

Er.... what do you do to get the movie ?

[dave k]

Cheers for that. I never saw a small pocket for the left. It will be mine tomorrow. As will that direct start (jump passed the tricky move) to Autumn.

[Kim]

modern technology eh, beta on demand!  

(right click, save target as... for this one)

[dave]

if you can't find a pocket then theres a little crozzley nubbin thing.

[dave]

nice one kim - finally a video with you actually in it!

[Bubba]

http://climbvideo.wbp.zabrze.pl/znajdz.php?sorto=rozmiar&rozmiar=0&ile_razy=0&czas=0&typ=0&znaleziono=494&limituj_od=75

from the online boulder vids thread.

bubba: how come this is not on this site?

Hey! That's Fatdoc and me performing above beta  :D

It's not on the site coz I've never been arsed to convert it to .swf - must get round to it.....and get round to sending old zabrze.pl some abuse for nicking my video  :twisted:

[Bubba]

nice one kim - finally a video with you actually in it!

Kim's the first person I've seen do it the same way as me.

[dave]

pretty sure cofe did it that way anall. if i had got anywhere near it then i'd by trying that way too.

[dave k]

Cheers for the beta. That little pocket out left really helped. The last few holds were a bit sketchier than I expected (damp).

I also managed to sort out the finish on the direct start to Autumn, that you snapped me on b4 Blubba. V8ish but height dependant for the jump start. Although I am only 5'9. The "cotton cloth cleaning method" was really effective on sorting out the top out.