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Various bit [Peak][Stanage North & Turning Stone][6a+-7a+] (Read 3092 times)

Bonjoy

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Stanage North

Skimmington Ride 6b – The remarkably obvious, surprisingly unclimbed direct start to a route called Rimmington Place i.e. it's the steep RHS of the Old Salt arete. Nice steep pinchy layback highball arete. About E2 6a in old money.

New York New York SS 6c – Adds two good moves and makes a good prob even better.

Vagabond Shoes 6c+ - The wall just right of NYNY from sitting (on floor not block). Not as good as it looks and it doesn’t look like Crescent Arete.


Turning Stone Edge – Secret Dyno Buttress

Had several wet days on my hands so decided to clear the Rhodies from the left side of the buttress as I’d spotted various possibilities ages ago. Added six new things, which just about doubles the total number of probs on the whole crag! This bit of the crag faces almost north and as such needs a couple of days, or a strong wind to dry after heavy rain.

Jumpin’ on an Aphid 6a+ – The left arete of the slab on the left side of the buttress.

The Cherub’s Bit 6c+ - Pull on as for JoaA teeter right a bit and climb the centre of the nicely blank slab.



Velveteen Whisper 6b+ - As above but continue the teetering to the right arete and finish via this

Nice Pinch, Shame About the Ledge 7a – Right again, past the easy crack. Tricky pull on with undercuts, slap for break and gain the prowy left arete using a dream pinch. Finish up the arete without using the ledge on the left. Sadly eliminate, but the pinch is so nice I had to find some way to use it (a direct version up the wall would be harder and better)!

Riding the Stang 7a+ - From the break on NPSAtL make moves right and climb the wall above. Great moves if you’re not tall enough to just lank the top wall




Ha Hoo 6b – The arete on the block below the slab. A bit hemmed in by chopped down Rhodies at present!
« Last Edit: February 11, 2011, 03:22:20 pm by Bonjoy »

Jim

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Skimmington Ride

Johnny Brown

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Effort on the Rhodo clearance yoot! Hopefully will settle down soon enough. Anyone know who owns the crag? There was a rumour it was  Forestry Commission, in which case it might be up for sale soon (or possibly not given today's developments)...

Offwidth

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You evil rhodenedron killer!

(excellent work... does Andy L  know?? )

Bonjoy

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It's the FC according to the Froggatt guide, but no idea where that info is from. Mentioned this to Rueben the other day.
I'll probably go back and clean up some more things on there at some point and will tidy up the straggly stumps when I do. All looks a bit post apocalyptic at the moment but i dare say those stumps will be green and bushy again by July  :(

clintos

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i dare say those stumps will be green and bushy again by July  :(
drill the stumps and squirt some round up in. that would stop em.

Bonjoy

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On Thursday I added another one here. Perhaps more of a route than a boulder prob though the hard bit is bouldering height and the top bit comparatively easy. Bushballhog - 7a/E4 6b – Gain the flake on Ballnut Whip via the hanging groove on the right. Bouldered out above a large mound of springy Rhododendren cuttings, though once you move left to the flake you are definitely in solo terrain. It looks to have gear placements and could be led. If you look in the Froggatt guide the line of Bushballhog is where Ballnut Whip is erroneously shown as going on the topo photo(BW actally gains flake from a vague rib up and left).

 

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