[huwtj]

Have any shorties got some advice as to how they start Blockbuster?

Jump to the lower pinch and put foot on?

Jump to the lower pinch and then go again to the upper pinch (like in Stick It)?

Some sick hard method with no jumping involved?

I've pulled on from the lower pinch and side-pull off a load of stacked pads but it just felt like cheating so I'd like to do it off the floor (well a single pad anyway). Any suggestions would be great!

[Probes]

Pocket left, hop to pinch right, left foot on, upto crimp left, go and go again right, look around for approval and cock stroking. 7b+ like this, start any higher and your just kidding yourself.

[Johnny Brown]

Jump to the lower pinch and then go again to the upper pinch (like in Stick It)?

The dude in Stick It is 5'6" I think, though granted he's pretty strong. How tall are you?

Always my nemesis this problem, only done it once I think so I'll not offer advice myself...

[huwtj]

Pocket left, hop to pinch right, left foot on, upto crimp left, go and go again right, look around for approval and cock stroking.

Thanks, that has felt more likely to work than going again for the second pinch before I get my foot on.

The dude in Stick It is 5'6" I think, though granted he's pretty strong. How tall are you?

Yeah I figured he was pretty short which is why I hoped that beta would work for me. I'm 5'7". I'll have to go back and jump up and down some more - as soon as it dries out that is.

[Ru]

There's another sequence that's more powerful, but works if your fingers fit the pocket. Plus its doesn't require a jump start. Rob Barker told me about it and it works well:

Start right hand in the pocket, left on the flatty, left foot high. Sit on left foot and lock the two finger pocket to reach the sidepull crimp with your left hand. Then you can just go twice with your right hand - once up to the pinch, then again to the flake.

[huwtj]

My fingers fit in the pocket easily. That is an interesting sequence - does your left foot go on the normal foothold hold underneath the pocket or something further out left? It sounds like a powerful fingery bunched rockover so should suit me fine!

[The Aaronator]

Pocket left, hop to pinch right, left foot on, upto crimp left, go and go again right, look around for approval and cock stroking. 7b+ like this, start any higher and your just kidding yourself.

What is classed as vertically challenged? Anything under 6ft 2"...

[Robl]

nice will have to try that sequence.. I'm 5"6' JUST 

[Probes]

Pocket left, hop to pinch right, left foot on, upto crimp left, go and go again right, look around for approval and cock stroking. 7b+ like this, start any higher and your just kidding yourself.

What is classed as vertically challenged? Anything under 6ft 2"...

 

6'1" actually. Just showing the fair side of us lankys.

[Ru]

My fingers fit in the pocket easily. That is an interesting sequence - does your left foot go on the normal foothold hold underneath the pocket or something further out left? It sounds like a powerful fingery bunched rockover so should suit me fine!

I think it's the normal foothold - its quite bunched. If it's a different foothold it would be pretty obvious.

[Johnny Brown]

Rob Barker told me about it and it works well

Bear in mind these both climb crimpy 8c... might be better if you're the strong midget who can't jump though. I can do the jump fine I just can't do anyhting with the crimp.

[Bonjoy]

This won’t help on the start, but I think it’s by far the easiest way to do the top (might be useful for you JB). Get the top pinch with RH then flip it into a guppy (thumb pointing down), stick a foot out right then casually cross over to the flake with your left hand. Less bony than going to the flake off the crimp.

[turnipturned]

http://vimeo.com/m/#/19833391

Here you go!

Found this on my camera so made a little edit for you. I am 5 ft 8 dead but have t- Rex arms (-1inch ape) so consider me 5 foot 7!

Hope this helps

[huwtj]

Thanks! Can't ask for better beta than a specially edited video  That was pretty much how I thought I should be trying to do it. No excuses now... 

[turnipturned]

No sweat it a quality problem hopefully that helps! Just a little advice that the vid may not illustrate when jumping for the first pinch (may seem obvious) but stand directly below it and jump straight up then there is no swing

[huwtj]

I can confirm that the method in the video is definitely the way

Thanks for all the help!

[dave]

This won’t help on the start, but I think it’s by far the easiest way to do the top (might be useful for you JB). Get the top pinch with RH then flip it into a guppy (thumb pointing down), stick a foot out right then casually cross over to the flake with your left hand. Less bony than going to the flake off the crimp.

On a similar note, I seem to remember dutch and me doing this bit by having a flat sloper right of the top pinch with RH, then RF out right on that good foothold, sit on it and bring LH onto the top pinch (thumb down) then roll over the top with RH for the jug rail. It climbs quite nice like this.

[andy_e]

Grab the filth crimp with your left, guppy the top pinch with your right, foot up and slap the flake with your right. Shouldn't be too tricky to hold!