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Newbie advice (Read 4651 times)

ZeeW

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Newbie advice
March 01, 2011, 06:15:26 pm
Okay - just joined the forum with a view to seeking advice on starting bouldering.  Now I know 'jack' about bouldering and how to get started.  I've done some wall climbing a few years ago when the Leeds wall opened and had every intention to do more, but life got in the way.

I've now got a load of free time to get into something that will challenge me physically, wont break the bank and will get me out and about - so I thought about bouldering.

So what do I need to know... recommend me some beginners guides.... which are the best walls in the North West Manchester area that offers tuition/coaching?

Any advice welcome!

SA Chris

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#1 Re: Newbie advice
March 01, 2011, 06:25:56 pm
You don't need tuition or coaching when you start. Just get yourself a pair of good rockboots and a chalkbag and you are away. Great thing about bouldering is you can go a long way just learning by yourself and watching other people.

If you don't want to head outside, then there are loads of wlls to choose from, this directory should contain most in the country. http://www.ukclimbing.com/listings/?t=wall I've no experience of any in that are, but many folk on here will be able to help.

Once you have had a few wall sessions you can get out to any of the local boulders or crags in your area.

ZeeW

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#2 Re: Newbie advice
March 01, 2011, 06:28:00 pm
So just basically get out there and give it a go!

Thanks for the link.

SA Chris

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#3 Re: Newbie advice
March 01, 2011, 06:29:56 pm
All there is to it. Just apply a bit of common sense and don't fall headfirst into the ground too often.

ZeeW

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#4 Re: Newbie advice
March 01, 2011, 06:32:37 pm
And obviously maintain a sense of humor.

May be some early morning practice runs so I have no audience LOL

DaveyDave

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#5 Re: Newbie advice
March 01, 2011, 06:38:50 pm
don't fall headfirst into the ground too often.

So I should reassess my techniques?  ;D

SA Chris

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#6 Re: Newbie advice
March 01, 2011, 06:40:02 pm
Don't know, do you see more skin or scabs when you look in the mirror?

ZeeW

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#7 Re: Newbie advice
March 01, 2011, 06:59:25 pm
But seriously for a moment - how do I learn good technique and avoid learning bad habits, as I'm sure there must be right and wrong ways to climb?

erm, sam

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#8 Re: Newbie advice
March 01, 2011, 07:14:29 pm
That will come with time. If there is a climbing club near you could meet up on a night they go to the local wall (if indeed they do) and get advice and help from them.
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=13 Or just meet some people at about the same level and climb with them. All will become apparent.

You could pay for some coaching to help you get the basics quicker but you can also just climb. The initial improvements will be rapid and it might be some time before that slows down and you need to start wondering what to do next..


nodder

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#9 Re: Newbie advice
March 01, 2011, 07:37:28 pm
Find crag with map.
Preferable but not esential, buy a mat.
Again preferable but not essential buy a guide, its almost always worth buying the guide to almost anywhere is my theory, you get to tick them too.
start with the lowest number good idea to start above the flattest landing.
carry on trying stuff till you fall off carry on on that one till you get bored or run out of skin (then it becomes a project) 
The number attatched will indicate your grade there will be two the first that you can do nearly all the time the second is the one you can nearly do.  Try to make them bigger.  By the time you cant you will have decided if you like bouldering.   
Review.


Now while we have you,
Dont use big tick marks, or overbrush holds.  Dont use a chalk ball to mark out footholds.  Umm take away all your rubbish   

slackline

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#10 Re: Newbie advice
March 02, 2011, 07:18:50 am

Now while we have you,
Dont use big tick marks, or overbrush holds.  Dont use a chalk ball to mark out footholds.  Umm take away all your rubbish   

No chipping (creating artificial holds) or POF (tree resin used only in Font to improve friction).

ZeeW

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#11 Re: Newbie advice
March 02, 2011, 07:56:56 am
Thanks for the replies.

Having looked at the above links, I have quite a few walls within easey reach of where I live.  So I can drop in at either Bury, Rochdale or Manchester walls.  I'm still struggling a little to find 'local' boulders/crags and guides - but I'll keep looking.

Thanks for the advice on what not to do... always good to know the code of conduct - although I admit all the do nots listed never crossed my mind.

SA Chris

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#12 Re: Newbie advice
March 02, 2011, 09:00:04 am
Code of conduct here.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/gallery1.asp?galleryid=24

www.theuiaa.org/upload_area/files/1/Bouldering_code_BMC.pdf

On the UKC website there is a crag search facility too, for finding outdoor stuff.

Just get out there and have fun.

slackline

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#13 Re: Newbie advice
March 02, 2011, 09:01:10 am
I'm still struggling a little to find 'local' boulders/crags and guides - but I'll keep looking.

Not too clear on exactly where you are located and therefore what you'd consider 'local'?

You've mentioned you're interested in what walls are North West of Manchester, so going on that there is the UKB Wiki : Venues which has links for the Peak District (albeit east and south, but its got the most bouldering and is well worth going to) and Lancashire, as well as Yorkshire.  Links on each page to individual sites with more details and information.

Best bet though is to buy a guide to an area of interest as you get lots of information and pretty pictures to look at too.

Follow this thread for details on training technique (note the early response as to what technique is, if it feels really hard try something different, moving feet, hands, centre of gravity), and watch other people climbing, its that simple.

ZeeW

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#14 Re: Newbie advice
March 02, 2011, 06:15:39 pm
Cheers guys - lots of great info.

I'm in Bury and can travel within a 50 mile radius, but I'd rather stay local if I can.  I've a lot of time on my hands having just been made redundant so crags nearer to home are better, as are indoor walls.

Just need to get my ass into gear and go and buy some boots etc... hopefully in the next few days.

tomtom

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#15 Re: Newbie advice
March 02, 2011, 07:13:59 pm
Some other suggestions..

Bridestones Nr Todmorden, sometimes also referred to as the Kebs, is probably your nearest place - great spot.. but it has erosion problems so make sure your boots are clean (mud/sand on shoes acts like sandpaper) and it also needs a day or so to dry (the rock is a bit fragile so never go when its damp...).

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/bridestones.html

Wall wise, apart from Manchester Climbing centre theres Rockover Climbing - bouldering wall just to the West of Manchester city centre which is a specialised bouldering wall. Awesome walls in Stockport is probably about the same distance time wise (c. 25 min down the motorway) and has an OK (fairly good probs but not huge) bouldering bit.

You can get a cheapo pair of rock boots from Decathlon in Stockport (other side of the motorway from the Stockport pyramid) for c.£30 - but you tend to get what you pay for, so after a few months you may want something stickier/better.. but probably OK to start with..

If you want a starter bouldering mat, theres plenty of choice, but the Alpkit Phud is pretty good value for £80 for its size/foam (again it may not last years and years but is a good place to start..)

 

« Last Edit: March 02, 2011, 07:31:12 pm by tomtom »

ZeeW

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#16 Re: Newbie advice
March 02, 2011, 07:27:47 pm
Bridestones Nr Todmorden, sometimes also referred to as the Kebs, is probably your nearest place - great spot.. but it has erosion problems so make sure your boots are clean (mud/sand on shoes acts like sandpaper) and it also needs a day or so to dry (the rock is a bit fragile so never go when its damp...).

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/bridestones.html

 


Just checked out that link - amazing and thanks!

tomtom

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#17 Re: Newbie advice
March 02, 2011, 07:34:10 pm
No probs  - just updated my post above with some more shizzle. Take it easy on the Kebs, it does erode sadly too easily so its one place where ethics (such as cleaning boots & being careful with the rock) is especially important. Its a fabulous spot though... 

dean0c

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#18 Re: Newbie advice
March 02, 2011, 08:50:41 pm
Cheers guys - lots of great info.

I'm in Bury and can travel within a 50 mile radius, but I'd rather stay local if I can.  I've a lot of time on my hands having just been made redundant so crags nearer to home are better, as are indoor walls.

Just need to get my ass into gear and go and buy some boots etc... hopefully in the next few days.

If you're in Bury you should check out Rockover climbing in Manchester (http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/). I don't live in Manchester anymore but went there regularly when it opened last summer. Excellent wall and route setting and always a really good crowd ranging in ability, but most of all the prices are excellent compared to what I now pay in Edinburgh. Alternatively now that Spring is approaching get yourself outdoors!

slackline

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#19 Re: Newbie advice
March 03, 2011, 07:48:54 am
Bridestones Nr Todmorden, sometimes also referred to as the Kebs, is probably your nearest place - great spot.. but it has erosion problems so make sure your boots are clean (mud/sand on shoes acts like sandpaper) and it also needs a day or so to dry (the rock is a bit fragile so never go when its damp...).

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/bridestones.html

Just checked out that link - amazing and thanks!

 :shrug: It was linked from the wiki too ;)

ZeeW

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#20 Re: Newbie advice
March 03, 2011, 08:39:51 am
Yeah the wiki link is v/helpful - just on it now looking at the South Lancs bouldering site.

 

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