[account_inactive]

Christian "Dark Horse" Clemmot (sic) climbed an extension of Ben's Roof at the Tor in awful conditions.  I'm not sure what the name is or the grade although he said route 8b+ seemed appropriate.  The start feels about 7a+ to get into the start of Ben's roof. 

[wiain]

Christian "Dark Horse" Clemmot (sic)

Is he any relation to Kristian Clemmow?   

[Bonjoy]

Isn't there already a recorded extension start to Ben's Roof starting right in the back? Sure I've seen it in an old guide.

[account_inactive]

Christian "Dark Horse" Clemmot (sic)

Is he any relation to Kristian Clemmow?   

Different guy 

From what Zippy said it was thought that crimping Harris had done it.  It turned out he did the moves but not the link up.  This sounds like a shit problem but it climbs really well on good holds (even in the bad conditions we had today)

[benpritch]

Christian "Dark Horse" Clemmot (sic)

Is he any relation to Kristian Clemmow?   

Different guy 

From what Zippy said it was thought that crimping Harris had done it.  It turned out he did the moves but not the link up.  This sounds like a shit problem but it climbs really well on good holds (even in the bad conditions we had today)

this is the repeats thread?

[Ru]

From what Zippy said it was thought that crimping Harris had done it.  It turned out he did the moves but not the link up.  This sounds like a shit problem but it climbs really well on good holds (even in the bad conditions we had today)

It's in the guide because I thought Zippy had done it. I also think that both me and/or Steve Mac may have done it since the guide came out, at the same time we did some extension finishes and loops at the end as training problems a few years ago, but I can't remember 100%. I'm glad I've cleared that up. I'll change the FA to Kristian in the guide (if there's one in there at all) as he's the only person that has definitely done it.

[kc]

Not sure I significantly repeated anything!Wrong thread.
 This line is a useful power endurance addition(something lacking in the Peak) No idea of grade as I am not a boulderer and I have Ben's roof wired.  I'd be keen to know what people think though. Imagine doing Weedkiller into  Ben's with no knee bar rests or fagging out left for a soft option finish, I think 8b+ route or a full V font whatever grade harder, maybe?

[grimer]

I also think that both me and/or Steve Mac may have done it since the guide came out, at the same time we did some extension finishes and loops at the end as training problems a few years ago, but I can't remember 100%.

Me and/or Steve Mac added a 9a finish to Evolution a few years ago. I'll check my UKC logbook and let you know.

[robertostallioni]

Me and/or Steve Mac took my Mrs out for a pizza last night.

If something funny's going on here, its exactly the kind of shit I need to know about.

[Ru]

Me and/or Steve Mac took my Mrs out for a pizza last night.

Ok, I regret writing that.

There's 2 extension finishes that could be linked in to the extended start - go low at the end and trav left to finish on the Mecca jugs (not much harder than the normal finish) and a contrived but harder finish, climbing the finish the right hand way, reversing the left hand finish, then traversing left to the Mecca jugs.

Unless me and/or Steve Mac have already done it...

[Stubbs]

Imagine doing Weedkiller into  Ben's with no knee bar rests or fagging out left for a soft option finish, I think 8b+ route or a full V font whatever grade harder, maybe?

So you're not allowed to use knee bars or smoke near the end of the problem, is that what you're saying? Is it ok to use heels? Is it ok to use your thumb when crimping?

[kc]

No just doing it that way for a power endurance hit, training for bigger and better things. 

[account_inactive]

Sorry should have made a new thread for this. Was too busy eating pizza

[nik at work]

With Stallions wife? The plot thickens...

[account_inactive]

I'm not at liberty to say

[kc]

Quote from Ru:
It's in the guide because I thought Zippy had done it. I also think that both me and/or Steve Mac may have done it since the guide came out, at the same time we did some extension finishes and loops at the end as training problems a few years ago, but I can't remember 100%. I'm glad I've cleared that up. I'll change the FA to Kristian in the guide (if there's one in there at all) as he's the only person that has definitely done it.


Just spoke to Steve and he said he had done the cave start a few years back. He did however mention that it started from a good hold adding 4 extra moves, Dawid and myself have contrived a couple of extra moves starting from a good open handed undercut. We also extensively cleaned up the sharp muddy crozzly sandy shite adorning the back of the cave. I am not looking to claim a FA, We have just made it more worthwhile.

[Ru]

Did this today from kristians new start. It's pretty good. The start moves are nicely continuous and add 8 moves into the start of Bens Roof. I thought it added a grade. I did bens roof my normal way which isn't the easiest method ( no kneebar, direct exit) but I also have it wired. Felt like 8A/route 8b+.