I thought that the 'volume' aspect of core training was because the core muscles are postural and have to contract isometrically for long periods, they are predominantly slow twitch, with the conventional wisdom being that slow twitch fibres respond better to higher reps.
I wonder how much core training Jerry was doing did before he sent Dominator?
Sicko.You (and Tommy for that matter) would do well to remember this famous quote: "If the back of your hand touches the rock, it isn't climbing".I can't remember which Frenchy said that, but it's words to live by.
There is only one study that I know of that reports fibre type in human abdominal muscles and it had only 13 subjects, too small for it to be taken very seriously. It found 55–58% type 1 fibres in transversus abdominis, which is not very different to figures reported for other muscles in sedentary humans. It also reports: "There were large inter-individual variations in fibre composition, whereas, in general, the differences between the different muscles were minor or non-existent"
A bit of late night Googling:Linky1Linky2Linky3
And another thing....I think a high degree of core exercise and proprioception work is necessary for anyone who sits at a desk all day and still wants to climb hard - weak, non-firing glutes, tight psoas, weak abs, can soon lead to kyphotic-lordotic posture, which can cause shoulder problems which can refer to the elbow... etc...So, a lot of posterior chain work, stretching, and proprioceptive work as well.
In the end there's a lot of SCIENCE missing on this, and a lot of contradictory SCIENCE, so I tend to go with a combination of what trainers/coaches have observed to work, and what I have found to work for me over the years.Experience has shown that next year it'll all be wrong and I'll have to change my opinions again based on the new SCIENCE.
Truth in science can be defined as the working hypothesis best suited to open the way to the next better one.
the wall has a full gym,
Can anyone actually recommend a set of exercises? The amount of information on the web is overwhelming.
Don't bother with dumbells ( Simon)
nothing to do with your legs then?
that wasn't my point, is it your core thats imrpoved or your sparrow legs? Although it doesn't matter if it works I suppose.
Quote from: Paul B on February 22, 2011, 12:48:08 pmthat wasn't my point, is it your core thats imrpoved or your sparrow legs? Although it doesn't matter if it works I suppose.This is all desirable stuff in shifting the load away from my lower back which took an unfair share before and was in the regular habit of getting severely strained. Touch wood, that hasnt happened of late despite training hard and for me is a big YYFY.
Quote from: Serpico on February 20, 2011, 08:02:38 pmAnd another thing....I think a high degree of core exercise and proprioception work is necessary for anyone who sits at a desk all day and still wants to climb hard - weak, non-firing glutes, tight psoas, weak abs, can soon lead to kyphotic-lordotic posture, which can cause shoulder problems which can refer to the elbow... etc...So, a lot of posterior chain work, stretching, and proprioceptive work as well.Your absolutely bang on there serps, dealing with sitting at a desk has become part of my training ritual. Quad stretches, arse clenches, and army style chest out private at lunches, otherwise my posture starts to go really bad.
Quote from: biscuit on February 19, 2011, 10:01:06 amLots of volume and variety is what i've been told.Why volume? I'm always amazed that the mystical 'core' is treated differently to any other muscle group when training strength. For example if you do 1000's of situps (or variants thereof) wouldn't you be better off doing something more taxing... Stevie Haston doesn't agreee.I found rings let me reap core rewards as they're so damn unstable!
Lots of volume and variety is what i've been told.
Shark, what was/is your program for sorting out recurring lower back strains? I think I fall into the category of people with dodgy core (despite being a climber) as a legacy of bad posture and bad form lifting heavy(ish) weights in my younger years exacerbated by a desk-bound job (stiff upper back, psoas etc). I'm constantly coming away from a session at the wall or a day at the crag with a sore lower back or sides (obliques). Any tips?
Quote from: fried on February 22, 2011, 07:16:38 amthe wall has a full gym, Does it have dumbells ?