[Greg C]

This is a question to Si Panton although I was wondering what other people thought of the general idea?
Si I remeber talking to you on the phone some time ago and you mentioned the possability of producing a hard back (coffee table style) book on bouldering around britain similar to that of the extreme/hard/classic rock books.With individuals from local areas writting about the local classics and test pieces. Is this still a possability? As I think it would be a great book and it would be the first thing on             my christmas list :D
What does anyone else think?

Greg

[dave]

Good idea.

I'll volunteer to write the Roche Abbey section.

[nik at work]

And I'll volunteer to do Denham Quarry and Rivelin Quarries.....

[Bubba]

I think it's a good idea in theory but the first thing that springs to mind is surely the production costs of a high quality coffee table book (high quality prints, hardback, etc) would be very high.
That combined with the fact that  I reckon the number of dedicated boulderers (compared to say, the number of climbers as a whole) is still relatively small and would a pure bouldering book appeal to the wider climbing community?

It would be interesting to see if any general climbing/mountaineering c/table books have been commercially successful.

[dave]

What about instead of doing a book, do a limited run of magazine-style installations over the course of 6 months??? Like the size/style of an issue if OTE, but no adverts, no bollocks, just packed with good photos and hard-rock style stories etc. Kept in a good style, i.e. not looking too ultra-modern magagziney so it won't date.  Could be, say, 6 issues, with a cut of classic venues/lesser known ones in each issue, so each one would sell well.

For example, issue 1 with Burbage Valley, Ogwen, Bowderstone and Shaftoe, issue 2 with Earl, Ysgo, Dumby and Bowden.

[dobbin]

Oooh! I'd buy it! that sounds ace!

[Greg C]

Yeah I like that magazine idea its really wicked although without the adverts I think it would prob. cost nearly as much as a book over a number of issues, but still a good alternative.

Greg

[dave]

You could always get some companies to support it in a low-key manner, like have a page at the front saying "this publication is only made possible with the help of xxx,zzzz,yyyy etc" with their logos and then leave it at that. If you could convince a few big companies that it was a quality rag then I'm sure there would be a few that would want their name associated with it. You could maybe charge £4 a throw, and if everyone knew it was going to be a one-off string of 6 issues (well publicised obviously), either buy one now or miss-out, then i recon you would shift a stack, especially since OTE blows.

[Bubba]

The problem with a mag like that is that after the six months was up, unless retailers held stocks of all six issues, there would be no more revenue.

At least with a book, people can buy it anytime, although I doubt anyone buys copies of Dave Jones' "Rock climbing in Britain" anymore, which when it was released was awesome.  Also, mags tend to get lost/used for bog roll/etc.

Maybe a quality website, with the offer of a book version for sale? That of course, would have different pitfalls.

[the dark side]

this must be the start of the winter of our discontent,

when all the climbers stopped dreaming of living in a tent

and decided to publish

what can only be described as rubbish

instead of training all through lent

[Nigel]

Great idea Greg (copyright Si Panton). I'd buy it, it'd be easy to get people to write essays for it, fun to get photos for - oooh, can't wait. Magazine idea is a good one, I'd prefer a book, but the mag idea gives it a certain "underground" appeal which makes me horny.

Question - who would write the bit about Angel Deelite at Woodell OTR? OK you can, as long as I get to write about my (continuing) Art of Self Destruction saga and get some lovely pics of my own shitter...

[Nigel]

How about suggestions for problems from each and every area, maybe with some ideas of linked "themes"; for example the progression of development at an infrequented crag (Angel Deelite and Woodwell OTR), or the shock of a visiting superstar (Malc's visit to N.Wales, Malc's Start); which could form the basis for an accompanying essay. OK, to get us in the mood I'll suggest some of the better known problems that would certainly have a place, and you can help me out with who should do the commentary on it:

- Spare Rib, Stanton Moor (possibly Jason Myers, could write about he was the only one who could be arsed to develop new areas in the Peak?)

- Loui Ferrino, Parisellas

- The Ace (Moffatt commenting on the development of this problem from the Joker to the realisation of his true aim?)

- Careless Torque

- Cocoa Team Special, Rylstone

- Walk Away Sit Start, Fairy Steps

And what about the problems no-one knows about but which are amazing? Angel Deelite V7 would HAVE to be in (just ask Panton), so what about similar stuff from other areas - Northumberland, Scotland, South Coast, Devon, Ireland, etc...

What should the minimum grade be (it is *Extreme* bouldering, Extreme Rock didn't have any HVS's in did it?!). V6? V7?

What should a problem have to be in? Character, history, aesthetics, purity, none of the above?

Fire away...

[Pantontino]

It is a definite possibility, and myself and Ray Wood have discussed it at length. Once the N Wales Bouldering guide is in the bag (soon I promise), I might go for it. My main worry is the commercial prospects of such a publication. Is there a widespread desire for such a book? I know that in the underground bouldering scene there would be plenty of interest, however we have to consider to what extent has this fascination with british bouldering culture penetrated the mainstream?

I think mainsteam climbers are interested in easy accessible bouldering (just in the same way that they are interested in a Mike Robertson or Chris Craggs articles highlighting low/ mid grade routes). Whether or not that extends beyond the V5/6 gateway to the deeper game of hardcore bouldering is a moot point.

If there is little support for a book, then perhaps a quarterly, or bi-annual magazine would be more appropiate. I know that Mo Overfield is considering such a project at the moment (although I'm sure he won't thank me for mentioning it on here).

Cheers, Simon.

[screwyouI'mfromderby]

Don't put Stanton Moor in a book like that, or indeed any book.

Some things should be let alone.

Unfortunately that doesn't include yo'momma.

word.

[hongkongstuey]

My main worry is the commercial prospects of such a publication. Is there a widespread desire for such a book?

How about following more of a Stone Crusade approach to things - you could still use local climbers to write the individual areas - a more general book with a good historical aspect included might have more appeal to the masses than a glorified ticklist (although i'd quite happily snap one of these up too), although the amount of time and effort for something like this would undoubtably be considerably higher.

[Nigel]

Very fair point Mr Screwyou, some places should be kept low-key. Maybe you should vent your frustration at (next month's) OTE?

[Bubba]

Stanton is never really going to appeal to the masses anyway - you have to search stuff out, it's not like Burbage Valley or something.