[AJM]

Hey guys,

Probably going to be here for a few days just before Easter. Wondered if anyone has any beta about either crag - general feel, tips and tricks, good routes to go at (mixed group, so 5s through to mid 7s), whether the guide is any good, that sort of thing.

Cheers,

Andy

[mrjonathanr]

Last went years ago. Coeur de Loup 7b+ at Orgon Canal was quite good. Totally SIKA'd but good moves. Rightwards line through the big roofs a few metres right was good at 7a/b. You can climb there when it rains, but it's a bit like Stoney frankly. There are better venues.

[AJM]

You can climb there when it rains, but it's a bit like Stoney frankly. There are better venues.

Do you mean just the Canal, or the whole of Orgon?

[shark]

Orgon a wet weather venue close to noisy road polished but good climbing.

Mouries is the opposite. Lovely setting but the routes are the living end - off vertical desperates.

Along with Volx they are the three worst crags I've been to in France - but still better than most sport crags in the Peak.

[mrjonathanr]

Only been to the canal. Sure spend a day or two, but better still go to Buoux. The other Alpilles crags are supposed to be okay, but I've not been there.

Similar rock Canal-Volx and it's not aesthetic,polished/brown. Volx is a very good crag however, in a scruffy/Peak sort of way.

[AJM]

You guys aren't really selling it, its got to be said.

These guys http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=445618&v=1#x6251246 seemed a bit more positive, but possibly its different at different grades. Either that or you guys have higher epectations.

Ah well, I'll see how it goes - if its crap then its not like theres a shortage of other venues nearby.

[fatdoc]

Only been to the canal. Sure spend a day or two, but better still go to Buoux. The other Alpilles crags are supposed to be okay, but I've not been there.

Similar rock Canal-Volx and it's not aesthetic,polished/brown. Volx is a very good crag however, in a scruffy/Peak sort of way.

20 year old beta though...

[Jaspersharpe]

I thought Orgon Canal was a sack of shit. Why anyone would climb there when you've got Buoux down the road is beyond me. Worth one day out of a month long trip just to remind you how good it is at Bout De Monde, La Plage etc etc etc.

However, for the lower grades (5s and low 6s) the other bit is pretty good and has quite a lot to go at. Certainly worth a day or two for those climbing at that level.

Don't know anything about Mouries.

*also 20 yr old beta disclaimer*

[tomtom]

This will probably be semi-useless beta, but as a Stoodent we went on a Boux trip in 92 (or 93..) and climbing 5's and 6's pretty much got shut down by Boux.. but we did go to Orgon for a couple of days, and I remember there being a large ampitheathre type crag (it was busy) that was packed with 5's and 6's and a good time was had by all..

[AJM]

Jaspersharpe, tomtom - cheers for the beta

[mrjonathanr]

Jaspersharpe, tomtom - cheers for the beta

Well that's gratitude for you. I give you names/grades/locations - you give them all the credit.
BTW It does matter what your grade is, as Jasper said, Buoux has less to offer below mid sixes, and can be stressful for tendons if you are unused to pockets. If you have a car there's Buis les B, Dentelles de Montmirail, bloody loads. I assume you've had a gander at ......


Bloody hell. COSIROC is effectively defunct, and Volx is voluntarily banned. I'm really not up to date.
COSIROC new, limited site and COSIROC old,defunct,and not-now-so-useful site

[AJM]

Well that's gratitude for you. I give you names/grades/locations - you give them all the credit.

my bad - sorry. 

They were the two who replied after my last post, that's all. I do appreciate the time you've taken to help.

Sadly its all just gone up in the air as my partner has messed up his shoulder, so Christ knows where I'm going or who with now. Given the writeup you guys have given it, I might give it a smaller bit-part in any revised plans and focus more on other areas.....

Cheers,

Andy

[Palomides]

Bloody hell. COSIROC is effectively defunct, and Volx is voluntarily banned. I'm really not up to date.
COSIROC new, limited site and COSIROC old,defunct,and not-now-so-useful site

More up to date is the FFME Annuaire: http://www.ffme.fr/site/FALAISE_index.php

[ianv]

As jasper said, Orgon is/was really really crap. I was there years ago and it was polished then. The local idiot was chipping, sikaing, sticking new holds on to bring everything down to his grade. There were random bits of polished rock stuck on and it felt like being at an overhanging version of Stoney with added sika.

Mouriers is just off vertical and sharp edges and desperate, I hated it (again a long time ago).

Keep going to Boux or even Cimei

[tomtom]

Thought of going to the Ardeche instead? Went there a couple of times with low/mixed standard climbing and there was more to do...?

[AJM]

Thought of going to the Ardeche instead?

I'd thought of it, but the people I know have been fairly convinced that places like Seynes are better, and I know that its still got a pretty good grade spread and stuff. Its a possible mind you, but I've probably got other places to go first.....

[mrjonathanr]

Keep going to Boux or even Cimei

Cimai is fabulous but very hot as it's a sun trap. It's also fingery, technical and powerful. Not a venue I'd recommend in the sixes though there are routes in those grades. Chateauvert's a nice varied crag. 'Newer' crags like Seynes I don't know but the tufas look cool. For my money the finest French crag is the Verdon, it's beyond anything else in terms of combined rock quality/route quality/atmosphere and location, including Ceuse. Not so thuggy, more technical, truly beautiful. And I was resident in Apt/Buoux/Les Seguins for periods but I'd still have to give the crown to the Verdon, though not everyone would agree I know.
Palomides - thanks for the link.
AJM - only joking! I'm sure wherever you get to go to you'll enjoy it. Just remember the South of France is one huge bed of limestone so wherever you go there are world class cliffs nearby, from the Alpes de Haute Provence to the Pyrenees. Don't get me started on the western crags, they're great too...John and Ann Arran might have info on them I believe.

[AJM]

Chateauvert's a nice varied crag. 'Newer' crags like Seynes I don't know but the tufas look cool. For my money the finest French crag is the Verdon,

Sounds like I'm onto something good - I'm off on a short trip to Chateauvert in a few weeks, and the revised trip looks like it might still include a bit of Verdon time too.

Seynes is awesome by the way - really impressive tufas and stuff. The other thing to note about it, should it ever be a requirement, is that its got a lot more good quality routes in the 5s and 6s than you might imagine from the usual photos of that big main wall (the wings are really good quality rock, grey slabs/walls with good routes on them), so it would actually make a good venue for a mixed group too.

[SA Chris]

The main crag at Chateauvert gets really hot in the sun at midday, but there are some shady crags in bays to the right of the main crag which stay cooler.

[fatdoc]

Keep going to Boux or even Cimei

Cimai is fabulous but very hot as it's a sun trap. It's also fingery, technical and powerful. Not a venue I'd recommend in the sixes though there are routes in those grades. Chateauvert's a nice varied crag. 'Newer' crags like Seynes I don't know but the tufas look cool. For my money the finest French crag is the Verdon, it's beyond anything else in terms of combined rock quality/route quality/atmosphere and location, including Ceuse. Not so thuggy, more technical, truly beautiful. And I was resident in Apt/Buoux/Les Seguins for periods but I'd still have to give the crown to the Verdon, though not everyone would agree I know.
Palomides - thanks for the link.
AJM - only joking! I'm sure wherever you get to go to you'll enjoy it. Just remember the South of France is one huge bed of limestone so wherever you go there are world class cliffs nearby, from the Alpes de Haute Provence to the Pyrenees. Don't get me started on the western crags, they're great too...John and Ann Arran might have info on them I believe.

despite nearly dying there the sixes in the verdon will change yr life... 5s... not so sure.

go.

a very special place.

[Norton Sharley]

  and a big up for Chateauvert rather than Seynes/Mouriers/Organ considering 6's.  But it is predominantly south east facing.

[Climbapaedia]

I know I'm coming into this one a bit late but Climbapedia has loads of info on all these crags (and more) as well as info on places to stay, shops and bars as well as links to buy to guidebooks needed.

For future reference check out http://www.climbapaedia.com

Go to the map and click on the region you are interested in (hopefully it should all be self explanatory from there).

The site is growing and taking in new regions and countries all the time. Other developments also to some on line soon including space for people to leave feedback for each crag and more information about each region.

There is also a forum for climbing / travel related stuff so please get involved and help to spread the word.

Ollie

[psychomansam]

admin gonna make you paaaaaaay

 

[ianv]

For the record, I thought the verdon was shit. Lived in Provence for a year and climbed there for one day. On a par with mourners for tweekyness

[slackline]

For the record, I thought the verdon was shit. Lived in Provence for a year and climbed there for one day. On a par with mourners for tweekyness

  

[Norton Sharley]

The walk in from the belvedere is too far for him

[mrjonathanr]

For the record, I thought the verdon was shit. Lived in Provence for a year and climbed there for one day.

  Did you use your feet? 

[Fiend]

I quite liked Mouries. It is thin and desperate for the grades but it's a nice bit of rock in a nice situation.

[ianv]

[  Did you use your feet? 

I would have done but I was wearing s. Anyway, given my propensity to forget tying in, in retrospect the Verdon was a bad idea.

[G_M]

Mouries in August - the hottest place I have ever been in my life!