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Wide Boyz in Vedauwoo Part Two
21 September 2011, 7:02 pm

The rain stopped and Tom and Pete have wasted no time in getting stuck into some hideous fissures. Pete began with what may be the first onsight of ‘Squat’ 5.12b. On Monday morning they both sent ‘Spacial Relations’ 5.13a, possibly the hardest offwidth route at Vedauwoo. ‘Worm Drive’ 5.11b followed in the afternoon. On Tuesday morning the excellent ‘Trip Master Monkey’ 5.12b, a Bob Scarpelli classic, gave them both a good beasting.Pete Whittaker on 'Trip Master Monkey' 5.12b at Vedauwoo Tom Randall suffering at the top of 'Spacial Relations' 5.13a Tom Randall in 'Worm Drive' 5.11b Pete Whittaker onsighting 'Squat' 5.12b

Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Wide Boyz In Vedauwoo Part Two\Three
23 September 2011, 11:53 pm

Just three pics today, more tomorrow.Hands of an Offwidther Pete Whittaker sending the Justin Edl boulder problem 'Simiantics' V9

 The hire car of an Offwidther

Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Wide Boyz In Vedauwoo Part Three
24 September 2011, 7:42 pm

We have been in Vedauwoo just over a week now. We have settled into a routine of getting up when the sun hits the tent, shivering through breakfast and then going climbing (or spending two hours lost in some Aspen woodland). At the bottom of the route Tom and Pete undergo their hand taping rituals while I sort my photographic gear and scope for angles. The cold evenings are  spent cooking over a big fire at the campsite. Rest days involve drinking coffee in the cowboy town of Laramie.

Tom and Pete have now pretty much completed their Vedauwoo route list – ‘Squat’ 5.12b, ‘Spacial Relations’ 5.13a, ‘Wormdrive’ 5.11b, ‘Trip Master Monkey’ 5.12b, ‘On a Wing and a Prayer’ 5.12c and ‘The Big Pink’ 5.11b.

Lucille awaits and Utah beckons.Tom Randall upside down on 'On a Wing and a Prayer' 5.12c

 



Pete Whittaker On-sighting 'The Big Pink' 5.11b

 



 Hand Stacking in 'Simiantics' V9 Campsite Blogging

Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Pete Whittaker On-Sights ‘Lucille’
26 September 2011, 7:47 pm

 Spacial Relations, Squat, Wing and a Prayer and Trip Master Monkey had all been ascended. Only one route remained and it was the big one. Lucille. I could sense the apprehension. Tension was building and when the day dawned clear and windless there could be no more excuses. We scrambled up to the base. Tom and Pete taped up, climbed the first pitch and Pete having won the toss got to work.Pete Whittaker On-Sighting 'Lucille' 5.13a at Vedauwoo

After his ascent Pete said ‘Tom and I were pretty apprehensive about the route as it is one of the biggest offwidth lines in the world. I set off nervously but soon got into a rhythm through the horizontal squeeze section. I got into such a rhythm of shuffling and advancing chicken wings that I forgot to place any cams after the roof and managed to turn into the vertical section quite runout and very out of breath, however I soon found myself on easier ground and shuffling towards the anchors.’

 Tom Randall gazing up at Lucille before his ascent

 Wild Country Friends 5 and 6 packed for Lucille

Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Coffee with Bob Scarpelli, the List and Goodbye to Vedauwoo
29 September 2011, 7:03 pm

We had the great privilege this morning of spending a couple of hours drinking coffee with Vedauwoo legend Bob Scarpelli.Bob Scarpelli

 

It’s been a successful couple of weeks at Vedauwoo for Tom and Pete with all of their primary objectives ticked.The Vedauwoo Ascent List

 

  We now head south to Utah. Vedauwoo said goodbye in fine style last night when a moose rampaged through our campsite. Trench Warfare and Indian Creek await.

Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Tom Randall Solos Trench Warfare
1 October 2011, 11:23 pm

Its amazing what two days rest and a shower can do. After moving down to Salt Lake City for a wash and to pick up the RV, a quick visit to Trench Warefare resulted in two flashes, an extension and a solo.

Tom kicked off with a smooth flash, looking calm and relaxed throughout. After stripping the gear Pete decided the original route wasn’t long enough and he climbed along the slab to the further most end of the crack before beginning his flash ascent, adding ten feet of crack to the route.

After Pete’s extension, Tom was still psyched and obviously wanting more, so he got straight back on for Trench Warefare’s first solo.Tom Randall Flashing 'Trench Warfare' 5.12d Pete Whittaker flashing an extended version of 'Trench Warfare' Tom Randall soloing 'Trench Warfare' (no mats!)



Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Crusher, Canyonlands and Clif Bars
3 October 2011, 7:42 pm

We arrived in Moab yesterday and this morning met up with Steve ‘Crusher’ Bartlett, author of the astounding and outstanding book Desert Towers. Crusher is going to be our guide in Canyonlands for the next few days.From now on we will be mostly eating Clif Bars

Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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The Hardest Offwidth in the World
7 October 2011, 1:28 am

Hiding shyly under the Canyonlands White Rim in Utah is possibly the longest roof crack in the world. Discovered by desert legend Steve ‘Crusher’ Bartlett, while prospecting for desert towers, Crusher returned and aid soloed the line in 2001 and named it ‘Chocolate Starfish’. Next came Stevie Haston, who gallantly attempted to free the enormous roof crack, failed but tentively offered a ’9a’ grade.  The route had now acquired the name ‘Century Crack’ and mentions in magazine articles and internet rumours helped enhance it’s reputation.Directions to 'Century Crack' taped to Crushers TruckInspired by Stevie’s descriptions of the route, Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker began dreaming, and scarcely daring to admit their ambitions, they began a secret training regime in Tom’s cellar. Two years later myself, Tom, Pete, Crusher and Filmmaker Chris Alstrin trundled our way down the dirt track into Canyonlands. An abseil down over the White Rim, an easy descent and then a loose intimidating but easy gully leads back into a wide cave and to beneath the most staggering crack in the world. The offwidth is 120 feet long and completely horizontal from the back of the cave to where it rises up for another 40 feet to the rim.Crusher and rainbow above 'Century Crack' Alex Ekins Bivouacing near 'Century Crack'Tom and Pete spent a day working the route and then on Wednesday the 5th of October Tom won the toss of the tape roll. His first attempt began and with a steady shuffle, wide ponies, knee locks, hand fist stacks and arm bared he ascended the hardest offwidth and what may be the longest roof crack in the world.Tom Randall the morning before his ascent of 'Century Crack'Pete looked shocked as he now realised he too had to get on the sharp end and climb one of the hardest trad routes in the world. He grunted his way through his repertoire of wide crack techniques and his two years of training led him to the top of the greatest climb of his life.Tom Randall on the 1st ascent of 'Century Crack'Tom Randall on the 1st ascent of 'Century Crack'Tom Randall topping out on 'Century Crack'Pete Whittaker on 'Century Crack'Pete Whittaker at the top of 'Century Crack'Pete Whittaker Climbing 'Century Crack'Tom Randall after the 1st ascent of 'Century Crack'Tom Randalls Hands after climbing 'Century Crack'Perhaps the last word should go to that wiley desert fox Crusher who said it was the most impressive display of climbing he had seen in 30 years!Crusher and his trusty Toyota

Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Wide boyz climb Gabriel
12 October 2011, 1:34 am



The ramage continues. Our next stop was Zion and after a late start we found our selves under Pamela Shanti Pack’s offwidth ‘Gabriel’. This was until a week ago, and Tom and Pete’s ascent of ‘Century Crack’, considered America’s hardest offwidth.Pete Whittaker climbing 'Gabriel'

Pete spent a little while practising the moves before quickly sending the route on his first red-point attempt. Tom was not quite able to get the route that afternoon but has successfully returned today.Tom Randall on 'Gabriel'Next stop Indian Creek.

 

Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Pete Whittaker Flashes Belly Full Of Bad Berries
16 October 2011, 8:36 pm

You are on a tour of America’s hardest offwidths. You arrive in Indian Creek. What is the one route you are going to get on first? The answer is obvious, it has to be ‘Belly Full Of Bad Berries’. First climbed by Brad Jackson and immortalised by Simon Carters photos in Rock and Ice magazine.nnnAfter on-sighting and flashing ‘Lucile’ and ‘Trench Warfare’, Pete Whittaker wasn’t going to be content with merely climbing the route, he knew the perfect hard offwidth hat trick would be a flash of the Indian Creek wide classic.nPete Whittaker Flashing ‘Belly Full Of Bad Berries’

nPete won the toss of the tape roll, got straight on the route and approximately 15 minutes later hit the chain.nTom Randall was up next but unfortunately fell on his flash attempt, but happily he got his ascent on his second go.nTom Randall climbing 'Belly Full Of Bad Berries'

Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Crushing in Canyonlands
2 November 2011, 2:49 pm

Tom and Pete apprehend a wayward crack climber in CanyonlandsIt’s felt a little quiet the last couple of weeks. The euphoria surrounding the first ascent of ‘Century Crack’ had worn off and the pace of ascents seemed to have slowed. However on reflection plenty has been going on and hard routes have been sent.

Under the wise leadership of Rob Pizem we were led to a secret location in Canyonlands and presented with a unique selection of hard roof cracks. Tom and Pete led the wide finish to Matt Lazenby’s ridiculously long roof crack boulder problem.

Pete Whittaker on the 'Angry Pirate Finish' 13a Pete Whittaker on the third ascent of 'Army of Darkness' 13dTom and Pete also managed the second and third ascent of Rob Pizum’s wonderful ‘Army of Darkness’ and Tom struggled in the ‘Vadge’

 Tom Randall at the top of the 'Vadge' 13a

The big news however was Jean-Pierre Ouellet’s (aka PeeWee) first ascent of Necronomicon. The 90-foot thin-finger roof crack is tentatively graded 5.14a.Jean -Pierre Ouellet (PeeWee) on Necronomicon 5.14aJean -Pierre Ouellet (PeeWee) on Necronomicon 5.14a

Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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haha - "thin finger roof crack" - he's got both feet and half his arm in there, they must have thick fingers!!

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The Wideboyz Return to Century Crack
6 November 2011, 2:30 pm



What do you do when you have climbed the hardest offwidth in the world and one of the world’s hardest trad routes with pre-placed protection? What’s next? The obvious choice is to return and lead the route again placing all the gear as you go. Start at the beginning, rack up and go. And that is exactly what Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall did last Thursday.

So, myself, Pete, Tom and film maker Chris Alstrim drove back down that long, long, bumpy 4×4 trail to Monument Basin. The temperature on our bivi the night before their second ascent was a chilly -5, but the day dawned bright and the conditions were excellent. This time there was a new and tangible nervousness. They both knew how utterly hard this route was and how it had previously pushed them to their physical limits. Also one month on from their original ascent, psychologically they felt weaker and less psyched.Pete Whittaker leading 'Century Crack' filmed by Chris Alstrin

Pete went first this time. A month ago they had used 13 pre-placed Friends which had to climbed around as they climbed. For their second ascent they opted to carry eight. Pete’s progress along the upside down ‘Wide Pony’ section was slow and by the time he has reached the more upward section he was visibly and audibly wearied. I have watched Pete climb a multitude of hard routes but I have never seen him so stretched. He was talking to himself, muttering, groaning, moaning and croaking. Somehow he managed to summon the fortitude to reach the top having forgotten to places one of his Friends.Tom Randall just before his lead of 'Century Crack'

Tom readied himself while Pete stripped the gear. He looked eerily resigned to his fate and was palpably nervous. Tom moved quickly across but towards the top began to lose the terrible battle. He complained of cramp in his calf and having placed a Friend struggled to clip the rope due to a pumped right hand. He too muttered, groaned, moaned and croaked. However after much pain he too grovelled his way onto the sand of White Rim high above the Colorado river.Tom Randall leading 'Century Crack"

 

 

 

 

Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Wideboyz Film Trailer
13 November 2011, 9:34 pm

Click here to view the embedded video.

Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Pete Whittaker on the cover of Climber
13 November 2011, 10:16 pm



Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Pete Whittaker on the Cover of Climbing
24 November 2011, 3:33 pm



Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

[SA Chris]

Pete grabbing all the cover shots.

Nice one Alex. Kerching!

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Wild Country Wideboyz Video Interview
23 December 2011, 6:29 pm

In 2011 the self styled Wideboyz Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker travelled to America to climb the world’s hardest offwidths. Touring through Wyoming and Utah their exploits culminated in the first ascent of ‘Century Crack’, the world’s hardest offwidth. Here they talk to Richie Patterson of Wild Country about their historic trip.

Click here to view the embedded video.

Click here to view the embedded video.

Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Top Ten iPhone Hipstamatic Photographs
26 December 2011, 4:14 pm

I love my Apple iPhone and as a photographer I have downloaded a certain amount of iPhone photography apps. However despite dabbling in variety of photographic editing apps, and apps that mimic toy cameras I keep coming back to Hipstamatic. Here are my favourite iphone Hipstamatic Photographs.























Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Clothing for Ice Climbing in Rjukan
23 January 2012, 8:18 pm

I have just returned from my second visit to the Norwegian ice climbing venue in Rjukan. Equipment on such trips is of course massively important and it all needs to cope with a variety of cold, wintery, icy conditions – uphill walk-ins, belaying, abseiling and of course the ice climbing itself. So here is my list of my preferred clothing for ice climbing in Rjukan

 I needed a system that would keep me warm, be flexible enough to climb in and be breathable enough to cope with active use without overheating. The climbing varied from single pitch up to five pitch rotes with abseil descents. Temperatures were down to approximately -10 and the winds were fairly light. The list below is what I wore everyday.

The Aeon Long Sleeve Tee I have used these Aeon Long Sleeve Tee’s all over the world in a vast array of different conditions, from the jungles of Borneo, the deserts of Utah and Scottish winter climbing. They are nice and silky next to the skin, wick well and dry very, very quickly. In Norway I wore the Aeon Long Sleeve Tee next to the skin under the PS Bib.

The PS (Power Stretch) Bib



I have always liked the idea of bibs or salopettes as a insulated layer for winter climbing. They stay up,they are warmer, adding some extra insulation to the body and they provide protection where normally there is a clothing gap at the waist. I have been using Polartec Power Stretch as leg-ware in winter for years but these are the first Power Stretch salopettes I have owned. They are tight fitting and very stretchy. Excellent under Gore-tex, Event or NeoShell.

The Rab Baseline Hoodie



I used this as a mid layer over the Aeon Tee and the PS Bibs. This thin gridded fleece is cut long in the body and sleeves, has a high neck and a great hood that fits under a helmet. The cuffs have thumb loops and a chest pocket for stashing phone or camera and a Clif Bar or two.

The Baltoro Guide Pro



Soft shell is a an overused term for just about anything that is vaguely windproof and isn’t a traditional waterproof jacket made from Gore-tex or Event (often called hard shell). However the two Rab jackets, the Baltoro Alpine and the jacket I used, the Baltoro Guide Pro fit my definition of soft shell. Stretchy, breathable, fairly windproof and usable as an outer layer in non rainy conditions. The Baltoro Guide Pro has grid pattern pile lining and a helmet compatible hood. I used this exclusively as my outer layer, just adding a belay jacket for extra warmth when static.

The Stretch Neo Pant



I have been using the Stretch Neo Jacket since Rab introduced it in 2011. The fabric is stretchy and very breathable and I reckoned a pair of over trousers in the same fabric on top of Polartec Power Stretch would be an almost perfect winter leg-ware combination. These pants have the essential 3/4 side zips, belts loops and unusually zipped pockets. They are the best over trousers I have ever used and will be using these most days in Scotland this winter.

The Photon Belay Jacket



A synthetically insulated belay jacket is fairly essential on these type of ice climbing trips. Used as the name suggests this insulated belay jacket provides extra warmth while static. Just chuck it on over everything. A lighter weight belay jacket alternative would be a Rab Generator Alpine Jacket or a Rab Photon Jacket.

The Latok Glove



I have had these gloves for over a year and have used them for Scottish winter climbing and on the summit of the 4,095m Mount Kinabalu in Borneo. I have been fairly indifferent about them, generally preferring a leather palmed glove. However In Norway I used these throughout a five pitch ice climb and on the abseil descent. They kept my hands dry, warm and gripped my leash-less ice axes extremely well.

Alpine Gloves



Thin soft shell and leather palmed gloves. They aren’t as warm as some other gloves but very dexterous and great for using with leash less ice tools on single pitch routes. If using on longer routes I would carry a warmer pair for using while belaying.

I initially carried a Rab Xenon Jacket as an possible extra insulation layer and a Rab Stretch Neo Jacket for more extreme conditions, but these proved unessessary, so later in the week I confidently left these behind. I also had a pair of Rab Baltoro gloves as spares. The same kit would work well in Scottish winter but would definitely require the addition of a hard shell waterproof jacket to cope with the harsher weather on Scotlands mountains.

I am lucky enough to be a sponsored Rab professional so my list obviously reflects this. However most other manufacturers of quality outdoor equipment such as Mountain Equipment, Mountain Hardwear, North Face and Patagonia will be able to provide similarly specified gear.



Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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2012 Sheffield Adventure Film Festival Trailer
31 January 2012, 10:14 pm

Amazing trailer for the 2012 Sheffield Adventure Film Festival

Click here to view the embedded video.



Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Jagged Globe Scottish Winter
19 February 2012, 1:11 am





Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Tom Randall On The Cover of Climber Magazine
28 February 2012, 6:46 pm



Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Jagged Globe Cover
13 March 2012, 7:23 pm

I really pleased to see that one of my favourite photographs from 2011 has been used by Jagged Globe for the cover of their latest brochure. It was taken in Observatory Gully on Ben Nevis.



Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog

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Wild Country Century Crack Poster
19 March 2012, 4:55 pm



My pic of Pete Whittaker on Century Crack used on the new Wild Country poster.



Source: ALEX EKINS » Blog