[tommytwotone]

Thought I'd kick things off as I've got my training diary out...

LTG - 7b by end of 2011

M - Got roped into taking a newbie workmate to The Depot - bit of a nothing session, did a few bits and bobs but nothing hard. Did make progress on one of the "medium" yellow circuit (V7 - V10) that I'd been trying

T - Beastmaker training - realised why it's not a good idea to train before finger training, felt shattered. Really half-arsed session.

W - Nowt

T - Harrogate wall - taught the missus to belay but didn't really do that much, a hour's good bouldering at the end though.

F - Nowt

S - Mates up so nowt, mainly drank coffee, ate cakes and boozed

S - Depot session in afternoon - decent amount of volume, a bit listless but applied self to progress on the yellow from Monday, ended up getting it after about 5 goes - YYFY!!

All in all a bit of an average week, topped off with a bit of unexpected success today...guess that's how it goes sometime!

[Andy F]

Goals - 8b, 7B+

Mon - rest
Tues - good volume at the Hangar. Ticked the purple circuit, flashed everything bar the on tough problem, that took about 5 goes. Lots of other stuff done.
Wed - 40 mins beastmaker, mainly repeaters and pull-ups.
Thurs - rest
Fri - 40 mins beastmaker, mainly front 2/back 3 work.
Sat - Family
Sun - NWF. Lots of routes mileage from 6b - 7b+, felt very tired at the end. Good session, did much better than a month ago.

[fried]

After bet with missus - STG - Touch my toes by the end of the month.
6A in forest

Monday - work - shoulder/ elbow stuff + stretching
Tuesday - work - shoulder/ elbow stuff + stretching
Wednesday - poor session, slept badly all week, nearly go to sleep on some crash pads. 1h climbing 30 mins gym.
Thursday - work - shoulder/ elbow stuff + stretching
Friday - Relaxed session, should be dry on Sunday for first visit of the year to Font. Any time I feel a twinge anywhere I stop for 5 mins.
Saturday - NNFN laptop fries motherboard 2 weeks after guarantee runs out, sort that out. Mate who's repairing the car tells me it won't be ready for Sunday. That's three good weekends lost. Mates; cheap but unreliable. Shoulder stuff as usual.
Sunday - Sulk, weather fantastic. Scrounge old computer. Can't even be bothered to jog.

Looking forward to week of work hell.

Weight 75.8kg

[Muenchener]

STG: Strength Phase of Winter Training Plan. Complete Thalkirchen red & green bouldering circuits by 5th March. Current score: 15/18
          200 practice falls before Easter. Current score: 22
MTG: Mittlere Weisse Wand, Konstein. 6b os in Arco at Easter
LTG: 7a rp; classic big Vs / VIs at local crags (Kaisergebirge, Wetterstein etc.) e.g. West Face Totenkirchl

M:
T: Office gym: turkish getups & bw rows as warm-up, short bouldering session, core. Bouldering doesn't mix well with general gym stuff; better to keep them in separate sessions. I do, however, feel the need to put a bit more general strength/conditioning sutff back into the mix: not to get better at climbing, but for general health & fitness.
W: Bouldering, Thalkirchen. Working problems on target circuits; three ticked, viable-feeling sequences worked out on two of the remaining four. 20 minutes aerocap & 20 minutes stretching to warm down.
T:
F: Bouldering, Thalkirchen. Ticked *one* more of my target problems after an epic siege of a dozen goes. So much for the "flash stuff" training strategy for the comp. 15 minutes aerocap & 15 minutes stretching to warm down.
S: Wall, Gilching. Still feeling yesterday's bouldering, but Frau M wanted a belayer, so did a steady mileage session: 12 routes.
S:

STG: "Don't come last" in boulderwelt comp on 19th Feb is too timid, and dependent on other people. So: score over 400 in boulderwelt comp. This means either flashing some of the "medium" difficulty problems or getting up some "hard" ones.

[Nibile]

mon - fingerboard. one arm dead hangs on 1,5 cm edge x 10 sets. two arms back3 and front3 on 1 cm edge x 4 sets. 
tue - rest.
wed - gym. terrible session. hot, tired, heavy. one problem went down.
thu - bouldering in Sasso. YYFY. repeated an old problem of mine then did a nice variation. then tried the roof project. YYFY. felt so good.
fri - rest. felt poorly.
sat - rest. felt poorly then recovered and caught the train to Font.
sun - grimpe dans la Foret... tunnel tomorrow. 'nuff said.

[cheque]

Ill all week. only just starting to get better. I'm not even going to post my goals as it's too depressing.

Last night I needed both hands to break a chocolate orange open. 

[i_a_coops]

VSTG: Sort out massive cut in finger.
STG: Right Hand Man, The Terrace

M - core, bar
T - Indoor bouldering, pulled quite hard
W - Indoor routes, getting moderately fit again, some euro-stamina (up down up down etc.)
T - more indoor routes, more euro stamina.
F - core,  bar
S - rest
S - Cheddar, finally had a go on Right Hand Man. Did the moves and linked it in two sections, unfortunately there is a massive problem with this route - half the holds are essentially razorblades. I now have a fingertip flapper.
    

Anyone got tips on climbing very sharp routes without bleeding everywhere?

I hate having rubbish skin....

[nai]

Aims

M - 50+ pressups and pullups, 200 rep core workout
T - 100 rep core workout
w
T - warmup at home, couple of hours doing SOTG @gardoms. 200 rep core workout + front planks.
F - midday - max hangs;  eve - 230 rep core workout + front & side planks
S - 230 rep core workout
S - ditto + planks

Slight elbow tweek after Friday's FB session so I've avoided anything that might aggrevate it further, felt ok today so hope to do something tomorrow.  Want to be fit and ready just in case the weather works out.

[duncan]

MTG - E5/V5/7b

M - Shoulder stability
T - Arch gentle circuit
W - Arch gentle circuit
T - Arch not-quite-so gentle circuit; 4x4s
F - Arch gentle circuit
S - Beer, chips and mayonnaise
S - Shoulder stability stuff, more beer, chips and mayonnaise

Started the week with a cold, finished it with a cold and in a flat country.  One almost decent training day.

[Luthor]

STG  - Stay psyched (going well so far), train hard, not get injured...
MTG  - F8a Sport route in 2011. Add to the fairly small list of font 7b bouldering ticks.


Mon     - busy / rest
Tue     - bouldering sess at works. did purple bloc circuit. 35 problems
Wed     - The edge. stamina pyramids. 2x5 warm up. up down up 6a, 6a+, up up 6c, 7a, 6c, up down up 6b, 6a
Thurs   - Felt battered. Lunchtime sess on 20° board @ Works. Worked moves on new circuit.
Fri     - rest
Sat     - busy/rest
Sun     - busy/rest

[shark]

After bet with missus - STG - Touch my toes by the end of the month.

There is a trick to this and I'm not setting you up. If you go up and down quickly on your legs doing semi-squats whilst flapping your arms up and down - let loose it looks ridiculous - then after 20 secs of this I bet you can touch your toes.

It confuses the back into not tightening up.

[robertostallioni]

Just did it Shark. Gave myself a good 8 inches.    Double thumbs up.

[slackline]

Just did it Shark. Gave myself a good 8 inches.    Double thumbs up.

But could you touch your toes?   

[shark]

Just did it Shark. Gave myself a good 8 inches.    Double thumbs up.

Nice to teach an old dog a new trick. When do we get to see the video ?

[nai]

On any stretch, after holding it for a while, come out of it taking a deep breath in then go straight back into it exhaling and you'll reach further.  Don't know what the science behind it is but it works.

[shark]

Cheers tommytwotone

Weight 11.7-5
Aims

M Eve.  Foundry 40 deg board. Incomprehensible beta received from Lockyer so reverted to original circuit.13 move circuit 4 reps – 3 sets. 3 x 10 easy boulder problems. Should have been 5 x 10 but felt wasted starting 4th set
T  Lunch. New improved Db, hangs and pulls session incorporating the somewhere-in-Lancashire Complex #1. Eve. 4x4 routes session at Edge. Good session
W. Foundry eve. Bouldered on Wave then did circuits as on Monday but reduced rest times as was short of time.
T. Lunch - deadhangs etc as Tuesday. Did some awesome hangs - felt invincible. Eve. Shed. Started 'hardest moves' session but felt off the boil so knocked it on head starting second set. 12th day on !
F. Rest
S. Belaying at BYCS. PM. Shed. Did hardest move session aborted on Thursday. Felt stroong. Late eve. Dargged myself back to Shed.  20 laps with 60secs rest between laps = 400moves
S. Eve. Foundry. 3 reps of 6 hard problems on Wave.

Another ace week. Regained 3lbs lost last week at beginning of week but its all but come off again. Fly out Friday for long weekend at Millau/Dourbie 

 

[robertostallioni]

I can remember a couple of years ago at a TeamTraining(tm) do, Tony Ally giving an inflexible Drews arse a good fisting for 5 minutes, after which he went from barely touching his knees, to putting his palms done flat.

Absolutely

(Tommy will back me up) The pounding will be etched into his brain.

[Tommy]

Yeah that was such a strange day with Tony Ally! Complete nutter. He is pretty handy with those weird pressure points for stretching though: Drew went from a 70yr old to a 20 yr in a matter of 60secs!

Wish I had him under the bed for whenever I need him...

Shark - glad you've had a good couple of weeks. Don't get too carried away yet! It's still a long road to your dream performance in that shed - keep up the hard work though - you're going great!! 

[The Aaronator]

There is a trick to this and I'm not setting you up. If you go up and down quickly on your legs doing semi-squats whilst flapping your arms up and down - let loose it looks ridiculous - then after 20 secs of this I bet you can touch your toes.

It confuses the back into not tightening up.

Can you post a video of this? I've just spent a ridiculous 2 minutes (I'll not forget in a hurry) trying to work it out with no (non hilarious) result

[robertostallioni]

I did it in a "mexican wave" style. Every second for 20.

[shark]

Can you post a video of this? I've just spent a ridiculous 2 minutes (I'll not forget in a hurry) trying to work it out with no (non hilarious) result

Not a chance !

Sorry it didnt work for you. Maybe do it while sqwuaking like a bird and Stallioni is fisting you ? Worth a try.

[The Aaronator]

I found an example - I think its called the Looney Fairy...



Yes! I made an extra inch.

[aly]

A bit of an odd week, only got climbing once (didn't get indoors at all) and have done not very much but revise for exams and eat pizza but got a massive YYFY so can't really complain.

LLTG: 8a Aand 7C
MTG: get back to reasonable bouldering and routes standard post-buggered finger
STG: Get fitter, lose couple of kilos, one-armer, front lever
STG: sort skin out - 3 weeks now that I've not been able to use first finger from a flapper (still not healed)

Mon: Extended repeaters session, 6 grip types.  Ran tough intervals session (2*football pitch x 8 and then short fast sprints.
Tues: another intervals session, not quite as tough but longer sprints - knee sore - bugger.
Weds: Wasted day driving out to a wet churnet.  Short repeaters session (7/3 for 1 min) 10 grip types
Thurs: Cratcliffe - surprised myself, did the 7A+ thing on Razor Roof and ticked T-Crack (YYFY!) - before anyone says anything it wasn't me that chalked the fuck out of it - candidate for donkey-mark hall of fame there.
Fri: Pizza and short pull-up session
Sat: more pizza, Fairly short pull-up and short deadhang session
Sun: more pizza, quick pull-up session and short repeaters (7/3 for 1 min)

will get back into training again on monday as exams are over.

[andybfreeman]

Goals - largely as before - 7C in the forest at Easter (maybe ambitious) + 8a route (cider soak) as soon as conditions allow.

M - TCA - mixed session. 2.5 hours = warm up and hard bouldering (repeats of some but nothing new) + 30 mins campussing (1-4-6 and 1-3-6)

T - Weights etc home - 'Bolton' complex x 5 with 6kg dbs. Assisted one armers taking off 9kg lowering in control - will start removing assistance next week!

W - Shortish session at TCA - 26 mins aerocap. Odds then evens on orange circuit for some emphasis on big, strong moves. Some hard(ish) bouldering while still boxed = surprisingly successful. Stroked 6 on both arms trying 1-4-6 so sacked it

Th - Stuck at work till 8.30 so opted for weights at home - Bolton complex x 5 with 6kg dbs. Assisted one armers taking off 9kg lowering in control

F - TCA session, set an aim to repate the 24 orange problems that I'd done before. Managed 16 repeats and 1 new problem.

Sa - short session managed 4 more repeats, 1 of which I'd tried and failed the night before

Su - Longer session at TCA mopping up. 3 more repeats + 2 new problems. A good weekend - repeated 23/24 problems previously completed + 3 new ones. Only one problem didn't succumb. Finished with some PE circuits.

Weight - average for week = 68.16kg = exactly the same as last week.

[205Chris]

STGs: More grit highballing
MTGs: Sport 8a

M: Nada
T: Works session. Did some circuit problems and failed miserably on some comp wall problems. Still feeling weak.
W: BMC peak area meet
T: Board session. Tried a few hard problems I'd done previously. Did better than I though given how badly I seem to be climbing at the moment.
F: Works. Did about half the purple circuit.
S: Nada
S: Nada

Still seem to be missing a bit of energy / psyche. Got a couple of trips coming up that should inspire me though.

[chris05]

STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B

M: 4.5m run, weights, theraband & core
T: swim (40l crawl), weights, theraband & core (500)
W: 4.5m run, weights, theraband & core
T: swim (40l crawl), weights, theraband & core (500)
F: rest, pub & rugby
S: 4.5m run, theraband & core (500) - then rugby and beer
S: bouldering at cratcliffe and RHS

Had a few niggles so I have taken it easy this week, just keeping up some fitness stuff. Should have got another 7A yesterday but snatched failure from the jaws of victory as I relaxed a little too soon on the top-out!

[GCW]

Short term goals
Do my local cross country (5.8km) in under 30 minutes (big ask I think)
Sort out the bad knee.
Tick something, anything, from my 2011 aims list!

Medium Term goals
Climb font 7c in 2011 (still a bit ambitious).
Continue trying to keep the weight down (aim for 83kg)- also a bit ambitious!
Do my Winter Hill run in under 43:12 (average 10kmh).
Finish off my remaining esoteric Lancs Quarry projects.


M-  Nothing.
T-  Nothing.
W-  West View with the Bearded Midget, a bit limited as most was being re-set.  Generally felt weak, no stamina.  Rubbish.
T- Nothing.
F-  Nothing.
S-  Nothing.
S-  Nothing.

Monday weigh in of 88kg.   

[ummagumma]

STG: Climb 7A by end of March

M Bouldering I/D. OAV. Meh. Shoulder was a little iffy so took off a few days.
T Rest
W Rest
T Rest
F Bouldering I/D. OAV. Trying hard problems at my max. Upping the tempo.
S Bouldering O/D. Tum. not ideal conditions. Tried two 6C+ and a 7a and got nowhere!
S Bouldering O/D. Zil. nice conditions. shortish playtime. Ticked a really nice 6B+ and lower stuff. Tried a 7A which the first move shut me down - I got close though.

4 sessions is a week is good going for me so would like to keep that up. I have to learn to give more effort on send attempts. 

[Falling Down]

STG: Need to figure out for Feb

Had a week of hard work in Kazakhstan so wasn't expecting much.

M - Nowt
T - 30 mins on treadmill, squats and pressups
W - Nowt
T - Nowt
F - Travelled back from Kazakhstan
S - Afternoon of volume bouldering at Awesome Stockport with TomTom and Galpinos. Pretty good session considering the week.
S - Hungover/Chilled out

Had quite a good indoor session on Saturday..  Hopefully working from home all week this week so should manage to train/recover every day and maybe even get outside.

[webbo]

STG
start climbing
LTG
god knows
Mon.leeds wall going okish ran out of omph fairly quickly but managed not injure myself.
Tue.nowt
Wed.rockcity.repeated all the problems i did pre injure then did the problem i injured myself on.got tired fairly quickly.
Thu.deadhanging session a bit tentive as my lower back went in to spasm warming up.
Fri.nowt.  wine and painkillers.
Sat.back inproving.decieded against climbing.deadhanging increased duration of hangs to 8 secs.weights more gains on benchpress.bike 2hrs 15 mins.
Sun.bike 2hrs 25 mins.

seem to keep damaging myself at the moment.

[slackline]

STG
start climbing
LTG
god knows
Mon.leeds wall going okish ran out of omph fairly quickly but managed not injure myself.
Tue.nowt
Wed.rockcity.repeated all the problems i did pre injure then did the problem i injured myself on.got tired fairly quickly.
Thu.deadhanging session a bit tentive as my lower back went in to spasm warming up.
Fri.nowt.  wine and painkillers.
Sat.back inproving.decieded against climbing.deadhanging increased duration of hangs to 8 secs.weights more gains on benchpress.bike 2hrs 15 mins.
Sun.bike 2hrs 25 mins.

seem to keep damaging myself at the moment.

At least you've achieved your short term goals.

[Barratt]

Monday, nowt
Tuesday, Works purple circuit
Wednesday, Routes at Edge
Thursday, nowt
Friday, nowt
Sat, Nowt
Sunday, Matrix

Getting back into it after being ill, starting to feel good again.

[apharri]

Mon: Rest

Tues: Anaerobic cap @ Edge
          Aerobic cap @ Edge

Weds: Circuits @ works. Best attempt so far on circuit. Completed on my final attempt with one slip half way through

Thurs: Rest

Fri: Rest

Sat: Anaerobic Cap
       Weights

Sun: Bouldering
        Circuits.. Feeling good agian. Managed it without the slip this times but fell off three moves from end.

[fried]

After bet with missus - STG - Touch my toes by the end of the month.

There is a trick to this and I'm not setting you up. If you go up and down quickly on your legs doing semi-squats whilst flapping your arms up and down - let loose it looks ridiculous - then after 20 secs of this I bet you can touch your toes.

It confuses the back into not tightening up.

Just tried that and gained about 3 inches, unfortunately still leaves me a couple short. Although I reckon with a five minute stretch this one's in the bag, thanks for helping me win my bet, get my prezzie/ food / money or sexual favours 

[Muenchener]

I am "recruiting" my previous "hypertrophy", though Shark tells me this is very passé these days

What? 

I was about to start doing that too. What should I do instead?

[tomtom]

STG 7B+

M: rest
T: Depot Session
W: Cheeky Almscliff trip... more slight progress on Underhand... its looking more and more like it will yield soon..
T: Depot session in the eve.. I was shattered afterwards!
F: rest
S: Logport wall. Met up with FD and Galpinos  good to meet you... again felt monstered afterwards...
S: Rest

A week of plastic and consolidation. Starting to feel stronger and lighter...

[apharri]

I am "recruiting" my previous "hypertrophy", though Shark tells me this is very passé these days

What? 

I was about to start doing that too. What should I do instead?

Depends what your goals are  ie Boulders/ Routes (any particular)? Trips planned? What have you been doing last few months? Injuries? Weaknesses?

[Muenchener]

Thanks.

I was actually largely joking, and am operating at a level where fine distinctions probably make no difference anyway.

But since you ask: current goal is onsighting sport routes in Arco at Easter. I spent November & December emphasising ARC / aerocap / volume. Am now spending January & February mostly bouldering, and in March plan to do a few weeks power endurance stuff - 4x4s, indoor redpointing etc.

... then go to Arco and crush.

The "what?!" was regarding the fact that I thought somewhere in February I ought to shift my bouldering emphasis from "problems I can do" to "problems I can't do" - "threshold" in SCC terminology. To some degree it's happening of its own accord anyway, as I run out of easy pickings on the target circuits I have set myself at local walls.

[apharri]

Thanks.

I was actually largely joking, and am operating at a level where fine distinctions probably make no difference anyway.

But since you ask: current goal is onsighting sport routes in Arco at Easter. I spent November & December emphasising ARC / aerocap / volume. Am now spending January & February mostly bouldering, and in March plan to do a few weeks power endurance stuff - 4x4s, indoor redpointing etc.

... then go to Arco and crush.

The "what?!" was regarding the fact that I thought somewhere in February I ought to shift my bouldering emphasis from "problems I can do" to "problems I can't do" - "threshold" in SCC terminology. To some degree it's happening of its own accord anyway, as I run out of easy pickings on the target circuits I have set myself at local walls.

In that case have a fantastic trip 

[Three Nine]

Anyone got tips on climbing very sharp routes without bleeding everywhere?

I hate having rubbish skin....

you mean the little ear you go to with your right hand? Try being as static as possible to it.

[chris_j_s]

Aims: UK 7a onsight, 7b+ redpoint in 2011

M:
T: Ingleton PE Circuits. Better session, warm up then twice round a 48 move circuit (~6c+/7a), failed 3rd time. Also 2x 6c circuit and 2 x 6b+ circuit.
W:
T: Ingleton PE Circuits. Still failed 3rd time round on the big circuit but getting several moves further. Also did 6x various other circuits between 6b and 6c.
F:
S: Ingleton strength session. Decided to mix things up with a more strength based session. After warm up spent 30 mins on hard problems (problems taking 4-5 goes) - then spent 45 mins on the 45 degree woody. Warmed down with 1x long 6c+/7a circuit and 1x 6b+ circuit.
S: Ingleton PE circuits.  Failed 3rd time around going for finishing jug on long 6c+/7a circuit. Then did 2x 6c ish roof circuit, 2 x 6b circuit, 2x 6b+ circuit and 2 x 6c circuit.

Thanks to a visit to the depot last week I've identified a weakness and crucially have a bit of focus and direction again. Making gains almost every session and the arms have been destroyed which seems like a good sign to me!

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Same

M: Nowt
T: General bouldering @ The Castle followed by 3 x 10 minute AeroCap sets.
W: Nowt
T: Nowt
F: 4 x 10 minute AeroCap sets on my board.
S: Nowt
S: 4 x AnCap sets @ The Works - Good hard session.

Managed to get in a fair bit of the plan while flitting between Sheffield and London. Not been able to do the 4x4's I should have done  as not had anyone to climb them with. Even if I did I doubt I would have found any free routes at the Castle...

Next week: Try and do as much of the plan as possible again.. Should be back home and back on track soon.