[jowgli]

Just wondering what the official starting holds for this problem were. On vimeo a guy does it using an undercut pinch for the left hand but then has another vid which says not cheating where he doesnt use it.

also, wanted to check the lowest bit of rock is allowed for feet.

thanks for an info....

[ferret]

just watched those 2 videos, cant see any difference between the 2 tbh, i remember its pretty straight forward what u do. deffo use that undercut to start and the hard bit is when u have to match heel to hand on the slopey break so i cant see how "cheating" the start would make much difference.
i think the video was maybe referring to something we dont know about . eg he dabbed the rock on the go before or sumat.
a non line but fun movement, enjoy 

[Johnny Brown]

Are we talking Secret Garden or Millstone here?

[slackline]

Are we talking Secret Garden or Millstone here?

I think the clue is in the thread title 

[mrjonathanr]

Right - which is it?

[grimer]

Despite the fact that vimeo has 2 videos of Zaff's Problem at Secret Garden and none at Millstone?

[Andy B]

The cheating will probably be to do with where he has his right hand on the top break. In the first video he uses the good hold just right of the actual Zaffs sloper. I can't see in the second vid whether he has changed it to the sloper to the left though.

Personally I regarded the lower footledge as out as it obviously used to be covered, but I don't know if that's an official rule.

[slackline]

Despite the fact that vimeo has 2 videos of Zaff's Problem at Secret Garden and none at Millstone?

Presumably these videos show Zaff's problem at Secret Garden and not Millstone then, hence the confusion?

@jwgli : It  would have been simple to paste them into the thread (you just paste the URL of the video from the address bar) rather than leaving it up to those who you are asking help from to have to go and search for them themselves.

[grimer]

@jwgli : It  would have been simple to paste them into the thread (you just paste the URL of the video from the address bar) rather than leaving it up to those who you are asking help from to have to go and search for them themselves.

I don't know. One of the things i use UKB for is to avoid doing any work (and i almost used the phrase 'real work' there, as if looking at UKB was kinda a job). In this case the more laborious it is to use the more it fulfils its function.

[jowgli]

thanks for the info, i think andy b is right about the 'cheating' being due to using the pocket next to the actual sloper. regarding the footledge the lower bit would make the problem easier so its probably better trying it without, then i defo can't go wrong 

[slackline]

thanks for the info, i think andy b is right about the 'cheating' being due to using the pocket next to the actual sloper. regarding the footledge the lower bit would make the problem easier so its probably better trying it without, then i defo can't go wrong 

Could you clear this up please...

Are we talking Secret Garden or Millstone here?

[Nigel]

Don't think we should get too diverted by this side issue. It is obviously the one at Secret Garden, as there is no Zaff's Problem at Millstone.

[cofe]

Could you clear this up please...

Are we talking Secret Garden or Millstone here?

this might help

 

[GCW]

Could you clear this up please...

Are we talking Secret Garden or Millstone here?

this might help

 

Shazzam!! 

[GCW]

Presumably this is a video in question:

[Andy B]

thanks for the info, i think andy b is right about the 'cheating' being due to using the pocket next to the actual sloper. regarding the footledge the lower bit would make the problem easier so its probably better trying it without, then i defo can't go wrong 

I'm not talking about the pocket as the offending hold. If you watch his first video, when he moves his right hand up from the lip he goes to a big sloping hold with a helpful ripple on it, then matches his left on the poorer, chalkier, sloper just left. For Zaff's he should have his right hand where his left goes. Pretty tight line, but that's Zaff's.

[Johnny Brown]

Where did that rule come from, Zaff never mentioned it when I've been there with him?

[uptown]

Andy's right, that's how Zaff first did it. If we're gonna have roolz for some, it'd make sense to have roolz for all.
Tbh Zaff probably doesn't actually care though. 

[jowgli]

sounds like it would be easier to go bouldering somewhere else 

[slackline]

sounds like it would be easier to go bouldering somewhere else 

Millstone perhaps? 

[Drew]

this might help

 

Beautiful irony    Incidentally this thread is the first result to come up.