[Twiglett]

Has anyone got any beta on this? I'm pretty keen to get up there and have a bash & and any none beast specific knowledge would be much appreciated.

Heard it touted as being the best 7a+ in the county so can't have it sitting in my back yard (so to speak) unticked.

Ben G

[Paul B]

Sequence is pretty obvious:

[Twiglett]

cheers Paul - nice pic's

[Paul B]

Next move isn't a pushover, you reach back over the top for a sloper then top it out.

[Twiglett]

nice one. had a quick play once about a year ago so was just wanting a bit of knowledge on the top part. Fingers crossed for decent weather at the weekend!

ps - nice looking pads man

[Paul B]

They may look nice but you'd bottom out on them as the foam was rubbish.

The top is the easy bit, coming across kind of thumb spragging in the bottom of the crack was what I found the hardest. Good luck.

[Bonjoy]

Good choice of problem, this must be the best prob I've done in the county. I climbed the lower bit totally different to Paul. Instead of starting on the slab you can start on the left side of the lower arete, take a hold at the base of the crack and rock onto the slab, that way you are already facing the correct way to layback the crack. Doing it this way I found the top to be the crux - walk feet up crack, get sloper and heelhook on arete, reach over with RH to decent sloper on top. Overall I though it was more like 7a than 7a+, but quite bold for a boulder problem.

[cofe]

Sequence is pretty obvious:

I climbed the lower bit totally different to Paul.

classic.

[Paul B]

Thats the move before the first pic, I ended up with other hand on the hold to avoid injuring the cod I had at the time.

[Bonjoy]

Come again yoot, can't work out what you're saying. Are you saying you started the same as me, then down climbed three moves to climb back up again  ?

[Paul B]

Come again yoot, can't work out what you're saying. Are you saying you started the same as me, then down climbed three moves to climb back up again  ?

Left hand arete, right hand sidepull (near the moss I think?), rock onto slab, reach up with LH into bottom of crack as RH was too borked to pull on. Que akward thumb matching due to borked fingers and high left foot. Proceded to layback...etc.

I've just re-read yours and seen you started on the LHS of the arete (not LH on arete). The slab option has got to have been easier if I pulled it off?

[Twiglett]

cheers for the info guys, i'll give both ways a go and see which works best for moi.oking forward to it, top part looks a tad spice! Looks like its planning to piss down all most of the weekend atm so am keeping the fingers crossed.

[Paul B]

yeah oranges vs. pears

[Fiend]

I've seen a group of strong and/or tall and/or bold 7b-7c climbers repeatedly fail on the top of this 

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=129031

Log's done t'Pitt and usually warms up flashing 7as, hmm. Oh this was mint conditions too.

[Johnny Brown]

Funny that, cos its piss. I blame climbing walls.

[punkpunk]

quality problem all about trusting the feet, i think i did i did a hybrid of the 2 methods mentioned above. got it on video somewhere from piss poor angle...

[benj_d]

back to life....

Wanting some beta for the top out, must have fell off it about 10 times today, as a result my left ankle hurts a lot.

With my RH in the best/highest part of the crack, my LH on the slopey arete hold, RF half way up the crack and LF on the smear on the face I reach up to the top slopey bit with my LH onto a sloper with a slight dink in it, then my RH onto a sloper on the right and I try to pad my LH further up but fail, or try to bring a LF into the crack to gain height and fail, tried all sorts really but all to no avail 

Any help? 

so frustrated since its a brilliant line and got really close so many times.

[sjw]

Not brilliant photos, but they might help. I can't remember the beta, but the lad in the last photo is about 5'5" and he did it that go, going back with his right from there. I've got some other poor photos of the topout if that hasn't t helped with the move you're stuck on. I seem to remember that he had to use a LH sloper on the top, whereas I could reach a better hold around the arete which was more positive- both methods just padding back with RH to the jug.

[Jim]

there is a smeary foothold for left foot which you can use to get your right foot higher up in the crack, then get the sloper with left hand I think and then wrap left heel high around the arete, match sloper and pull up with the heel and reach back to the jug (from hazy memory)

[benj_d]

Thanks Simon and Jim.

I was using the left smear but i hadn't thought of using my heel on the left, which might work for me, plus i think i was concentrating on padding up with the left hand when maybe i should have stuck with that sloper and padded up with the right.

Should get back sometime soon hopefully.

[Bonjoy]

Good choice of problem, this must be the best prob I've done in the county. I climbed the lower bit totally different to Paul. Instead of starting on the slab you can start on the left side of the lower arete, take a hold at the base of the crack and rock onto the slab, that way you are already facing the correct way to layback the crack. Doing it this way I found the top to be the crux - walk feet up crack, get sloper and heelhook on arete, reach over with RH to decent sloper on top. Overall I though it was more like 7a than 7a+, but quite bold for a boulder problem.